First Time Welds...

Muggins the Mug · Dec 17, 2008

After reconsidering my outlook on the Aldi arc welder, I bought another one and gave it another try.

Here's the results on a piece of 50mm box section (3mm thick). Most of the welds were done with the OEM rods that came with the welder, the exception being Example D - 2.5mm SIPs. I bought some SIP welding rods (2.5mm) out of Halfords against my better judgement (the BOC ones were just too expensive this time of year). Because the SIP rods require a higher OCV of 55V for AC welding, they are a real bugger to strike and maintain a decent arc - sticking frequently.

A = 1.6mm rod @ 40 Amps (OEM)
B = 2.0mm rod @ 60 Amps (OEM)
C = 2.5mm rod @ 80 Amps (OEM)
D = 2.5mm rod @ 80 Amps (SIP)
E = 3.2mm rod @ 115 Amps (OEM)

Woody.v8 · Dec 17, 2008

All the rods could do with a touch more power and slow down

Muggins the Mug · Dec 17, 2008

Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow with a bit more welly and bit less haste.

Sparkey · Dec 17, 2008

Yes, i must agree with woody on this...slow down, take your time to look at what happens with the melt pool, watch it grow and if it is to your likings you slowly move on with the rod...

I'm not very good at arc welding but this is what i do... :ashamed:

malcolm · Dec 17, 2008

I'm not one to take advice from on this subject either, but slightly longer runs might be more informative too. For you as well as for us.

Woody.v8 · Dec 17, 2008

malcolm said:
I'm not one to take advice from on this subject either, but slightly longer runs might be more informative too. For you as well as for us.

That it arr get a full rod down! After all its all practice

Muggins the Mug · Dec 17, 2008

Sparkey said:
Yes, i must agree with woody on this...slow down, take your time to look at what happens with the melt pool, watch it grow and if it is to your likings you slowly move on with the rod...

I'm not very good at arc welding but this is what i do...

I've been watching the weld pool, it's fascinating really watching that molten steel.

Muggins the Mug · Dec 17, 2008

Oh I most definitely will be when I get the chance. It was just a brief "taster" of using the different sized rods.

runnach · Dec 17, 2008

Yep longer runs with more amps, also keep a tight arc length, some times a good idea to run a straight chalk line along the length of material, strike up and follow the chalk line.

When you are more confident, no chalk line, and see how you progress through more practice in keeping a straight weld line.

Sparkey · Dec 17, 2008

Well, i got the hang of that straight line (without chalk!) but when i try to do fillet welds (is that it?) i doesn't really work like it should..

(hehe, 2F for example :cool:

)

runnach · Dec 17, 2008

2F, now your talking

for fillets up the amps a tad more, again a tight arc, as for rod diametor, you may find it easier using a 2.5 dia, maybe you are using 2.5? Then try 3.2 dia.

2.5 @ around 85>90 amps.

3.2 @ around 115 amps.

Cheers.

Forgot to add, try not to weave, stringers all the way lass :welder:

Sparkey · Dec 17, 2008

Ah, i guess i found out what i did wrong then....NO WEAVE?
not even a teeny weeny bit??
Thanks T! :hug:

Muggins the Mug · Dec 18, 2008

I had another bash this morning there using a 2.0mm rods @ 70 Amps (approx). I drew a yellow chalk line down the length of the workpiece, but still managed to go off course. :ashamed:

I think I need to steady my hand and my pace.

I had some difficulties in maintaining the arc beyond point A (arrowed), but I managed to restart the arc till point B (also arrowed) at which point I came to the end of the workpiece.

Drains · Dec 18, 2008

Too fast mugs. Slow it down, and keep a tight arc. Maybe up your amps a tad. Whatever the box says, set it to the high limit.

Muggins the Mug · Dec 18, 2008

Thanks simon, I'll give it another go with a different rod and more power and even less speed.

runnach · Dec 18, 2008

Sparkey said:
not even a teeny weeny bit??

Nope, straight and not too fast to allow for a decent build up and throat thickness. Unless of course you have had too much vino the previous evening, then a wee wobble is acceptable :cool:

Cheers........

malcolm · Dec 18, 2008

Worth thinking about it in terms of the weld pool. For all types of welding the weld pool is the key. For learning it's an idea to establish the pool of molten metal, then once you have it move the rod slowly while maintaining that weld pool at the same width as you go.

With arc you can't actually see the weld pool, but there's a whole lot of bubbling flux that you can see. I've been pretending that is the weld pool and it seems to work.

scarecrow · Dec 18, 2008

Just to start with forget about moving forward light up the rod and just hold it pointing towards the weld pool and watch it build when the weld starts to come out under the front edge of the rod you have waited too long before moving. this will give you an idea of the amount of time it takes for the weld pool to develop

chrisg3103 · Dec 18, 2008

personaly ive found the best welds appear if i can get a little whirlpool efect in the slag/flux pool, havnt a clue if this is a standard procedure :laughing:

shenion · Dec 18, 2008

malcolm said:
With arc you can't actually see the weld pool, but there's a whole lot of bubbling flux that you can see. I've been pretending that is the weld pool and it seems to work.

With practice, you can see the weld pool as a slightly more yellow area in the slag.

It is hard with 6013's especially the cheaper ones. I find 7018's are much easier to see the weld pool.

First Time Welds...

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