Martin Hocking
Member
- Messages
- 370
- Location
- Norfolk
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,697
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Note the use of the inner bog roll to keep paint off the hoses, it didn't work
Get a roll of decent tin foil. Wrap it around and it stays there. No tape needed.
- Messages
- 13,414
- Location
- England
Not sure what this, they tried pressing it apart with 2 ball bearings left inside, leaving 2 massive dents and a distorted flange.
Not our usual type of thing, but for a firm round the corner.
Built up, and re machined as near as possible. Not perfect, but close, back to them within 24hrs. Slow running and agricultural, so will do the trick.
Not our usual type of thing, but for a firm round the corner.
Built up, and re machined as near as possible. Not perfect, but close, back to them within 24hrs. Slow running and agricultural, so will do the trick.
RaceDiagnostics
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,143
New garden furniture arrived with a large chip hanging off. Easier and quicker to fix than make a complaint.
sako243
Member
- Messages
- 3,467
- Location
- My mansion in Wales
Finally after 18 months the rebuild is finally happening after I got the conrods back from honing.
There's a chance I might be able to finish it tomorrow then need to wait for a torque converter seal to arrive and I can call a neighbour with a big telehandler to help lift it back in to the engine bay.
There's a chance I might be able to finish it tomorrow then need to wait for a torque converter seal to arrive and I can call a neighbour with a big telehandler to help lift it back in to the engine bay.
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 622
- Location
- Maine, USA
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,606
- Location
- UK
Not all today, but the over the last week or so. There's a heat shield that covers the exhaust on the Kawasaki Mule, the idea is to stop you burning yourself if you have the tipping bed up. It was rusty and broken.
Now welded up and dressed back and 3 coats of black heat resistant paint. this is during dressing it back.
The roof was rusty, as was the windscreen surround
All took back to bare metal, 2 coats of epoxy primer and top coats. I changed the roof colour from grey to a RAL colour close to the colour Kawasaki use for the rest of it.
Spot lamps front and back, Not sure if I needed to keep the beacon but saves welding holes up.
The light board at the back of the cab was rusty and some of the light fittings were cracked
I bought new LED lights, cleaned up the rust, more epoxy primer and turned the board upside down. This way there is a natural dip to lean fence posts and other long things on. I can then use the light guards to secure them with bungees or rope. I put some edging on the top to stop the paint being broken and let the rust back in.
I'm on with the wiring this weekend, I've had two new tyres fitted, I've painted two wheels, two to go. Then its off for a full service and an MOT before I change the tax class to light agricultural and it becomes MOT exempt. The MOT is purely to make sure its roadworthy, lots of hills around here an being CVT, the belt comes off and you lose engine braking on idle. Not sure if the mule will fit on the rolling road to test the brakes, but there's other ways I believe.
Now welded up and dressed back and 3 coats of black heat resistant paint. this is during dressing it back.
The roof was rusty, as was the windscreen surround
All took back to bare metal, 2 coats of epoxy primer and top coats. I changed the roof colour from grey to a RAL colour close to the colour Kawasaki use for the rest of it.
Spot lamps front and back, Not sure if I needed to keep the beacon but saves welding holes up.
The light board at the back of the cab was rusty and some of the light fittings were cracked
I bought new LED lights, cleaned up the rust, more epoxy primer and turned the board upside down. This way there is a natural dip to lean fence posts and other long things on. I can then use the light guards to secure them with bungees or rope. I put some edging on the top to stop the paint being broken and let the rust back in.
I'm on with the wiring this weekend, I've had two new tyres fitted, I've painted two wheels, two to go. Then its off for a full service and an MOT before I change the tax class to light agricultural and it becomes MOT exempt. The MOT is purely to make sure its roadworthy, lots of hills around here an being CVT, the belt comes off and you lose engine braking on idle. Not sure if the mule will fit on the rolling road to test the brakes, but there's other ways I believe.
- Messages
- 22,268
- Location
- Birmingham
I rebound a book on Meccano models. it originally had a U shaped plastic channel, but the pages fell out if you tried to read them, and 200 pages in the wrong order would have made some contractions that Heath Robinson was proud of. I thought it would be fitting if the new binding looked like Meccano, and while looking for some stainless steel sheet to make it from, I decided to make it from old Jubilee clips as the are 1/2" wide.
