Can't get the hang of butt welds , tried 5mm with prep , root pass with 2.5mm at 80 amps .weld falls through gap , so I tried weaving side to side and that just made it build up on the sides. Tried going slower and I started to burn through , tried it without prep and then can't get penetration . Really struggling with these anyone got any advice ?
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Kent
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it takes considerable skill and a lot of dodges
to fill a 5mm open route with a rod only half the thickness ( if I understand what your describing correctly) but also pointless as you can penetrate sufficiently without using so big a gap. Fast freeze type rods also help like 6010 etc. when doing open routes
to fill a 5mm open route with a rod only half the thickness ( if I understand what your describing correctly) but also pointless as you can penetrate sufficiently without using so big a gap. Fast freeze type rods also help like 6010 etc. when doing open routesI ran a 2mm gap which probably is a bit too big , planned on filling it with a 3.2 rod. But didn't get that far. I've used some
Lincoln fleetweld 6010 found them easier to do butt welds with , I like how you don't have to clean the metal or prep it , just blast through everything , here's a picture of my attempt at 6010
Lincoln fleetweld 6010 found them easier to do butt welds with , I like how you don't have to clean the metal or prep it , just blast through everything , here's a picture of my attempt at 6010
wheresmejumper
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Is that with 6013,and what position?
wheresmejumper
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Its a very hard technique, takes literally boxes of rods to get good at it.
it should look like a regular stick bead,no holes,equal size all along it.ive no photo of one.just like a fillet weld or any type of weld,consistent.
the plate setup is hugely critical, if the landing edge and root gap isnt spot on theres no hope.theres no hard rules though
its easier to run hot with a small gap,and a bit cold with a wider gap.the size of land i normally let the type of rod dictate.to a lesser extent the position.
6013 are low penetrating,but you move slow on open rooting with them,so heat builds quick.theres no fast flicking like 6010/11
try 2mm land first,2mm gap.smiley face side to side slow movement.if you move too fast or step forward too much you get pockets of slag between blobs of weld like your pic.
you are kind of slowly encouraging the molten pool to travel down the plate with you.if the weld is falling through the gap then too much heat is in the pool,so you need to progress quicker.a slightly heavier land will help a little but you wouldnt want to go over 3mm.
if your not penetrating enough then travel slower...less land...but no less than 1mm.
good luck
it should look like a regular stick bead,no holes,equal size all along it.ive no photo of one.just like a fillet weld or any type of weld,consistent.
the plate setup is hugely critical, if the landing edge and root gap isnt spot on theres no hope.theres no hard rules though
its easier to run hot with a small gap,and a bit cold with a wider gap.the size of land i normally let the type of rod dictate.to a lesser extent the position.
6013 are low penetrating,but you move slow on open rooting with them,so heat builds quick.theres no fast flicking like 6010/11
try 2mm land first,2mm gap.smiley face side to side slow movement.if you move too fast or step forward too much you get pockets of slag between blobs of weld like your pic.
you are kind of slowly encouraging the molten pool to travel down the plate with you.if the weld is falling through the gap then too much heat is in the pool,so you need to progress quicker.a slightly heavier land will help a little but you wouldnt want to go over 3mm.
if your not penetrating enough then travel slower...less land...but no less than 1mm.
good luck
wheresmejumper
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Has to be a small weave with 6013
Bill Edwards
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When you are blowing through you can control things a little by flicking the rod backwards where you've come from. I'm talking about small movements here, nothing silly, just a little flick back then return to where you were. Controlling the keyhole.
It's a very fine line on these joints between blowing it to pieces and going too far the other way. Little changes to the prep and lots of practice are needed.
When you get it right the reverse side will just be standing a little proud of the metal and it will be pretty even - as wheresmejumper says, like a weld bead should look like from the top.
It's a very fine line on these joints between blowing it to pieces and going too far the other way. Little changes to the prep and lots of practice are needed.
When you get it right the reverse side will just be standing a little proud of the metal and it will be pretty even - as wheresmejumper says, like a weld bead should look like from the top.
I've been using 6013 , I've tried 6010 before and it went alright. Problem im having is looks terrible on the back face . im getting penetration , sorted with the key hole , not burning through but it's just not even in the back face , it's lumpy , sometimes there's holes etc
Liquid Metal
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Wit a 6010, or 6011 it's much easier rooting with DC negative.
wheresmejumper
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6010 are usually specified as dc+
They might work on dc- but just remember its not what theyre designed for
They might work on dc- but just remember its not what theyre designed for
Liquid Metal
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Lincoln electric 5p+ 3.2mm 6010
Excellent for rooting plate, especially good on pipe, 85-90amps DCNeg.
30-35deg prep, barely any landing edge maybe 1mm, hacksaw blade gap, push rod tip right through prep, so arc is inside pipe/behind plate, then using very slight back and forward motion, but steady movement along joint.
Murex celtian, as above, can run on AC, but not as good
Only review I can offer, was just offering my two bobs worth, that I find u get a lot more control of the arc when rooting, if you use dc neg.
Excellent for rooting plate, especially good on pipe, 85-90amps DCNeg.
30-35deg prep, barely any landing edge maybe 1mm, hacksaw blade gap, push rod tip right through prep, so arc is inside pipe/behind plate, then using very slight back and forward motion, but steady movement along joint.
Murex celtian, as above, can run on AC, but not as good
Only review I can offer, was just offering my two bobs worth, that I find u get a lot more control of the arc when rooting, if you use dc neg.
Rrunnach
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Always buy in ESAB 6011's. Then one day one of my lads came over to say he was struggling to root. I went into bay, had a try myself, brutal!
Checked settings, then finally checked spec on rod, 6010. Reversed polarity, bingo, back to norm. Supplier go it wrong, supplied 10's, instead of 11's. The characteristics are significant.
I can't speak for other brands, I'm surprised if 10's produce decent root on pipe when on DCE-.
Checked settings, then finally checked spec on rod, 6010. Reversed polarity, bingo, back to norm. Supplier go it wrong, supplied 10's, instead of 11's. The characteristics are significant.
I can't speak for other brands, I'm surprised if 10's produce decent root on pipe when on DCE-.
