- Thread starter BigJonn
- Start date
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
- Messages
- 7,586
- Location
- Stone Mountain, GA USA
Ok, You will need to do the following:
(note the wires have numbers printed on them.)
1. Locate signals 5 and 6 (two of the 3 power input terminals that lead to the power switch)
2. Connect 220V power to the two lugs that these signals connect to. Ignore the 3rd.
3. Set jumpers for 230V
4. Locate signal 66 going to one of the slider taps on the transformer (part that moves up/down on the 3 threaded rods.) Disconnect it and cover in heat shrink or tape and tie it out of the way.
5. Disconnect wire feeder, power up and measure voltage on the feeder power socket. You should get around 120V. If so, then you have it set up right.
That should be it. You will only get 70% of the rated power and voltage. It will still work fine.
(note the wires have numbers printed on them.)
1. Locate signals 5 and 6 (two of the 3 power input terminals that lead to the power switch)
2. Connect 220V power to the two lugs that these signals connect to. Ignore the 3rd.
3. Set jumpers for 230V
4. Locate signal 66 going to one of the slider taps on the transformer (part that moves up/down on the 3 threaded rods.) Disconnect it and cover in heat shrink or tape and tie it out of the way.
5. Disconnect wire feeder, power up and measure voltage on the feeder power socket. You should get around 120V. If so, then you have it set up right.
That should be it. You will only get 70% of the rated power and voltage. It will still work fine.
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
- Messages
- 7,586
- Location
- Stone Mountain, GA USA
Great 
Just curious, what voltage go you get out? The dial on mine goes to 44V if I remember right. I could get about 32 with the mod similar to yours.
Mine also supports 208V so jumpering it at that gets me about 37V. I was able to separately jumper the control transformer that powers the wire feeder for 220V.
Still hard to judge by the meter as there are some filter capacitors that will fool them a bit under no load. I do see a dummy load on the output, that should help accuracy. Mine reads well over 40V but the actual when welding is probably about 32v.
With 3-phase, the voltage is closer to actual.
Looks like yours is made in 1973 or 1974 (hard to tell if the serial # is HE or HF). About the same time as my big Airco TIG. My CP-200 is 1979. These beasts just keep on running.
You should be able to get 150A with no problems and a decent duty cycle.
I added about 60,000uf of caps to the output of mine. Helped the arc be a bit more stable. Now with 0.030 or 0.023 wire it is a very soft buzz.
Just curious, what voltage go you get out? The dial on mine goes to 44V if I remember right. I could get about 32 with the mod similar to yours.
Mine also supports 208V so jumpering it at that gets me about 37V. I was able to separately jumper the control transformer that powers the wire feeder for 220V.
Still hard to judge by the meter as there are some filter capacitors that will fool them a bit under no load. I do see a dummy load on the output, that should help accuracy. Mine reads well over 40V but the actual when welding is probably about 32v.
With 3-phase, the voltage is closer to actual.
Looks like yours is made in 1973 or 1974 (hard to tell if the serial # is HE or HF). About the same time as my big Airco TIG. My CP-200 is 1979. These beasts just keep on running.
You should be able to get 150A with no problems and a decent duty cycle.
I added about 60,000uf of caps to the output of mine. Helped the arc be a bit more stable. Now with 0.030 or 0.023 wire it is a very soft buzz.
Hi All,
I have just gotten the same Miller CP 200. I have single phase to my shop. but I have a big rotary phase converter that I run my lathe with. Before I read this post I was planning to hook the welder up to run off of the phase converter. What are the thoughts, single or three phase from the converter? I was going to hook the controls on the good legs and the home made leg to the third leg. I think that I would get more amperage out with 3 ph but, there would be more power used or input running the converter. Would I not get a little smoother out put on three phase?
Thanks for any and all in put.
Fred P..............
