As Hitch says, i had a bash at making one a while back.
It was pretty straight forward, my plan was to machine the wheels but it seemed to be too much grief so i bought them from a firm in this country called "justin Baker"
There is plenty of info on "metalmeet" about english wheels.
The trickiest bit was deciding which mechanism to use to adjust the pressure on the wheel.
HI
your project looks real nice ,I started 1 last year made from H beam but the flexing was terrible so have started again using 4x4x1/2inch section mitered and welded into traditional C frame shape (will post pics later) just looking for
advice before I take it too far and it ends up useless
Mine is made from 120 x 60 x 6mm box.
A certain amount of flex is good IMHO. When taking out the lumps & bumps it
rides over them better. If the frame had no movement at all the sheet would stop dead when you hit a bump.
Think of driving a car over a ploughed field if it had no suspension.
Even the proper cast ones have some movement, and the bearings are usually mounted in lead.
I made my wheel to make the bodywork for my scratch built "Seven".
Pic of the nose at the panel triming stage (prior to welding) below.
Lovely front end, the sort of thing that makes you want to 'have a go'..too many other projects on though or I would get something for a winter project.
That looks a very large "C" in relation to the size of the material.
Mine has a vertical gap of 840mm. 7 times the size of the box section.
I built mine for use on ally. I note a car in your pic that I assume is steel.
If yours ends up with a tad too much flex then all is not lost. Another "c"
inside the big "C" would stiffen it no end, effectively making the frame 8" x 4" box.
hello there, looks nice that wheel of yours. If I can be so bald to suggest one thing, cause I see that this will flex.
I would suggest that you set a flat steel bar maybe 100 mm on the inside of the frame to stiffen it. This can be either waltzed in to a roughly shape or cute in sections from a slate. Point is that it is not the with of the steel but the depth that makes the strength. I had a plan earlier to build one but that was of to half moon's if you want and flatten steel bars between. so that the moon (es) makes the strength to the wheel and the flatten bar makes it ridgid to the steel plate movement.
Torsional stiffness is the bigger issue. Fabricated wheels (or at least the few i've played with) are typically less stiff (and a LOT lighter) than the big cast iron Edwards jobby at the workshop but in of itself not that big a deal i.e. the pressure adjuster may need to be turned a touch further for a given pressure. If the frame is springy enough to twist in use then you can get problems as the relationship between the wheels moves more i.e. as you push and pull the sheet through the machine the pressure fluctuates and you get erratic results. If it's not too bad (within reason) you can wheel for longer at lighter pressure settings...
Hi
thanks for all the advice food for thought,the car is a classic mini with a 3inch roof chop and is going to become a hatchback as it is along term project i intend
to make as much of tooling as possible and this is to shape the rear hatch
If you make your own wheels Joe then you may well find that the shape of the bottom anvil is the key.
I have seen several DIY wheels on websites that suggest grinding a flat on a spherical bearing.
I tried this and didn't have much success.
I have since found that the shape should not be a single rad with a flat, but a twin rad with a flat in the middle,
if that makes sence.
read about adding flats on the metalmeet forum ,tried it, was badly witness marked put it down to having large bottom anvils, but kind of get what you mean i have limited access to a cnc lathe so will try what you suggest