Tig practice

[SBK]

Been struggling with stainless 304 x 1.5mm Tube.
The welds I think were getting to hot and coming out dark grey.
I had tried turning down the amps to 30 but was still the same.
I was using 1mm 308 filler, 1.6mm 2% Lanth Tungsten,7-8 lpm Argon,Gas lense and no 10 cup.
Using my Thermal Arc 202 and CK flexloc 150
Had some time on my hands today so thought I would try and sort it.

Started off in pic 1 with Thermal arc recommended settings on pulse :
High 60 amps
low 33 amps
Width 33%
Hz 33
Down slope 1 sec
Pre flow 1 sec
Post flow 5 sec
0 Hot start

As you can see not very nice.
From then on in went from low amps with no pulse to higher amps with pulse and then vice versa.

I then changed the No 10 cup for a no 7 and made a huge difference.

Pics from 7 on were with the different cup.

Weld no 14 was with settings:
High 65
Low 33
Width 33
Hz 33
All other settings the same.

I am still getting a blue colour in the weld now and then but mainly straw/Gold colour.

Am I on the right track with these welds?

Any comments appreciated.

 

[overload]

You're going about it the right way. Just need more practice!!!

On settings, you could try this,

Hot Start 10
High 60
Low 25
Pulse Width 25
Frequency/Hz 50

My thinking is use the hot start to help the high setting to form a puddle.
Set the high enough so once going, the filler drops in nice and not sticky.
Set the low and pulse width so it helps to control heat input.
Set the frequency/Hz at 50 for a more controlled arc.

 

[SBK]

Thanks will give it go and report back

 

[langy]

I wouldn't use pulse for that myself but I use a pedal, if your not quick enough with your travel it will get hot and go grey, 4-5 on the gas would be fine 7-8 is just wasting gas,
As someone else said practise practise practise and you will get there.

 

[SBK]

Yes have tried without pulse but seems easier for me to control the puddle.
Hopefully will have lots of these to make so will have lots to practice on .
Will try dropping the Lpm,cheers.

 

[overload]

Completely forgot about this page I keep hidden in favorites. Some good tips on there!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112578&page=35

 

[hotrodder]

Yes have tried without pulse but seems easier for me to control the puddle.

Don't take this the wrong way but pulse is a tool used for lowering average heat input/arc shaping, the 'more controlled' weld pool is a side effect. Rely on it for weld pool control and it will become a crutch that masks bad habits.

As Langy, practice, practice, practice and arc length is what you need to concenrate on IMO. Good thread on the subject here... http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/tig-welding-stainless-manifold-help.23592/

Don't get too obsessed about weld colour at the expense of more important things... LOF (lack of fusion defects), incomplete pen with butt welds etc etc. Get the basics right (without pulse) and the weld colour will sort itself out with time and practice.

 

[SBK]

@overload Thanks what a talented guy.Spent a good while reading through 40pages !

@hotrodder I had a go again yesterday with no pulse,lower Lpm and funnily enough my welds were indeed neater.

Will keep at it,thanks for the advice.

 

[SBK]

Just a quick update,much happier with my settings @ 38 amps no pulse,5lpm,lanth tungsten,1mm filler.
Cheers for all the advice and happy new year.

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

They're looking good mate try and keep your arc length consistent though heat input looks nice and even.

 

[Buter]

Your welds are progressing nicely; well done.

Kris from 44 bikes certainly seems like a nice guy. He's got a huge presence on the web and is always willing to give advice or help out. If you're looking for more tips or inspiration wrt thin wall tubing there's usually some good stuff on here.

Cheers

Buter

 

[langy]

Looks much better, just a bit more practise on your arc length

 

[hotrodder]

What they said, MUCH better

 

[SBK]

Thanks all will keep at it.
Hopefully a pair of specs will help can't see bugger all close up

 

[langy]

Thanks all will keep at it.
Hopefully a pair of specs will help can't see ****** all close up

Get yourself a Dioptor lens, you will be glad you did

 

[Shox Dr]

Get yourself a Dioptor lens, you will be glad you did

Agreed, just wish the lid manufacturers made ones that fitted. (Optrel)



edit: just had a search and they do do them, so I cant remember why the one I bought doesn't fit, although ISTR it not been a OEM product, that and not worth bothering sending it back

 

[langy]

Agreed, just wish the lid manufacturers made ones that fitted. (Optrel)



edit: just had a search and they do do them, so I cant remember why the one I bought doesn't fit, although ISTR it not been a OEM product, that and not worth bothering sending it back

Just stick it in with some tape, thats what I did. Sometimes you have to make things work for you

 

[chevy2]

Just stick it in with some tape, thats what I did. Sometimes you have to make things work for you

Or with a couple very thin beads of silicone to hold the cheater lens in like i had to on an older type mask.

 

[Shox Dr]

It's stuck in with graffer tape. I hate looking at it everytime I pick the lid up

 

[Buter]

+1 on the duct tape.