Celly Spray Technique

Championship White · Jun 1, 2011

Could I get some advice on how to spray the celly, I've been told to put on a light coat, let it get tacky and then put on a heavy coat. Do I need more than one coat? Around how long should I leave it inbetween coats?

Any advice from those experienced in the mystical art of paint spraying is much appreciated.

dannychapman · Jun 1, 2011

im not the expert and im sure someone will be along soon. my experience is thin coats are better the thick ones. i put 4 thin coats on as a thick coat could or would run. i suggest setting your gun up using cardboard as a test panel and then once you done that and layed down your 1st coat leave for 10-15 min between coats and the last coat 75% thinners and 25% paint this will melt the paint and flow together. but as i said im no expert but it worked for me

ajlelectronics · Jun 1, 2011

Mist coat yes, then multiple light coats, allowed to flash off inbetween. Heavy coats will cause you nothing but trouble. Final coat, very thin, about 75% thinners.

dannychapman · Jun 1, 2011

ajelectrics yours always fast lol i think most of spraying is down to the gun set up being right

big patto · Jun 1, 2011

Hi, all i ever sprayed was celly, and the basics are as said but i used to lay on two or three coats 10mins flash off then leave to dry block sand then build up like that. celly seems to like light but quite a few coats this way you build up the body of paint then like said the last coat very thin and wet on wet leave to airdry then block sand and buff up and you will get a brill shine, celly is hard work but the finish is worth it.

Championship White · Jun 1, 2011

Thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for!

dannychapman · Jun 1, 2011

so let me get this straight you can block sand and buff a flat colour but just compound mettalic??

ajlelectronics · Jun 1, 2011

Metallic HAS to have a clearcoat, which you can then flat and compound in the normal way if you didn't get the finish you were hoping for from the gun.

big patto · Jun 1, 2011

You cannot flat a base coat mettalic it has to be clearcoated first or you will end up with dark and light patches all over because the metal moves with the wet and dry basicaly you are knocking the top of the metal in all directions. solid colour is a different matter this can be blocked before clearcoat and can then be blocked after for better results

dannychapman · Jun 1, 2011

i phoned my paint supplier and he said i have a single stage metalic and then he wont on to saying usually you dont put a clear coat on it just compound then wax. he did say if i want to put a clear on then i can but its ok to just compound. (nu-agane paints)

pedrobedro · Jun 1, 2011

I've never thinned more than the recommended 50/50 for any of the coats of paint and never had any problems with getting a finish. The metallic I've used with clear has a lot coarser metallic particles. I always spray the coats in quick succession and use good quality thinners for a good shine, not the £5 for 5 litres stuff I get for primer and gun cleaning.

jaykay · Jun 1, 2011

listen to pedro,he has it right.
the paint your using is not meant to be lacquered.
i always do a stickt first coat,then build the colour,then go wet on wet.
works fine.
i have found nu-agane will tell you what you want to hear.

the snooper · Jun 1, 2011

im with pedro when i used to use celly always thinned 50/50 and you need to learn just how much to apply without getting runs, spraying many thin coates is a waste of time and thinners you just need to learn how to get the paint on with the required finish.
make sure you have a good thinner aswell not cheap tinted stuff.
even if you do get a run dont worrk they can be flatted out and polished

Championship White · Jun 2, 2011

I'll experiment on the exterior panels but I'd prefer to play it safe on he engine bay as it's such a pain to flat back.

When people say wet on wet I guess you mean spraying again immediately after a coat when the paint is still wet?

jaykay · Jun 2, 2011

correct, the idea is to keep it wet,i.e glossy.

Championship White · Jun 2, 2011

Thanks for all the help, for spraying an awkward engine bay does anyone have any pearls of wisdom?

steveo3002 · Jun 2, 2011

id use a mini gun on a engine bay

Championship White · Jun 2, 2011

Yeh I was wondering about that, I'll give it a crack with my touch up gun (0.8mm) then shall I?

Edit: Sprayed front panel only for a test. Worked well, needed ALOT of refills! :laughing:

Chickenjohn · Jun 2, 2011

ajlelectronics said:
Mist coat yes, then multiple light coats, allowed to flash off inbetween. Heavy coats will cause you nothing but trouble. Final coat, very thin, about 75% thinners.

I do it like this! Leave about 10 mins between coats. You will need 4-5 full coats to get a decent film build if you want to wet flat and polish. Less if happy with the gun finish.

It is only a good idea to attempt a wetter thick glossy coat(s) of paint if you are an experienced painter painting a dark colour. If you are inexperienced and painting light colours (white, yellow etc) then you will be better off with more thin coats and wet flatting/ polishing to get the shine otherwise you are likely to get runs and curtains if you apply the paint too wet. And this is harder to deal with than a little bit of orange peel.

BRODTuning · Jun 2, 2011

personally i mix 60:40 with standard thinners ,spray one light coat and then a thicker coat and a third if needed. its not too hard you will get the feel for it ,just use a 50 50 overlap and get nice coverage and make sure to do all the edges and bits you cant see first

Celly Spray Technique

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