Erie Fred
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- 3,817
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
Fixed it for you.....Bull float is good. You can get a very nice finish. Or if you feel a little more adventurous go with a ride on power float
Fixed it for you.....Bull float is good. You can get a very nice finish. Or if you feel a little more adventurous go with a ride on power float
For 3 cubic meters of C35 around £550 from the barrow boys. My bill to on top of that was for the mesh and frame work etc. Another couple hundred quid.i havent looked in a while
but at 80.00 for 1 ton bags is extortion when it was 30-40.00 per bag
are you also affected by the exhaust tax as well ?
Yea like 20 years ago 3 cubes out the barrow is not bad at £550For 3 cubic meters of C35 around £550 from the barrow boys. My bill to on top of that was for the mesh and frame work etc. Another couple hundred quid.
I used to pay around £70 a cube.
I know things have gone up but an increase from £70 5 years ago to £180 a cube m is a lot, Thats not what i am complaining about. Just dont want to pay that for what i need. as its flagged anyway.Yea like 20 years ago 3 cubes out the barrow is not bad at £550
I hear you brother..but if you was paying £70 a cube 5 years ago then it was a bargain. Anyway if you have flags then just use themI know things have gone up but an increase from £70 5 years ago to £180 a cube m is a lot, Thats not what i am complaining about. Just dont want to pay that for what i need. as its flagged anyway.
For 3 cubic meters of C35 around £550 from the barrow boys. My bill to on top of that was for the mesh and frame work etc. Another couple hundred quid.
I used to pay around £70 a cube.
I hear you brother..but if you was paying £70 a cube 5 years ago then it was a bargain. Anyway if you have flags then just use them
You could still hand mix for that, If you could beg steal or borrow a tipper ballast collected from the pit is around £35 a ton
Bob
Bloody hell done that in the past, no more for me, its bad enough having the barrow boys out lol,.
Is that right though on price as last time looked it wasnt a great deal dearer to have it delievred to mixing yourself.
no sod it i will keep the flags.
I already have the flags down, been down for 10 years plus.By the time you have prepped the base, laid the slabs and pointed them that concrete is going to look reasonable .
Bob
Get a company to supply the concrete, pour it and float it, it didn’t cost me much more to get it floated, I’d done all of the groundwork’s which is the expensive part of a slab, it’s floated almost as soon as it’s poured, within a couple of hours.I have decided to replace the flagged area where the Clarke garage is going with a proper concrete pad. It will be 7.5m x 4m so a larger pad than normal for me to do. biggest i hav edone is 5mx3m and that was shard but i didnt need it smooth. Well as smooth as i want it this time, I am thinking C35 will do it.
I am usure if to paint it yet but that will have to be done after a few moths once fully dry anyway.
Now what would be the best way to smooth it out ?
you pay that much? tenner a ton down here when i last had some 6 months ago. doubt it has gone up that much.You could still hand mix for that, If you could beg steal or borrow a tipper ballast collected from the pit is around £35 a ton
Bob
you pay that much? tenner a ton down here when i last had some 6 months ago. doubt it has gone up that much.
Can I give you some advice, and by the way I’m not in the building trade but this is just from my experience of building a wooden workshop on a concrete pad, get a couple of course of brick on the slab and build the garage on that.And its just a Clarke garage anyway and ill just raise the frame a few inch on timber, ist just to stop any water from rain getting under ifi it can.
This problem can be solved by having your cladding 100mm past the top of the slab.Can I give you some advice, and by the way I’m not in the building trade but this is just from my experience of building a wooden workshop on a concrete pad, get a couple of course of brick on the slab and build the garage on that.
Despite all of my attempts I have been unable to stop moisture coming through into my workshop.
My pad is larger than the workshop, and moisture comes through under the wooden bearers which are sitting on a membrane barrier , you want the bearers above the pad in my experience.
Or have the wooden bearers slightly wider than the concrete pad so that water drips off and doesn’t pool and come through.
I wish I’d known that earlier and I’d have done it differently
I know you’re not building a wooden garage but if you’re building it on wooden bearers you may have the same problem as I have.