I did look of youtube for videos about drilling holes in paper, what a waste of time, they all seem to make a mess of it. I just clamped the book between on one the "Meccano" bindings and MDF baseboard and drilled the 5mm hole with a jobber drill in a pillar drill at 1000 rpm, and clearing the paper swarf every 2 or 3mm. it worked well, and the holes were cleanly drilled. much better than the Youtube videos where they would burn the paper drilling it or just ripping holes though it as it wasn't clamped, or the drill was hand held.
and used these screw/rivets to hold it together, so the pages can still be removed to copy them.
I did look of youtube for videos about drilling holes in paper, what a waste of time, they all seem to make a mess of it. I just clamped the book between on one the "Meccano" bindings and MDF baseboard and drilled the 5mm hole with a jobber drill in a pillar drill at 1000 rpm, and clearing the paper swarf every 2 or 3mm. it worked well, and the holes were cleanly drilled. much better than the Youtube videos where they would burn the paper drilling it or just ripping holes though it as it wasn't clamped, or the drill was hand held.
and used these screw/rivets to hold it together, so the pages can still be removed to copy them.
Silver Belt Rivets Screws Nickel Plated 6 - 70mm Leather Craft Book Binding UK | eBay
Rod Length: 6mm to 70mm. -Material: Nickel Plated Steel. -The capacity of the binding screw is the distance in between the two heads when closed. -Each unit contains: 1 flat cap stud and 1 screw. -Colour: Silver / Gold.
www.ebay.co.uk
Bandit 600 came in, apparently it was running fine one month ago but someone has diagnosed spark failure as to why it doesn't run now..
Hey ho!.
Stripped and ultrasonic cleaned carbs, cleaned all jets and fitted short rebuild kits (no Keyster Kits available unfortunately).
Had to get creative with the cleaning and hand lapped some new fuel needles in.
The bike was in great condition, fuel system was a complete mess..
Personally I can't see how it was running fine a month back but what do I know?..
Hey ho!.
Stripped and ultrasonic cleaned carbs, cleaned all jets and fitted short rebuild kits (no Keyster Kits available unfortunately).
Had to get creative with the cleaning and hand lapped some new fuel needles in.
The bike was in great condition, fuel system was a complete mess..
Personally I can't see how it was running fine a month back but what do I know?..
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 12,945
- Location
- CX near Chesterfield
A few years ago I did a Divvy 600 to sell for a mate. It had stood for two years and the green in the float bowls smelt like gloss paint. I bought some carbs on eBay and made one good set out of the two lots. Somebody on the Divvy forum bought the other bits off me for what I'd paid for the spare carbs. 
JMS1972
Member
- Messages
- 1,208
- Location
- NW Leicestershire, UK
More electronics shenanigans!
I bought contrller board and power driver board as spares for my Denford CNC machines as they turned up on eBay cheap.
There was a reason they were cheap! Neither board worked.
So the power board DC-DC converter wasn't working correctly. It takes 24-40V in and outputs 5v and +/-12V.
12V rails were very low and the 5V had a load of ripple.
I don't really have a clue with Analogue so I got the thermal camera out to see if anything was amiss.
The inductor on the right (at 37 degrees) eventually got up to 70degrees and one of the diodes was also toasty.
I thought the diode might be shorted out so cut one leg. This reduced the inductor temperature but the didn't fix the 12V supplies.
I managed to find an application note for the IC L4960 and the only thing connected after each diode is a smoothing capacitor. So after a lot of thought (very difficult!)
I tried testing the caps in circuit. +5V and +12V caps were okay but the -12V cap was shorted out. There was no external issues just totally dead. I didn't have a 220uF 16V but I did have a 470uF 25V which did the trick.
Not axial either so it's ugly but it works and 5V ripple much reduced as a side effect. All the channels are tied together so I think issues on one had an effect on the others.
Really chuffed as it's way outside of my comfort zone. First proper use of the TC01 thermal camera too so it's finally paid for itself!
I bought contrller board and power driver board as spares for my Denford CNC machines as they turned up on eBay cheap.
There was a reason they were cheap! Neither board worked.
