240V Angle grinder switch electrical help pls

[Noods]

Hi all..

Been building this chop style saw it’s 90% finished and yes it will have its guard fitted but in this pic i’m making adjustments to ensure squareness etc..

An electrical Q .. The Angle grinder is an Eraubaur which is Screwfix s own brand and very good i must say..
My issue is as it is i have to turn it on via its red switch which is awkward, i would like to have a push on off machine switch box flush mounted, i’ve fitted many before without issues but i’ve no idea ( if it’s poss) to override the safety trigger switch that’s fitted on the grinder, it won’t start for example by toggling the plug switch, you have to switch the red toggle off before you can start it again..

Any ideas please…

 

[Agroshield]

Open it up and see how the switch is connected. Temporarily connect the mains directly to the two wires exiting the switch (chocolate block connector would do) and see if it behaves as you wish. If it does, the NVR is fully within the switch; if not, it might be more difficult.

Make sure whatever upstream switch you install has the same NVR capability to the one you bypass.

 

[Noods]

Open it up and see how the switch is connected. Temporarily connect the mains directly to the two wires exiting the switch (chocolate block connector would do) and see if it behaves as you wish. If it does, the NVR is fully within the switch; if not, it might be more difficult.

Make sure whatever upstream switch you install has the same NVR capability to the one you bypass.

Thanks mte..
Is NVR no volt release ?

 

[Noods]

I will take pics of the grinders interior as well..

 

[6ply]

Thanks mte..
Is NVR no volt release ?

Yes. Perhaps it has some other electronics too, such as soft start?

 

[charliecambs]

None of my grinders have built in NVR ( good idea though!) but i wouldn't be connecting live & neutral to the two wires exiting the switch as it may be single pole?
NVR is usually magnetic latching relay on saw tables etc.

 

[Anguz]

If you intend to keep the grind in the frame, and not use hand held, possibly better to extend the wires and relocate the switch

 

[Noods]

I’ve stripped it as far as i can get it currently but to me after seeing the blue and brown wires coming in the seem to disappear under the plastic to the red trigger switch.. ?

Below is a close up of the left side

The left side below

The right side

The top side

 

[Noods]

If you intend to keep the grind in the frame, and not use hand held, possibly better to extend the wires and relocate the switch

Yes mate i do intend to keep it in the frame..

 

[Anguz]

Looks similar to one i havehad apart... sort of linkage rod with the switch at the cable entry end of the body

 

[Dragnet]

If you can pull out the black rectangle on the left of your final picture you might find that's a double or triple suppression capacitor, which would be X2 and Y2 rated for connection to the live and neutral, which will give you a lead on where they go. Have you tried a continuity test between those exposed lucar connectors and the pins on the plug? If you get something, draw out the circuit as you go which will help in working out where you might wire in using existing connections if you intend to relocate the switch somewhere more useful.

The next thing I'd try is releasing what look like clips in that red moulded piece below the connectors in your last picture. It looks like it's clipped at the top and retained at the bottom, so releasing those clips could allow you to pivot the red cover off. That might expose the switch's innards.

 

[Agroshield]

Have you tried a continuity test between those exposed lucar connectors and the pins on the plug?

I might be misunderstanding what you are suggesting here. A continuity test between anything on the input to the switch and the anything on the output of the switch might be inconclusive. In the 'off' position, either one or both input wires will be open circuit. In the 'on' position, because of the no-volt release, either one or both will be open circuit. I suspect they would use a double pole switch (as it guards against someone wiring up live and neutral incorrectly, either in the cord, the plug or the socket) so a double blank in both positions is the most likely outcome.

The continuity test would allow you to trace the circuit back from the brushes to the switch and back from the windings to the switch. On the grinder side of the switch, there are only four wires that need power: two brushes and two ends to the winding.

Pulling out the suppression cap would allow us to see the writing on it to confirm.

 

[Dragnet]

Yes, you could well be right. I like doing continuity tests in conjunction with sketching out a circuit to check there's not an unexpected connection before I start removing plastic clips. Sometimes it turns out they don't need to be removed, and there's always the risk of frustrating breakage! I don't know how the no-volt release works in these and what it requires. One of the brush connections appears to have a lot of heat-shrink covered pieces in series with it, that seem excessive to be merely insulated crimp linkages.