billthedrill
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mig tip burning back not diping it leads on ok neg on torch pos erth so watts gowing wrong 
newbe to tig
newbe to tig
- Thread starter billthedrill
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Drains
Yeah, nah.
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billthedrill
New Member
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Yes to most of them argon gas flow hising ok havent got flow meter.
It's a clarke 131 think maybe it was to windy and think i was using to small a tip it is the one with white pant on it 1.5 MM i think with to much amps and only no 6 shroud.
I am compleat newbe to this type of wellding.
It's a clarke 131 think maybe it was to windy and think i was using to small a tip it is the one with white pant on it 1.5 MM i think with to much amps and only no 6 shroud.
I am compleat newbe to this type of wellding.
Lawnmowerboy
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I take it by 'tip' you mean Tungsten, I take it you mean ceriated if you mean white/grey?
What is your arc length stickout ect, what sort of material are you trying to weld. You need to grind the tungsten to a fine point or use the tungsten acid dip stuff. Are you sure you haven't got an argon/co2 mix for mig. It has been known to happen that people have bought/ been given the wrong cylinder by some suppliers.
What is your arc length stickout ect, what sort of material are you trying to weld. You need to grind the tungsten to a fine point or use the tungsten acid dip stuff. Are you sure you haven't got an argon/co2 mix for mig. It has been known to happen that people have bought/ been given the wrong cylinder by some suppliers.
billthedrill
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1 Been given the wrong cylinder Got the right gas.ARGON 100%
2 Stick out about 1/4"
3 Using no 6 shroud
4 Welding mild steel plate on Camper van.
5 Grind the tungsten to a fine point done that
2 Stick out about 1/4"
3 Using no 6 shroud
4 Welding mild steel plate on Camper van.
5 Grind the tungsten to a fine point done that
Try doing it in a place with no wind.
Unfortunately for you, TIG is quite a precision process, it won't like anything other than super clean metal, and it'd probably like you to be able to talk about gas flow a bit more precisely than "it's hissing"
Sounds like insufficient flow to me, try more gas and less electrode stick out.
Unfortunately for you, TIG is quite a precision process, it won't like anything other than super clean metal, and it'd probably like you to be able to talk about gas flow a bit more precisely than "it's hissing"
Sounds like insufficient flow to me, try more gas and less electrode stick out.
Post some pics of used tungstens and a weld or two. Fullstop and shift keys not required for that (sorry couldn't resist thanks to Shox 
) but if someone's nicked the macro button (flower icon) off your camera you'll struggle to get a good close up that's in focus.
A selection of contaminated tungstens courtesy of the TIG tutorials (4th from top is what they should look like)...
They've all been contaminated with stainless by the looks of things, mild steel tends to be greyer/mankier colourwise. Don't always get a big blob like in the pic
This is what the tip looks like when it melts back without being contaminated from loss of gas shield/blobs of metal on it. Clean and shiney...
Pretty much the only time you'll see that is when welding ally with AC or the torch has been plugged in to the wrong socket. If it's a grey/manky colour without a blob of weld metal on the end it'll be from shielding problems.
AFAIK a Clarke 131 is a scratch TIG i.e. need to physically strike an arc by touching down. Learning to do this without contaminating the tungsten is a skill in of itself and not one to try and learn while grovelling around trying to weld up a rusty van
White colour code is zirconiated tungsten designed for use with AC welding ally. It's very unlikely to be the sole cause of your problems but it ain't gonna help
As said TIG is the least tolerant of dirt and contamination. Getting bits of rusty old cars/vans clean enough to stand a chance ain't the quickest or easiest job, even mill scale on new metal is enough to cause massive problems when learning
) but if someone's nicked the macro button (flower icon) off your camera you'll struggle to get a good close up that's in focus.A selection of contaminated tungstens courtesy of the TIG tutorials (4th from top is what they should look like)...
They've all been contaminated with stainless by the looks of things, mild steel tends to be greyer/mankier colourwise. Don't always get a big blob like in the pic
This is what the tip looks like when it melts back without being contaminated from loss of gas shield/blobs of metal on it. Clean and shiney...
Pretty much the only time you'll see that is when welding ally with AC or the torch has been plugged in to the wrong socket. If it's a grey/manky colour without a blob of weld metal on the end it'll be from shielding problems.
AFAIK a Clarke 131 is a scratch TIG i.e. need to physically strike an arc by touching down. Learning to do this without contaminating the tungsten is a skill in of itself and not one to try and learn while grovelling around trying to weld up a rusty van
White colour code is zirconiated tungsten designed for use with AC welding ally. It's very unlikely to be the sole cause of your problems but it ain't gonna help
As said TIG is the least tolerant of dirt and contamination. Getting bits of rusty old cars/vans clean enough to stand a chance ain't the quickest or easiest job, even mill scale on new metal is enough to cause massive problems when learning
billthedrill
New Member
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Yes defo contamination it's a old van gowing to use mig insted tig but had sum fun trying to get it.
thare good enugh for wat i want i have sum new steel to weld next time make it cleen and no wind more gass.
Thank's for the help.
thare good enugh for wat i want i have sum new steel to weld next time make it cleen and no wind more gass.
Thank's for the help.
Lawnmowerboy
Member
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- 2,165
The metal will need to be not only physically clean (no rust or paint) but 100% grease and water free, I've had a lot of problems with soluble coolant and tig.
