rtbcomp
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The ceramic nozzles supplied with these blasting pots wear out very quickly, the solution is to replace them with easily obtainable tungsten carbide ones. This is how I did it
In the picture below we have, left to right, top to bottom.
1) Tungsten carbide nozzle, 10mm OD, 3mm ID and 52 mm long
2) Oilve from a 10 mm compression fitting (Screwfix 35490). Use the fitting as a tool to fit the oilive to the nozzle.
3) 3/8 BSP compression nut, the hole may need reaming out very slightly.
4) 3/8 BSPP (parallel) nickel plated brass barrel nipple
5) Steel tube, 10mm OD 1mm thick and just longer than the nipple
The above items will allow the new nozzle to fit into the existing ball valve on the end of the hose, if like me you've dispensed with the valve, the following items will allow the nozzle to fit into the hose itself. If you have a 10mm ID hose just shove the nozzle up it and secure with a Jubilee clip.
4a) 14mm - 3/8 BSP mickel plated brass hose tail.
5a) Steel tube, 10mm OD 1mm thick and just longer than the hose tail.
This is what you do.
1) Secure the olive onto the end of the nozzle. Do this in two stages
a) Insert the nozzle into the compression fitting as you would a piece of pipe. Tighten the nut just sufficiently to allow the olive to slide up and down the nozzle with moderate finger pressure, i.e. it will stay put.
b) Push the olive to the very end of the nozzle, put it back in the fitting and tighten fully. See the next picture.
Next we need to line the nipple or hose tail as appropiate. I did this by sliding the tube into the fitting and peening each end over with a hammer. Try to get the nozzle end as flat and as flush, or even recessed into the countersink, as you can.
You may need to open up the hole in the 3/8 compression nut slightly, the nozzle should be able to turn freely in it.
To prolong the life of the steel sleeve, turn the fitting through 180 deg. occasionally, it wears down one side rather than uniformly.
This chap is selling nozzles on Ebay http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/pete_booth
In the picture below we have, left to right, top to bottom.
1) Tungsten carbide nozzle, 10mm OD, 3mm ID and 52 mm long
2) Oilve from a 10 mm compression fitting (Screwfix 35490). Use the fitting as a tool to fit the oilive to the nozzle.
3) 3/8 BSP compression nut, the hole may need reaming out very slightly.
4) 3/8 BSPP (parallel) nickel plated brass barrel nipple
5) Steel tube, 10mm OD 1mm thick and just longer than the nipple
The above items will allow the new nozzle to fit into the existing ball valve on the end of the hose, if like me you've dispensed with the valve, the following items will allow the nozzle to fit into the hose itself. If you have a 10mm ID hose just shove the nozzle up it and secure with a Jubilee clip.
4a) 14mm - 3/8 BSP mickel plated brass hose tail.
5a) Steel tube, 10mm OD 1mm thick and just longer than the hose tail.
This is what you do.
1) Secure the olive onto the end of the nozzle. Do this in two stages
a) Insert the nozzle into the compression fitting as you would a piece of pipe. Tighten the nut just sufficiently to allow the olive to slide up and down the nozzle with moderate finger pressure, i.e. it will stay put.
b) Push the olive to the very end of the nozzle, put it back in the fitting and tighten fully. See the next picture.
Next we need to line the nipple or hose tail as appropiate. I did this by sliding the tube into the fitting and peening each end over with a hammer. Try to get the nozzle end as flat and as flush, or even recessed into the countersink, as you can.
You may need to open up the hole in the 3/8 compression nut slightly, the nozzle should be able to turn freely in it.
To prolong the life of the steel sleeve, turn the fitting through 180 deg. occasionally, it wears down one side rather than uniformly.
This chap is selling nozzles on Ebay http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/pete_booth
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