SIP / Cosmo Mods

[shenion]

Most equipment treats power as both were live, hence markings L1 and L2. So, polarity does not matter.

In many cases they may both be live as it may be 2 lines out of 3-phase or here in the US, both lines are live for a 220V setup.

 

[rtbcomp]

Good feedback there - So is there a convention for L1 and L2 in the way of connecting one to live and
the other to neutral?

Not that I'm aware of, it could be that L1 & L2 are just manufacturers' internal notation. I've just had a look at a few washing machine supressors and there's no consistency.

I've seen L1,L2,N1 & N2 on two pole switches to show that L1 & L2 is one circuit and N1 & N2 the other.

 

[Elnino]

I guess it could be reversed but i am just going on how mine was wired. I must admit, i was a little confused as to why they were switching the neutral and not the active. It's odd but perhaps there is some reason for it.

This thread/mod only really covers single phase units so I was associating the wiring diagram on these units.

 

[Fixer]

This ok?

A single, 24v 100va tranformer is £12 here - http://www.jmsonline.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=33&osCsid=d4f61c594583f8624ea6a6f77265d4f0

will it be fine for the drive? I will order the rectifier and connectors and wire from maplin as per the original post...

 

[Elnino]

Looks ok to me

 

[bump]

Yep, looks fine to me too.

 

[rtbcomp]

A single, 24v 100va tranformer is £12 here - http://www.jmsonline.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=33&osCsid=d4f61c594583f8624ea6a6f77265d4f0

will it be fine for the drive? I will order the rectifier and connectors and wire from maplin as per the original post...

Bit of a difference in price!

 

[Fixer]

Thanks chaps...I will order with confidence

The whole upgrade should come in under £20

edit - not quite...with vat and delivery all came to £35 but I'm happy.

 

[Elnino]

My mod came to AU$17 - can't do much better than that!

 

[Fixer]

17AU$ = £8... wow thats cheap!

 

[Fixer]

Well Ive fitted the transformer and rectifier and wired it all up but there were a few things that didn't quite match the previous 2 mods shown here in this thread..

Its done but I'm not turning it on yet, need to check a couple of things over first - any help would be great, please.

1. My transformer has different connections to the other guys. Mine has just 4. 2 labelled 240 and 2 labelled 24. they are in a row like 24 24 240 240 so I connected +24 -24 +240 -240. IS THAT RIGHT?? I wouldn't be +24 -24 -240 +240 or -24 +24 +240 -240 would it? I did what seemed normal but I dunno for sure.

2. My transformer has no earth. Its chassis is earthed to the welder chassis I supose by the self tappers i screwed it down with IS THAT OK?

3. Rather than add cable of my own, I connected the machine to the rectifier with the wires that were going to the welders + and - THAT OK?

Any help much appreciated.

 

[rtbcomp]

1) As long as you have mains connected to the 240 tags and you take the 24v off the 24 tags you'll be OK, the +/- markings don't really matter here, they would be used if you were connecting two transformers together to get the phasing right.

2) I'd make an earth wire to go from one of the screws fixing the transformer to another screw somewhere on the chassis. Clean the metal under the tags. That would be a bit more reliable than using the fixing screws on their own.

3) Not quite sure what you mean.

 

[Fixer]

Thanks! what i meant about question 3 was that i just diconnected the wires going from the motor and green header to the welders + and - and connected them to my bridge ouputs - SO i'm using the wire that was already their as oposed to adding any. Thanks again.

 

[rtbcomp]

As long as you get the wires the right way round and they're not connected to anything else in the bowels of the machine you should be OK.

 

[bump]

I'm amazed that there was enough slack cable!

 

[Fixer]

Anyway...I did the earth as you say and made up and fitted the roller tie (even sprayed it black lol)
I also noticed that the clear gas tube was completely crushed by the holders in the chassis so I bent them out and now it fine.
I haven't got my gas cylinder yet so I tried it out using the fluxcored wire it came with on a sheet of 1mm steel and all is well - it works fine and once you get going the speed seems fairly stable but it still seems to me that when the feed comes up against the slightest resistance (like bending the cable slightly as you move the torch along) causes it to drag and you hear the motor whine pitch down then up as it overcomes the initial increase in load

Either I have something draging on the feed system that needs fixing or the motor/gearing is not upto it. It can feed very quickly indeed but with insufficient torque to keep it consistent it seems...maybe changing the pinion is the next move. I didn't realy look at it while doing the transformer but it must be possible...

bump - I cut them at the point that they connected to the big square plate thingy and the big tranformer - didn't undo the nuts - just chopped them close to the eye things that are bolted down. This gave plenty if you free it from the tieclip bundle.


edited and reedited because of my stupidity

 

[rtbcomp]

I'm sure it is geared, but you can tell by looking - if the centre of the motor shaft does not line up with the driving roller then it is geared.

Is the liner in good condition? A worn or rusty wire/liner will cause drag. Avoid loops in the torch.

 

[malcolm]

A good steel liner will stiffen up the torch to prevent the nasty bends causing drag. If it's more than a year old with a plastic liner then change to a steel one. The motor seems perfectly good with a steel liner.

 

[Fixer]

Its a brand new machine, it came with a steel liner but anyway, problem solved - the tension was realy hard on the top roller (factory, not me) but I have the brace fitted so it grips fine without any further pressure from the screw, I undid it completely. I also loosened the sprung spool retainer and that made it spin easier.
I knew all about the machines problems and fixes before I bought it a week or 2 ago - I went for it anyway because I wanted the spec it had and resolved to mod it from new.

I also opened the torch and found a cable tie was crushing the gas line there also and stressing the wire liner so I removed it.

It seems totaly ok now realy.
I rethought what I said bout gears after looking at it

 

[BlaydonBodger]

Greetings folks, I have a sip migmate pro 170 turbo and I have done the mods described by bump. but I have a problem.

Hairyone mentioned it in his post - when i powered up after completing the mods the wire feed is on all the time.

Heres the catch (i think) the black conector with RST printed in white on the side in the pics is different on my machine.

My machine has a similar connector but with only two terminals and it only says RS on it closer inspection revealed that the bit with T on it ie the top terminal has been snapped off.

Now this machine has never been opened up and it was bought new. It seems odd to me that this connector is like this. I will post some pics if it is ant help.


Does anyone have any experience with this type of machine comparing the pics the pcb is similar but not quite the same.

I realise that the wire feed needs to kick in as the trigger is pressed but not being electronicaly minded could use some help.