Help With My Boc Autolynx Mig

hi all
i have just found this forum and i think it's great and may be some one can help me ?
over twenty years a go me and my brother went half's on an ex rental BOC mig welder
a BOC autolynx it has spent all that time with my brother as he is a mechanic,
i have only used it last once in the last fifteen years ,
i need it at the weekend to do some work on my car so i picked it up you and was not to happy with the state of it
is you can see in the pictures it has seen better days
the mains wiring is just right dangerous but can be easily replaced .
the big problem is with the mig torch as you can see and totally unacceptable and un useable
what i need to know is it possible to get hold off a new torch for this mig
or could it be converted to the new type of mig socket as fitted to the new mig of to day and if how do i go about it and what torch and socket to use

or can you still get parts for the old boc mig ?
any help
thanks simon /oiler0

having problems in up loading the pictures
will try again

Mig Pictures

As You Can See In The Pictures My Problem I Have ?
CAN A NEW TORCH BE FITTED ?
WHO KNOW !

Blimey, the things some people use!
Assuming that the machine is basically ok, a rewire of the mains cable and a new torch should sort it, I would convert it to a Euro connector then you can fit any industrial mig torch to it, you may need to fit a plate over the hole where the old torch exits the machine, to mount the new connector, a picture of the inside showing the wire feed and torch connection would help,
I would use SY cable or similar for the mains lead,
Have A look at this http://www.weldingtorchparts.co.uk/mig-euro-connector-kit-234-p.asp

Boc Autolynx Tourch

hi
thanks for that
a fair as i can tell it all works ok
some times the wire feed relay is a bit on the sticky side but easily sorted with a new one
that link looks just the thing i am looking for ,have you carried out a conversion on a hard wire torch
and what torch would you recommend to use with this mig and socket as i have no i dear about these things

The angle of that wire feed may make it a bit tricky but its certainly do-able, you will probably have to make an angled bracket to mount the euro connector so that the new connector is in line with the wire feed, this may look a little odd, but you don't want to be bending the wire after the roller, I did think that you may be able to rotate the feed to keep it square to the front panel but this will then pull the wire off the reel too low down, I have converted several welders they all posed different problems, on one I moved the motor, It depends on what room is available on the inside of the case,
For the torch I would probably go for an MB25 250 amp http://www.weldingtorchparts.co.uk/mig-welding-torch-mb25---3-m-28-p.asp

HI ALL
started to do the mig euro socket conversion on my old mig and have come to a bit of a problem

i don't under stand how the solid brass block is secured in the plastic outer housing that then bolts to the front of the welder
i have moved the wire feed /motor assembly so it is now parallel with the front panel to mount the new socket on ,
the new position of the wire feed assembly seams to work all ok

i all so presume that the whole euro connector is live when the trigger is used and welding.
so their for it all to be insulated from the chassis of the mig but how is it sucured ?
please help

The plastic housing is bolted to the front panel and the brass block just sits, supported inside it, the brass part is mounted using the long threaded portion at the back.
The only ones I have done have insulated feed mechanism so mounted the block to that, you may have to fabricate some sort of bracket mounted with insulating washers.

Problem, you have moved the feed motor you will have trouble feeding the wire, see in your picture there is a bend in your wire this will cause the wire to jump and poor feed, you need to drill a bigger hole so the brass threaded bar fits into the feed roll assembly, on the plastic euro housing is there a small hole that a allen screw fits in ? this is how you fix the plastic euro housing to the euro adaptor, the power cable is easy just make a lead up from your old torch power cable and run from the dinse socket, make sure the brass euro housing does not come in contact with the machine casing, have done hundreds of them and each one is different

hi
on the plastic euro housing their is NO hole in the side for any grub screw or any thing to hold the the outer plastic housing to the brass euro block
this is what i fined very strange that their is no way of securing it
the only grub screw is in the side of the brass euro block this hold the threaded brass bar in the euro connector
as you can see in the picture the way i have worked it out is to cut down the part where the the wire feed is after the rollers and to thread it to the same as the brass bar on the euro connector .
the big problem i am having is to get hold of a tap same as the threaded on the the bar i have worked it out to be M12x1.0 pitch
every place i go to have only standard M12 tap or wont stupid money for a tap of M12x1.0. tap
i presume that the hole, that has to be made on the chassis of the mig has to be a bit bigger than the brass part of the euro connector so no to short out in any way .
and that you cut the brass the brass threaded bar to the length to suit your needs
and you will all be pleased to know that the mains cable has been replaced

by the way i brought a 4M MB 25 torch BENZEL or some thing like that
very nice just hope i can get it all up and running in the end.

i need a manual and diagram

hi all
am i right in thinking that this BOC mig autolynx was made by murex and not by BOC ,but not sure when late 70s early 80s

i cant find any thing about on the web or murex web site
i am not even sure of model number of the welder
can any one help me out on this one ?
as i am trying to get hold of a manual and circuit diagram for it ?
the euro socket conversion seams to be working ok
i have just fired it up for the first time to see if it would work
it,s looking good
oiler0

wire feed problems

Hi, I have just joined and found this thread and recognised the mig as being the same as mine. I have a problem with mine in that the wire speed will work but will only slow it down to a normal feed rate. In the past, you could turn it down to a complete stop or very slow which was handy for very thin panel work. Does anyone know if the parts are available to fix this. I presume it is some sort of rheostat. Had a look behind the control panel and it looks fairly easy to replace as long as I could get the correct part supplied. Also, can anyone tell me the exact model of autolynx it is?

Thanks for any help out there

Wizzman

Welcome to the forum Wizzman64.
I don't know what's inside your mig but most I read about use a variable resistor or "pot" (short for potemeter). If you can get to look at the pot it should have markings on it, usually something like 1k lin. This would be a 1000 ohm linar variable resistor. Once you have the value and type you could go no ebay and search for it. Note try and make sure you get one with the same shaft size (save trying to find new knob!)
ps worth saying hello in the intro section of forum. (that reminds me I must get round to that myself)

late replies

dont know if you will get a reply of the original poster as the thread is 3years old

Thanks for that Mike. I think that I should remove the offending part and post a picture of it and see if anybody can recognise it. Good interesting forum, this. keep up the good work.