16amp socket opinions

[spaffmonkey]

Evening all.
I'm in the process of renovating my man cave and changing the electrics now I have more things to run. About 10 years ago while having our house rewired I had an armoured cable run up the garden to my shed and a basic 2 gang consumer unit fitted with plans put in place for future upgrading when required. I've now got a 5 way consumer unit fitted so I've got two lighting circuits, two 13amp socket circuits and a circuit I want to attach a 16amp socket to for my welders to plug into.
I was just going to fit a basic caravan style socket which are around £10 but then ive seen the socket with the switch on it at around £35.
Would the switched unit be a better option over a non switched option?

 

[Welderpaul]

I have the switched unit - It saves fitting a rotary isolator.

 

[Agroshield]

It is not only the price and on-off-ableness that differs between the two.

On the switched one, the plug and cable comes out horizontally and starts the depth of the box away from the wall.

On the unswitched, with the outlet downwards, the plug and cable exit in a more vertical direction and the whole thing is a lot sleeker and tucked in tighter to the wall.

 

[spaffmonkey]

I have the switched unit - It saves fitting a rotary isolator.

Would it need a rotary switch? Or is it just good practice. Only asking as you don't see switches for them at marinas and campsites that use 16amp sockets.
If it's better having a switch I'll go for the all in one unit.

 

[Welderpaul]

It's better to have a switch then you don't yank the plug out (or put it in) under load. It saves the contacts in the plug/socket.

I don't know if it's a requirement or not, but makes sense to me.

 

[minimutly]

For my own use I would never go with a switch. If the load is not on - welder switched off etc, there is no current. Pointless switch imho

 

[Agroshield]

I don't know if it's a requirement or not, but makes sense to me.

Is there something different about the yellow ones? A million sockets on 110v transformers do not have switches and they do not suffer.

 

[MetalMonkey]

No requirement for a 16A to be switched/interlocked unless it is on a caravan park. On bigger ones you start getting in to what is necessary for functional switching, for a 16A, pulling it out works fine, obviously turn off welder first is ideal...

Sometimes it is nice to have them switched, but it depends on the situation, and who you expect to be operating it.

You can get ones that point down, they don't have to come out at 90 degrees.

 

[Memmeddu]

Would it need a rotary switch? Or is it just good practice. Only asking as you don't see switches for them at marinas and campsites that use 16amp sockets.
If it's better having a switch I'll go for the all in one unit.

Here in Italy for example codes require them to be interlocking and I can't remember right now but I'm pretty sure they have to be IP67 too .
I'd rather go with those one with the switch because they offer an additional protection compared to normal sockets.
Because they can't be switched on without a plug inserted into the socket, and the plug can't go out with the switch in the ON position.

 

[Munkul]

I like all my 16 and 32 amp sockets to have a switch on them as a minimum. I know it's not required, I know it's silly for own use as you can always ensure no load when you unplug it, but it makes me feel better. Also means you can use the switch to start/stop light duty temporary things like fans or things that don't have their own switch.

I know the interlocking switch is a safety thing but personally I hate them, they're always stiff and awkward to use.

 

[spaffmonkey]

I like all my 16 and 32 amp sockets to have a switch on them as a minimum. I know it's not required, I know it's silly for own use as you can always ensure no load when you unplug it, but it makes me feel better. Also means you can use the switch to start/stop light duty temporary things like fans or things that don't have their own switch.

I know the interlocking switch is a safety thing but personally I hate them, they're always stiff and awkward to use.

What type of switches do you use if not the interlocking type. I have been looking and seen some people have used a cooker style wall switch instead of the rotary type.

 

[GRW]

Personally I will fit a basic non-switched / interlocked socket in my shed. (Currently my 180A Oxford is on a 13A). It's embedded practice to ensure an y tool or alliance is switched off before plugging in - I don't need the extra faff and size of a switched version (esp. when the circuit feeding the socket is 30mA RCD protected and on its own MCB on the Shed Dis Board).

 

[Turbo]

I know the interlocking switch is a safety thing but personally I hate them, they're always stiff and awkward to use.

And if you get a pet gorilla who doesn't know you have to switch it off before trying to remove the plug they will yank at the plug until the whole thing jams up and you can neither switch it off or remove the plug, meaning replacing an expensive socket.

Personally I'd fit a separate isolator and socket, probably cheaper than the interlock type and more reliable.

 

[Turbo]

Personally I will fit a basic non-switched / interlocked socket in my shed. (Currently my 180A Oxford is on a 13A). It's embedded practice to ensure an y tool or alliance is switched off before plugging in - I don't need the extra faff and size of a switched version (esp. when the circuit feeding the socket is 30mA RCD protected and on its own MCB on the Shed Dis Board).

My pickhill oil cooled welder has no on/off switch fitted so if you have no isolator on your socket the only way to switch it off is to pull out the plug!

 

[brightspark]

its a matter of preference only . pulling the plug is classed as isolation

 

[jo1010]

What type of switches do you use if not the interlocking type. I have been looking and seen some people have used a cooker style wall switch instead of the rotary type.

You could use a suitable rated double pole isolation switch upstream of the commando socket - I once had a 32amp commando socket fitted like that - there was so much friction in the connector it was always a struggle to disengage it...knowing the power supply was off made me feel safer!

 

[dholdi]

I have the one on the right fixed directly to the garage consumer unit.
My arms arent long enough to weld and unplug it at the same time

 

[dobbslc]

I know the interlocking switch is a safety thing but personally I hate them, they're always stiff and awkward to use.

They are a right PITA on site because all the morons come to London to work and they just rip the plugs out or smash them in thus wreaking the socket.
The electrical manager for a large company I work for that rhymes with "pace" demands the interlocking sockets are used but fails to realise they are actually more dangerous as they're always damaged!

The switched socket you posted in your OP is what you want.

 

[brightspark]

if its wired back to the db just use the mcb to isolate on and off if required

 

[GRW]

My pickhill oil cooled welder has no on/off switch fitted so if you have no isolator on your socket the only way to switch it off is to pull out the plug!

Bet you don't unplug it while you're welding though!
Seriously though, it'd be a better idea to put an on/off switch on your welder front panel.