Greetings.
This is a first post from a year long reader looking for advice and feedback on some recent MIG welds preformed on 16 gauge 304L stainless.
The current project is a set of hanging boxes for our tractor. Someplace proper to store the loose chains and strapping which we use all the time on our farm.
The main reason for building such a non-critical item out of stainless steel is mostly to gain more experience with the materiel, as I have a number of upcoming projects which will require stainless construction.
I have already polished box #1 and just finished welding up the outside of box #2.
First, some photos of the completed boxes:
Box #1 all polished up:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tractor1Ear0001w.jpg
A slightly wider Box #2 still in the rough:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tactor2Ear0002w.jpg
Front and back of boxes side by side:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tractor1&2Ears0004w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tractor1&2EarBack0041w.jpg
Note: The heavy brown staining around the welds is the resulting post-weld residue from Walter brand Anti-Spatter Spray. These stains come off with a little bit of light sanding, but does anyone here know of a chemical solvent for easily removing these stains? (Besides pickling paste, which I am trying to avoid for safety and disposal reasons.)
Next up, pictures of the example welds in question that I am looking for feedback on.
EDIT:
Machine type: Hobart Handler 187
Voltage range: 19-21.
Settings on the machine are: Wire Speed "35", Voltage "4".
These last numbers probably won't be as informative, but I thought they might be useful to someone else with the same welder.
Gas used is TriMix 90-7.5-2.5 flowing at 25 CFH.
Torch angle: 45º (aimed straight into the corner from the outside).
Travel speed: ~15 IPM with a drag angle for better penetration.
Stickout: ~1/4"
These are straight stringer outside corner welds made with 308LSi 0.030 wire on short circuit settings. Solar Flux paste was used on the backside of these welds, I am planning to setup with an argon back-purge in the near future. Aluminum heat-sinks were used where possible on flat surfaces.
Are there any concerns regarding aluminum contaminating stainless steel if I were to use it as a backing?
Three photos from the top:
Note: All ink marks on the metal were written AFTER welding, not before (keep those welds clean).
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceT0016w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceT0017w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceT0018w.jpg
Three from the side of the same weld for a better profile:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceS0025w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceS0026w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceS0027w.jpg
Backside of same weld:
Note: I should probably paint on a wider strip of flux next time, or get a back-purge running.
You can also see the reduction in surface oxidation on the side that had an aluminum heat-sink.
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldBack0032w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldBack0033w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldBack0034w.jpg
Right now I'm working on developing consistency to get an even melt-through on all of my welds. Box #2 has notably more reliable penetration than Box #1, so I seem to be making progress on than front (Just need more time under the welding helmet with stainless
).
One problem that continues to trouble me is excessive reinforcement, which can be ground down with a flap wheel, but I would prefer to improve my welding technique and reduce cleanup time.
I have read that this is a common problem with outside corners on thin materiel and was hoping for some pointers.
Extra photo of a fillet weld on the underside of the box:
Started by making two fillet welds moving in opposite directions, but then made the mistake of trying to stitch them together in the middle with a short third weld and forgot to clean off that tough oxide layer on the previous welds (oops).
Oh well, thats what practice is for, and all seams need to be ground smooth anyways.
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFillet0037w.jpg
Looking foreword to becoming an active part of this forum.
Mr Grinch.
This is a first post from a year long reader looking for advice and feedback on some recent MIG welds preformed on 16 gauge 304L stainless.
The current project is a set of hanging boxes for our tractor. Someplace proper to store the loose chains and strapping which we use all the time on our farm.
The main reason for building such a non-critical item out of stainless steel is mostly to gain more experience with the materiel, as I have a number of upcoming projects which will require stainless construction.
I have already polished box #1 and just finished welding up the outside of box #2.
First, some photos of the completed boxes:
Box #1 all polished up:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tractor1Ear0001w.jpg
A slightly wider Box #2 still in the rough:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tactor2Ear0002w.jpg
Front and back of boxes side by side:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tractor1&2Ears0004w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/Tractor1&2EarBack0041w.jpg
Note: The heavy brown staining around the welds is the resulting post-weld residue from Walter brand Anti-Spatter Spray. These stains come off with a little bit of light sanding, but does anyone here know of a chemical solvent for easily removing these stains? (Besides pickling paste, which I am trying to avoid for safety and disposal reasons.)
Next up, pictures of the example welds in question that I am looking for feedback on.
EDIT:
Machine type: Hobart Handler 187
Voltage range: 19-21.
Settings on the machine are: Wire Speed "35", Voltage "4".
These last numbers probably won't be as informative, but I thought they might be useful to someone else with the same welder.
Gas used is TriMix 90-7.5-2.5 flowing at 25 CFH.
Torch angle: 45º (aimed straight into the corner from the outside).
Travel speed: ~15 IPM with a drag angle for better penetration.
Stickout: ~1/4"
These are straight stringer outside corner welds made with 308LSi 0.030 wire on short circuit settings. Solar Flux paste was used on the backside of these welds, I am planning to setup with an argon back-purge in the near future. Aluminum heat-sinks were used where possible on flat surfaces.
Are there any concerns regarding aluminum contaminating stainless steel if I were to use it as a backing?
Three photos from the top:
Note: All ink marks on the metal were written AFTER welding, not before (keep those welds clean).
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceT0016w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceT0017w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceT0018w.jpg
Three from the side of the same weld for a better profile:
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceS0025w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceS0026w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFaceS0027w.jpg
Backside of same weld:
Note: I should probably paint on a wider strip of flux next time, or get a back-purge running.
You can also see the reduction in surface oxidation on the side that had an aluminum heat-sink.
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldBack0032w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldBack0033w.jpg
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldBack0034w.jpg
Right now I'm working on developing consistency to get an even melt-through on all of my welds. Box #2 has notably more reliable penetration than Box #1, so I seem to be making progress on than front (Just need more time under the welding helmet with stainless
).One problem that continues to trouble me is excessive reinforcement, which can be ground down with a flap wheel, but I would prefer to improve my welding technique and reduce cleanup time.
I have read that this is a common problem with outside corners on thin materiel and was hoping for some pointers.
Extra photo of a fillet weld on the underside of the box:
Started by making two fillet welds moving in opposite directions, but then made the mistake of trying to stitch them together in the middle with a short third weld and forgot to clean off that tough oxide layer on the previous welds (oops).
Oh well, thats what practice is for, and all seams need to be ground smooth anyways.
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/misc/WebWeldingPics/TractorEarWeldFillet0037w.jpg
Looking foreword to becoming an active part of this forum.
Mr Grinch.
Last edited:
