14" Table saw Build.
Hi guys, I needed a table saw so that I could slice and dice up some timber from the slabs I milled from 3 logs I had, this would enable the timber to dry out faster and give me an idea of how much useable timber I ended up with. Had a 4HP 3 phase motor lying around in the shed and an old aquarium stand as well, so thought that it was about time I did something with them.
1. Made 2 bearing holders to fit 30mm ID bearings. Bored out some holes in some 80mm round bar, cut them off and welded them to some 10mm plate.
2. Welded a side plate at 90 degrees, these get bolted down to the frame and hold everything together.
3. Other side of the bearing holder.
4. Roughly turned a double pulley out of a larger round bar and turned down one end as that will be where the M10 grub screw locks down the shaft key. After it was cut, it was drilled to size and then the pulley was welded to a piece of 40mm stainless rod. The lot was then machined to make it all true and remove any distortion made by the welding.
5. I put a thread on the end of the shaft to accept a threaded blade hub, but later on I had to remove that thread and made a new hub (Pic 8.) with straight through hole and a larger flange. Having the thread on the end gave the blade a very slight wobble which at full revs would look normal till I started to cut some timber and then the blade would oscillate dangerously, couldn't work out why till I connected up the VSD to it instead of directly to the power and dropped the speed down to 500 RPM and then I could just barely see the wobble, at full revs the centrifugal force made it all look straight and hid the wobble until I started cutting. Probably from too much tolerance between the male shaft thread and the female hub thread. 6. Shaft assembled (showing the old hub).
7. Making the new hub. Drilled some steel rod, welded it to some plate, cut the corners off and attached it to the shaft, put the whole lot in the lathe, used a steady rest on the bearing and machined the lot true. there is a M14 x 1.5mm bolt which clamps the blade to the shaft and hub plus a M10 grub screw, no more wobbles.
8. Plasma cut out a slot in some 5mm plate to fit a M14 x 1.5mm bolt which clamps the frame to the right blade depth.
9. Plasma cut out some 3mm plate to make the lower blade cover/dust collector, added some 3mm x 25mm flat bar for the sides and added a piece of 40m tube for the extractor hose to clamp to. Originally this was going to be a 12" saw, so I made the frame to suit but with the drama I had with the blade wobbling I ended up getting an old 14" blade to see if it was a faulty blade (which it wasn't) I then figured I might as well make it to accept 12" and 14" blades, which also meant I had to take out some bits from the sides to make it fit. The larger blades come close but there is still enough clearance. (just).
10. Added a strut for lift assistance when raising or lowering the frame, with the 4hp motor added the frame weighs approx. 60Kg so awkward to lift even when the other end is pivoted, the strut makes the lifting job easy.
More pics in next post
Hi guys, I needed a table saw so that I could slice and dice up some timber from the slabs I milled from 3 logs I had, this would enable the timber to dry out faster and give me an idea of how much useable timber I ended up with. Had a 4HP 3 phase motor lying around in the shed and an old aquarium stand as well, so thought that it was about time I did something with them.
1. Made 2 bearing holders to fit 30mm ID bearings. Bored out some holes in some 80mm round bar, cut them off and welded them to some 10mm plate.
2. Welded a side plate at 90 degrees, these get bolted down to the frame and hold everything together.
3. Other side of the bearing holder.
4. Roughly turned a double pulley out of a larger round bar and turned down one end as that will be where the M10 grub screw locks down the shaft key. After it was cut, it was drilled to size and then the pulley was welded to a piece of 40mm stainless rod. The lot was then machined to make it all true and remove any distortion made by the welding.
5. I put a thread on the end of the shaft to accept a threaded blade hub, but later on I had to remove that thread and made a new hub (Pic 8.) with straight through hole and a larger flange. Having the thread on the end gave the blade a very slight wobble which at full revs would look normal till I started to cut some timber and then the blade would oscillate dangerously, couldn't work out why till I connected up the VSD to it instead of directly to the power and dropped the speed down to 500 RPM and then I could just barely see the wobble, at full revs the centrifugal force made it all look straight and hid the wobble until I started cutting. Probably from too much tolerance between the male shaft thread and the female hub thread. 6. Shaft assembled (showing the old hub).
7. Making the new hub. Drilled some steel rod, welded it to some plate, cut the corners off and attached it to the shaft, put the whole lot in the lathe, used a steady rest on the bearing and machined the lot true. there is a M14 x 1.5mm bolt which clamps the blade to the shaft and hub plus a M10 grub screw, no more wobbles.
8. Plasma cut out a slot in some 5mm plate to fit a M14 x 1.5mm bolt which clamps the frame to the right blade depth.
9. Plasma cut out some 3mm plate to make the lower blade cover/dust collector, added some 3mm x 25mm flat bar for the sides and added a piece of 40m tube for the extractor hose to clamp to. Originally this was going to be a 12" saw, so I made the frame to suit but with the drama I had with the blade wobbling I ended up getting an old 14" blade to see if it was a faulty blade (which it wasn't) I then figured I might as well make it to accept 12" and 14" blades, which also meant I had to take out some bits from the sides to make it fit. The larger blades come close but there is still enough clearance. (just).
10. Added a strut for lift assistance when raising or lowering the frame, with the 4hp motor added the frame weighs approx. 60Kg so awkward to lift even when the other end is pivoted, the strut makes the lifting job easy.
More pics in next post
...jeff...
