Joton-Jotamastic primer questions.

Weldinator · May 28, 2012

Jotun-Jotamastic primer questions.

Before i purchase some of the Jotun Jotamastic epoxy primer, i have a few questions.

It says below that its iso free

is all Jotun epoxy 80 iso free ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jotun-Jot...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item2a11805e20

It also says > Can be applied to slightly damp and rusty steel. Ideal for use on boats, off-shore installations, tanks, heavy plant and machinery.

I didn't realise it can cope with rusty steel, should be good for the unreachable rust. Although it is an ebay listing not Jotun themselves.

1) Which one of these versions of Jotamastic 80/87 would be the easiest and best to use, and whats the main difference between them both ?

2) Would any sort of solvent good enough to clean this primer off the tools etc ?

3) Would it be cheaper to buy from Jotun themselves or shall i go for ebay ?

4) How do you guys brush/roller it on to gain the right thickness thats required ?

steveo3002 · May 28, 2012

the 80 /87 refers to the solids content (so i was told) so 87 will leave more product on the job

gun wash /celly thinners cleans it up as long as it hasnt been left to go off

i go with 2 good coats , seems plenty thick enough but no way to tell without a thickness gauge

make sure you order the right hardner , summer harnder needs to be above 10 degs for the whole curing time , so winter might still be best if its small bits

Chipper · May 28, 2012

As above really. It's iso-free, you can/should check spec sheets yourself re safety issues like iso's. Being waterproof it will go on rust OK and seal it. Of course get as much gone as poss.
Worth buying a bag of el cheapo brushes from ebay and bin rather than trying to clean them. Sorry kittens & bunnies & everything, but it's sticky old stuff.

1: 87
2: normal gunwash / celly thinners
3: you'll have to look!
4: brush roller or spray, I use 2k thinners but they do their own one. Haven't rollered it, doesn't seem much point as a brush is needed anyway.

steveo3002 · May 28, 2012

yeah you might as well brush it , brush marks wont show under that rapture stuff

Weldinator · May 28, 2012

Great, thanks for the information with regards to this product.

I thought about going for the 87 after a good read of their technical data sheet. Im glad i can use good solvents to clean things if i have too. I already have plenty of chuck-able brushes/rollers etc.

I will roller it on the large flat areas then use the brush for the tight corners etc, that would be the quickest way for me.

I have some of the 2k thinners that come in a yellow/purple tin, so that will be handy not having to buy more products.

Paints for trade seems the cheapest so far, http://www.paints4trade.com/index.asp?function=CART&ECD=53&productid=

In this weather it looks like the summer hardener is the right way to go, even when it cools down next week it will still be around 18 degrees mark. Although im planning on painting it this weekend after preparing it at night all this week.

norsa · May 28, 2012

so whats this rapture tackle?

steveo3002 · May 28, 2012

upol truck bed liner..

norsa · May 28, 2012

thanks steve, been off the radar for a few years and would hate to miss out on pioneering stuff that actually doeswhatitsaysonthetin..

steveo3002 · May 28, 2012

yeah worth remembering incase you get a pick up truck

Weldinator · May 28, 2012

Jotun not Joton :lol .

It's also worth remembering how much abuse pick up trucks get

When it's applied i should be able to do a skateboard slide with it on the barriers :laughing:

Iv now spoken to Jotun and was told it has to be cured before the urethane paint (ie rapture) is applied, in this weather i should apply it after two days of curing with the summer hardener.

I have to remove the old sealant too which makes it harder. I'd say i have to remove 25% of this dodgy stonechip all in all, with all that its best to get all of it sorted now.

I'll get there in the end with out the use of an air fed mask :laughing:

Weldinator · May 28, 2012

Sorry guys, ive got three more questions :whistle:

There are lots of nook and crannies that has loads of the light brown original sealant. Once its all ready, would it be ok to apply this primer when there maybe bits of Galvanising/sealant/stonechip underneath ? (Im talking about very small amounts between floor pan and sill areas mostly)

It would take much more time to try and scrape it all away, even then there will still be tiny amounts in places.

Also what do i do where the floor meets the inner wings etc, where there is new stonechip and old sealant present ?

Should i put the first coat lightly then the second one thicker ?

Any suggestions on how i should tackle this please ?

Chipper · May 29, 2012

It'll go over those but of course the better the grip it has the better it'll last. Coats, if brushing the first coat will be OK but still need another. Don't worry about how thick each one is, just aim for good coverage.
It's good stuff. Been under my car just now again after 5+ months daily use on rough roads round here, couldn't find a single chipped or failed bit.

pedrobedro · May 29, 2012

norsa said:
so whats this rapture tackle?

It's U-Pol Raptor paint that goes with a Schutz gun, brush or roller, rapture is the feeling you get when you've made a good job of putting it on (or it might be a posh person's hernia :clapping:

)

Weldinator · May 29, 2012

Chipper said:
It'll go over those but of course the better the grip it has the better it'll last. Coats, if brushing the first coat will be OK but still need another. Don't worry about how thick each one is, just aim for good coverage.
It's good stuff. Been under my car just now again after 5+ months daily use on rough roads round here, couldn't find a single chipped or failed bit.

Ok thanks Chipper, ill do my best at getting rid of it all, not always perfectly possible without sandblasting though.

As for Raptor, i have spelt it incorrectly before now, its actually the name of a dinosaur :ashamed:

MG David · May 29, 2012

From my use of the 80 version I think you need to make sure your clean steel has a good key to it.

Weldinator · May 29, 2012

Im planning on sanding the clean steel a lot with 40 grade foam silicon abrasive, just so i can gain a little more grip, always best to over do this type of work.

Weldinator · May 30, 2012

What do you guys use to stir this highly corrosive 2k hardener and paint, without contaminating the paint with wood etc ?

steveo3002 · May 30, 2012

i take handfulls of the coffee stirrers from mcdonalds ..decant some paint into a plastic cup or tray and mix away

Weldinator · May 30, 2012

Looks like a trip to mackie dee's is in order then lol.

I was told to mix 175mm of hardener with 1ltr of primer, does this sound about right to you ?

I was also told i have 2 hours before it goes off when it cant be painted with anymore ?

Im thinking of getting a paint kettle for mixing them together, then using the plastic measuring cups usually used for paint mixing, to measure 1ltr pf primer and 175mm of hardener.

Any ideas on how what to use to measure 175mm of the hardener ?

Cheers

steveo3002 · May 30, 2012

should be a spec sheet online ..mines 4:1 for winter hardner, i think summer hardner is differant amounts

yeah it stays usable for 2-3 hrs then will start going off , so only mix what you can use

Joton-Jotamastic primer questions.

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