reversing output polarity of Snapmig 130 Turbo, or will it run backwards or blowup?

Was thinking of fitting a couple of small "Dinze" sockets to the front of my SnapMig 130 Turbo, Which is a rebadged version of the Cebora Pocket Turbo 130.

Taking the torch wire out through the front of the welder through the strain relief thats used for the earth cable and fitting a dinze plug to it and another plug to the earth cable.

So I'd have a pair of sockets, + and -, a removeable earth cable and I could change the polarity of the unit so I can change from MIG/MAG to MOG (gas to gasless)

I've attached a copy of the wiring diagram

Was confident until I realised it was a 1 wire torch, would this blow the welder or make the wire feed run backwards?

Is the feasable or not?

the main problem lies in the welder only having a one wire switch, so if I reverse the polarity of the torch it will send a negative signal back to the PCB instead of a positive one thinking either

A. fit a euro socket, torch and gas solinoid then I can wire up the torch and earth clamp after the switch so the PCB always gets the correct positive signal

B. Add another switch to the torch I have, run a seccond wirup the tube and fit a momentary switch so its under the trigger and wire it how I'd wire a euro torch.

C. fit a single throw double pole switch to swap the feed for the switch over, need to work that one out, came to me whilst bored at work might not work, shold have did a wiring diagram when I thought of it forgotten how it was going to work now.

Right been figuring things out in my head and looking at various circuit diagrams

This should work , need to get out my meter and do some tests then hopefully start ordering parts on wednesdsay.

to carry out the conversion I'll need a two wire switch rather than how the current cebora torch switch connects the pcb to the torch + So I think I'll fit a binzel/euro socket, and two small dinze sockets to the front of the machine for changing polarity.

I could just add a seperate 2 pin switch to the cebora torch though, just need to check how much current goes through it first, then alter the torch handle and fit a momentary so that the trigger presses on it.

Looking at it if I fit a euro torch I know I'll need a gas solenoid but the terminals on the PCB are doubbled up so I could just crimp mini lucas connectors on to the wires for the solenoid and euro socket so hopefully the whole conversion should look factory when its done and be very easy to remove if for some bizare reasion I'd want to change it back to standard.

this is how mine is currently, still waiting for the euro torch parts to arrive before I can complete the upgrades.

Added a better fan for cooling
Did the Cap Mod to better smooth out the arch
added solenoid valve

my unit is an Astro Power Mig 130 but as you can see very similar except for the rotary switch and this one is 110 volts.

From your diagram everything should work properly when reversing polarity.

This is a diagram of how mine is.

C1 is a 100000 uF Capacitor
R1 is a 50 Ohm 25W Resistor
C2 is a 100uF Cap

R1 is used to bleed the Capacitor after power is released. The second Bridge Rectifier is needed to isolate the wire feed motor, otherwise it will run very fast. C2 simply smooths the current to the motor.
The gas solenoid I'm using is 120volt, but yours you'll need a 220v.


www.digikey.com

565-3323-ND 100000 uF Capacitor
GBJ604-FDI-ND Bridge Rectifier
338-1366 3” Cap. Bracket
493-1081-ND 100uF Cap
KAL2550F-ND 50 Ohm 25W Resistor


For the Cap Mod, I got the information from this thread
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=33848