I have just gotten the same Miller CP 200. I have single phase to my shop. but I have a big rotary phase converter that I run my lathe with. Before I read this post I was planning to hook the welder up to run off of the phase converter. What are the thoughts, single or three phase from the converter? I was going to hook the controls on the good legs and the home made leg to the third leg. I think that I would get more amperage out with 3 ph but, there would be more power used or input running the converter. Would I not get a little smoother out put on three phase?
Thanks for any and all in put.
Fred P..............
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
- Messages
- 7,586
- Location
- Stone Mountain, GA USA
3-phase would be smoother.
Single phase will drop the voltage some. Probably about 20%. The max current will be 2/3 the rated out. You can get a bit more, but will hit the duty cycle earlier.
I have the CP-250TS. I added 60,000uf caps to mine to smooth out the rectified AC. Makes for a real smooth arc. Mine had no reactor, so it needed more mods (even in 3-phase) to run short-arc transfer.
You can get a bit more out by jumpering it for 200V. Then the 115V out will be a bit high and you migh use a regular outlet to power the feeder.
It is best to disconnect both sides of the unused phase on the transformer. When running on single phase, I find it tripped the breaker if the contactor did not close cleanly. Must induce an imbalance in the transformer. Mine is a delta configuration on the input though, the CP-200 uses a Wye input, so the 3rd leg would be floating.
Early CP250's were Wye input, later are delta. Make sure yours matches the link shown above.
Single phase will drop the voltage some. Probably about 20%. The max current will be 2/3 the rated out. You can get a bit more, but will hit the duty cycle earlier.
I have the CP-250TS. I added 60,000uf caps to mine to smooth out the rectified AC. Makes for a real smooth arc. Mine had no reactor, so it needed more mods (even in 3-phase) to run short-arc transfer.
You can get a bit more out by jumpering it for 200V. Then the 115V out will be a bit high and you migh use a regular outlet to power the feeder.
It is best to disconnect both sides of the unused phase on the transformer. When running on single phase, I find it tripped the breaker if the contactor did not close cleanly. Must induce an imbalance in the transformer. Mine is a delta configuration on the input though, the CP-200 uses a Wye input, so the 3rd leg would be floating.
Early CP250's were Wye input, later are delta. Make sure yours matches the link shown above.
Miller cp200
Will this set up work on my MILLER CP200?
Ok, You will need to do the following:
(note the wires have numbers printed on them.)
1. Locate signals 5 and 6 (two of the 3 power input terminals that lead to the power switch)
2. Connect 220V power to the two lugs that these signals connect to. Ignore the 3rd.
3. Set jumpers for 230V
4. Locate signal 66 going to one of the slider taps on the transformer (part that moves up/down on the 3 threaded rods.) Disconnect it and cover in heat shrink or tape and tie it out of the way.
5. Disconnect wire feeder, power up and measure voltage on the feeder power socket. You should get around 120V. If so, then you have it set up right.
That should be it. You will only get 70% of the rated power and voltage. It will still work fine.
Will this set up work on my MILLER CP200?
Ok, You will need to do the following:
(note the wires have numbers printed on them.)
1. Locate signals 5 and 6 (two of the 3 power input terminals that lead to the power switch)
2. Connect 220V power to the two lugs that these signals connect to. Ignore the 3rd.
3. Set jumpers for 230V
4. Locate signal 66 going to one of the slider taps on the transformer (part that moves up/down on the 3 threaded rods.) Disconnect it and cover in heat shrink or tape and tie it out of the way.
5. Disconnect wire feeder, power up and measure voltage on the feeder power socket. You should get around 120V. If so, then you have it set up right.
That should be it. You will only get 70% of the rated power and voltage. It will still work fine.
Many other 'names' have been applied to welders manufactured by Miller, and the CP-200 and CP-300 power supplies are very simple, and incredibly robust.
You can easily get full output, and some impressive welds... take some time and do it this way:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ler-cp200-converted-240v-single-phase-199832/
You can easily get full output, and some impressive welds... take some time and do it this way:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ler-cp200-converted-240v-single-phase-199832/
