Winch cabling safety

[rcx132]

I'm prety concerned with the winch wiring on my Vitara. There's no fuse, it's using spiral wrap to sheath the cable, and the cable is silicone insulated. I don't think winches are supposed to be fused, but couple that with the weak insulation and it's a fire hazard. The winch has some sort of safety device which temporarily cuts out if the current draw is too high, I forget what it's called, it came with the winch.

Can I fuse the winch? I think they draw huge currents though. And suggestions for what to sheath the cables with? I originally used the spiral wrap because it can be fitted in situ and allows easy modding of the cabling and at the time I was adding other things to the cable bunch like diff breathers and difflock air lines. But now it's all done and working I need something safer.

 

[Migmac]

the winch on my truck has a switch in the cab which is wired onto this, don't know what it's called, if the power is left switched on and the winch is not used it melts. I suppose it stops the risk of a fire. My winch isn't fused

 

[500e]

Superwinch X Series


Collections:

Field Tested
Made in the USA by Superwinch. Superwinch X-Series, the winch that started it all. Compact and stylish, the X line is as popular today as ever.
A rugged gearbox and simple direct motor-mounted switching mechanism make these winches an economical and reliable choice. The X1 has a rated line pull of 2000 pounds, a 1.8 hp motor, differential planetary gearing and a dynamic breaking action.
Legend for it's multiple use and "built like they used to" quality, the X1 is up for the job, be it on a trailer, on a boat trailer, around the shop or in the field. Superwinch X1 is ready to be your pulling partner.


Specifications

• X1
• X1F
• X2
• X3

X1 (p/n 1101)

Rated Line Pull 2,000 lbs (907 kgs)
Motor 1.8 HP (1.34 kw) Series Wound
Gearing Differential Planetary
Gear Ratio 123:1
Solenoid Solenoid & Circuit Breaker Protected
Clutch Tensioner
Brake Dynamic
Rope Wire 3/16" x 25' (4.8mm x 7.6m)
Hook

 

[Robotstar5]

I've had a Warn M8000 fitted to a couple of Land Rovers and didn't have fuse protection. I did fit a key operated motorsport type isolator near the battery feed to the winch. Any cables I wanted to protect, I fitted rubber hose (airline?) either slid over or slit to fit.

Edit: Found a photo of the winch in action on the Lady Megan stage in Wales. It took 2 of us almost 6 hours to recover the car as we had to jack & pack it over tree stumps all the way up, finally got it onto a trailer about midnight!.

 

[rcx132]

I've had a Warn M8000 fitted to a couple of Land Rovers and didn't have fuse protection. I did fit a key operated motorsport type isolator near the battery feed to the winch. Any cables I wanted to protect, I fitted rubber hose (airline?) either slid over or slit to fit.

Edit: Found a photo of the winch in action on the Lady Megan stage in Wales. It took 2 of us almost 6 hours to recover the car as we had to jack & pack it over tree stumps all the way up, finally got it onto a trailer about midnight!.

View attachment 109835

Thats an idea, I could fit an isolation switch, so the wiring is dead until needed, at least then someone is at the car if the winch wiring shorts out.

What happened in that photo?

 

[Robotstar5]

Thats an idea, I could fit an isolation switch, so the wiring is dead until needed, at least then someone is at the car if the winch wiring shorts out.

What happened in that photo?

Rally stage in Wales, car went off on the outside of a bend and down about 50 metres, the tree stumps stopped him going all the way to the bottom of the valley unlike another competitor . At the time I was a licensed MSA recovery operator, most of the time it was usually a simple tow out to the end of the stage, but occasionally it would be a "proper job" to recover a car.

 

[winchman]

During the time I spent selling and fixing winches I saw very few correct installations.

I personally would use a battery isolator either the race type or large relay so the winch is only live when needed.
This is ideal
https://www.firstfour.co.uk/albright-su280-isolator-250a.html

Cables should be as short as possible and routed or protected against mechanical damage.
Clean and oil / grease your winch and unreal the wire rope a few times a year to check for damage and lube it.

 

[Xup]

Use one of these as close to the battery as possible on mine so the winch is only live when needed.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-24v-M...ITCH-ON-OFF-/221632891109?hash=item339a5988e5

My Beast

 

[skotl]

Thats an idea, I could fit an isolation switch, so the wiring is dead until needed, at least then someone is at the car if the winch wiring shorts out...?

Exactly that. I'd fuse it as well, to be honest, but the switch is a must.

 

[WorkshopChris]

Exactly that. I'd fuse it as well, to be honest, but the switch is a must.

The isolator switch is also a good back up in the event of the relay contacts welding together you can still stop the winch.

 

[Robotstar5]

The isolator stops the "crush a 4x4" trick too, I won't say how it's done on an open forum.

 

[Jim Davey]

The isolator stops the "crush a 4x4" trick too, I won't say how it's done on an open forum.

I can imagine...

 

[Mikey D]

The whinch I have on my low loader trailer is fused at 200 amps , it's 24 volt tho and a 5 tonne (ish) capacity .id befinstly have it fused for peace of mind .

 

[Tinbasherdan]

The isolator stops the "crush a 4x4" trick too, I won't say how it's done on an open forum.

crush a 4x4? whats that then? ive no doubt heard of it, just not under that name!

and a winch will draw up to 500a if working really hard, thats a big old fuse as others have said, a decent heavy duty isolator is the thing for them

 

[Jim Davey]

I'm guessing you unwind some cable from the winch, pass it over the roof then connect the hook to the rear tow hitch or a suitably strong bit of chassis/suspension. If you activate the winch you'll do a pretty good job of crushing some poor bugger's roof.

I'm only speculating mind...

 

[Mee]

You can get the fuse boxes rated for them but only use the correct box with the bolt in type fuses and endure you carry spare fuses and a spanner to unbolt them.

I would also suggest mounting the solenoid under the bonnet if possible to protect it from the elements, and if you have the room then mount a second battery as near to the winch as possible with a split charger as I have seem too many bodged installations where they use a single battery and the vehicle cuts out during heavy winching due to a battery being run flat by the winch.

 

[Mee]

I cured all these issues by going hydraulic.

 

[Mikey D]

The large capacity bolt in fuses are called 'mega fuses ' btw

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Durite do fuses up to 700amp and carriers to house them in various IP ratings. They are good bits of kit. Draw back is the case can yellow.

I have used the 400amp ones when working on a Pallfinger lorry loader. If your local Truck parts supplier does not have them they can order them in for next day. Plus with suitable cables and crimps.

 

[8ob]

Isolator is a must, I have had a solenoid lock in and its only the isolator that stopped a nasty accident occurring . I have never understood the fascination in fitting a winch to the front of a vehicle. If things go mammaries vertical and you need a winch would you want to pull yourself further into it or back out? I have found a rear mounted winch far more useful especially if combined with spades like the one tucked in above the towbar on my landy cherrypicker. Another vote for hydraulic, you can get them to run off the power steering pump now which saves messing with PTO`s.

Bob