So the power board DC-DC converter wasn't working correctly. It takes 24-40V in and outputs 5v and +/-12V.
12V rails were very low and the 5V had a load of ripple.
I don't really have a clue with Analogue so I got the thermal camera out to see if anything was amiss.
The inductor on the right (at 37 degrees) eventually got up to 70degrees and one of the diodes was also toasty.
I thought the diode might be shorted out so cut one leg. This reduced the inductor temperature but the didn't fix the 12V supplies.
I managed to find an application note for the IC L4960 and the only thing connected after each diode is a smoothing capacitor. So after a lot of thought (very difficult!)
I tried testing the caps in circuit. +5V and +12V caps were okay but the -12V cap was shorted out. There was no external issues just totally dead. I didn't have a 220uF 16V but I did have a 470uF 25V which did the trick.
Not axial either so it's ugly but it works and 5V ripple much reduced as a side effect. All the channels are tied together so I think issues on one had an effect on the others.
Really chuffed as it's way outside of my comfort zone. First proper use of the TC01 thermal camera too so it's finally paid for itself!
dobbslc
Member
- Messages
- 12,009
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I tried to start the TRX today but it wasn't running on both cylinders, left side was spitting flames and backfiring badly,
I stripped the carbs off and got that horrible stink of stale fuel
It needs a good service anyway so I'll fit new plugs and do the oil etc, I'm hoping the carbs are not like the ones above!
I've had to order a new 18mm spark plug socket as I can't find one, I don't know how I did the plugs before
I've also ordered a set of JIS screwdrivers as I don't want to mess up any carb screws.
The Tourmax carb rubbers I fitted a good few years ago still look good so I'm pleased with that.
I'll rebalance the carbs and reset the TPS as that makes a big difference on one of these.
I stripped the carbs off and got that horrible stink of stale fuel
It needs a good service anyway so I'll fit new plugs and do the oil etc, I'm hoping the carbs are not like the ones above!
I've had to order a new 18mm spark plug socket as I can't find one, I don't know how I did the plugs before
I've also ordered a set of JIS screwdrivers as I don't want to mess up any carb screws.
The Tourmax carb rubbers I fitted a good few years ago still look good so I'm pleased with that.
I'll rebalance the carbs and reset the TPS as that makes a big difference on one of these.
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,386
- Location
- Kent, UK
I've done that many times. My Bandit would begin to get difficult to start every 6-12 months then over the next month go all the way to won't start at all (from cold, would always start when hot). eventually I did a lonmg post for the Bandit forum on how to strip and clean them and many people have followed it over the years.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 12,945
- Location
- CX near Chesterfield
Before you try to undo the screws put the driver head in and give them a good tap with a small hammer, it helps to break any fuzz round the threads and they come out a lot easier.
- Messages
- 13,414
- Location
- England
Hopefully fixed anyway.
Joint between plastic and aluminium box gutter had failed.
Decided to make an aluminium section to fit nicely inside, with ogee section for plastic joiner to clip onto properly.
I'd love to have welded it up, but would damage the insulation etc underneath, so opted for a 300mm overlap, and a whole tube of tiger seal.
Not a very good colour match but it'll weather in.
Joint between plastic and aluminium box gutter had failed.
Decided to make an aluminium section to fit nicely inside, with ogee section for plastic joiner to clip onto properly.
I'd love to have welded it up, but would damage the insulation etc underneath, so opted for a 300mm overlap, and a whole tube of tiger seal.
Not a very good colour match but it'll weather in.
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 4,853
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
Now that's ^^^ a proper electrical service panel.The last 3 days have been spent at @Cato new unit installing a few! sockets, I think I'm getting too old for all that conduit threading
View attachment 456806
Also sorted out a few other issues that had been left such as a live roll of cable in the kitchen area.
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 4,853
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
The hinge was 6" high to provide a leg in the middle of the tail gate for ground bearing support.
However, when closed up, this put the top section 12" behind the other.
So, today, working between the raindrops, I re-did the pivot point, left the one leg at 6", for ground bearing,
will add a pivoting "ski" there in the original hole.
However, when closed up, this put the top section 12" behind the other.
So, today, working between the raindrops, I re-did the pivot point, left the one leg at 6", for ground bearing,
will add a pivoting "ski" there in the original hole.
