Slag Removal

[HasBean]

Been playing at stick welding this morning, just running a few lines making a pad for practice, and noticed on a couple of occassions that the slag has started to lift off the weld by the time I've finished (not seen this before, always had to knock seven bells out of it)(I am the worlds worst at mma )
Conversely I tried a couple of T fillet welds and ended up with a really thick slag that needed a good bashing to remove.
Is this right or am I missing something obvious?
Cheers,
Paul

PS Using Eutectic 2.5mm 6013's

 

[Welderpaul]

When the slag starts to peel off the weld on it's own - it is a sign of a good, consistent weld. Usually only happens on flat welds, lap, butt etc. - especially with good quality 6013's like Eutectic.
The slag tends to stay put when on a t fillet as the two 90 degree sides prevent it from lifting.
Sounds like your getting it right anyway - any pictures to post?

 

[matt1978]

Slag removing on its own, means its as close to being perfect as possible, so you must of maintained the correct arc length and travel speed along the run. Well done you!

It is also possible for this to happen on a T-Filled, but a little harder to achieve because on top of correct amps, arc length and travel speed, you also need the correct rod angle and to be in the joint at the correct angle too (eg not further up one face that the other). 6013's are quite forgiving and good for learning on.

If you use 7018's then is almost impossible to get the slag to remove on its own, however well you have done the weld.

 

[HasBean]

Thanks guys, no pics as yet, will take some next time when I've sourced some more scrap.
I'm determined to get the hang of arc, made some brackets out of 1/4" bar the other week and had to use the mig in multiple passes as I just couldn't stick weld them at all! Decided to 'try' to stop using the mig until I can at least do a few decent positional stick welds.

 

[irondarren]

Stick is easy enough, just takes a while to get used to it. Just stick ( )with it and you will get the hang of it

 

[rtbcomp]

That happened to me once, welding 1/4 in thick angle with a stick welder, current turned well up.

Very nice feeling.

 

[snowcat]

Its a good sign when the slag removes by itself you know the weld is good, a 6013 with a bit of practice will peal like this...http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=1931

 

[Wozzaaah]

Hehe, you just wanted to show off your welds again Snowy . Makes the job a lot easier when it peels like that, I sometimes have to chip the hell out of it to get it to come off but then I don't use stick much. (mental note to self, dust the MMA kit off tomorrow and have a play)

 

[snowcat]

Hehe, you just wanted to show off your welds again Snowy

Saddly you know me too well wozzaaah

 

[Wozzaaah]

I have to say, if my stick welds looked half as good as yours I'd be proud to show them off

 

[Welderpaul]

Come on snowy - lets see some more pictures of your work/workshop........

 

[Drains]

Come on snowy - lets see some more pictures of your work/workshop........

Always asking to see Paul, but never showing.....

Come on big man, show us yer work!

 

[Tombutler]

Railheads

When the slag starts to peel off the weld on it's own - it is a sign of a good, consistent weld. Usually only happens on flat welds, lap, butt etc. - especially with good quality 6013's like Eutectic.
The slag tends to stay put when on a t fillet as the two 90 degree sides prevent it from lifting.
Sounds like your getting it right anyway - any pictures to post?

hi,when welding railheads onto a gate is there an easy way other than useing clamps with the gate flat on tressels.

 

[Welderpaul]

Hello Tombutler - welcome to the forum.
I weld the railheads on last, I stand the gate upright against the bench the hold the railhead in gloved hand in the right position and tack it. Usually a little tap with the hammer to make sure it is aligned correctly, then move on to the next. When they are all tacked put a piece of flat bar against them to make sure they are in line, couple more taps then fully weld them all on. Always works for me - takes too long to individually clamp and weld!
On some of the more popular gates i have a series of jigs made, so we just cut all the steel to length, drop it all in the jig and tack everything one side, turn over and fully weld. I have milled some slots in a piece of flat bar which is welded to the jig - all the railheads slot in, then can be fully welded without tacking them. The jig took three days to make, so only worth it if you are making loads of gates all the same!

 

[Baz-Cem]

Put a railhead at each end and make sure they are right and run some bricklayers line between the two. That way you know they are straight along the lengh and you just have to make sure they are vertical when you tack them.

It saves alot of time instead of hammering them straight.

 

[irondarren]

welderpaul do you know that fh brundles do jigs for welding railing heads on? think they were about £30 odd

 

[Welderpaul]

welderpaul do you know that fh brundles do jigs for welding railing heads on? think they were about £30 odd

Yeah, i have a couple - fiddly things. Don't get me wrong, only a little tap here and there with th'hammer, not 14-pounder out or anything!
Everyone has their own prefered way.

 

[irondarren]

I never use a jig just tack them on wack them about then weld em solid, if after i welded solid i get a rogue one i get the gas out heat it up and beat it

 

[Tombutler]

railheads

Hello Tombutler - welcome to the forum.
I weld the railheads on last, I stand the gate upright against the bench the hold the railhead in gloved hand in the right position and tack it. Usually a little tap with the hammer to make sure it is aligned correctly, then move on to the next. When they are all tacked put a piece of flat bar against them to make sure they are in line, couple more taps then fully weld them all on. Always works for me - takes too long to individually clamp and weld!
On some of the more popular gates i have a series of jigs made, so we just cut all the steel to length, drop it all in the jig and tack everything one side, turn over and fully weld. I have milled some slots in a piece of flat bar which is welded to the jig - all the railheads slot in, then can be fully welded without tacking them. The jig took three days to make, so only worth it if you are making loads of gates all the same!

ahh thanks,i`ll give that a go,i`m just starting so any tips are needed.thanks again

 

[flange jockey]

hi lads, thought this thread would be perfect to join in, this practice piece was 6013 vert, i do a lot of welding mostly pipe,f/j .