- Thread starter Daz1968
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pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Green is faster drying than red and has a shorter work time, white is slowest. They all do the job just slower stoppers seem to shrink less. I tend to use whatever the shop is selling at the time.
Ok thanks, might order some red, I bought some upol gold but find on cellulose primer it is much harder than the primer and its far to easy to remove the primer before flatting the stopper. I have got car as best as I could then applied a couple of coats of primer and a guide coat, now have been flatting with p320 dry and going to put stopper in any imperfections, then put on another coat, guide coat then flat with p500, not sure if its the best way but a lot of the problems are flatting out in the primer so only have a few small bits to do. It's my first time with a full respray so still in the learning stage so any pointers are welcome.
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Are you flatting wet or dry ? stopper should only be used for minor scratches pin holes, pedrobedro is correct slow stopper shrinks less due to evaporation time.
Flatting with 320 would be something our shop would not do at that stage of paint,( guide coat is really last before top coats) remember every mark you put in you have to remove, once you are removing guide cote 600, would be the roughest we would have used, we all ways wet flatted but I understand a lot of shops work dry nowadays, remember if you wet flat primer it can absorb water, are you using block to flat, hand flatting requires more feel\skill.
You are on the correct path it is all about knowing your material
Flatting with 320 would be something our shop would not do at that stage of paint,( guide coat is really last before top coats) remember every mark you put in you have to remove, once you are removing guide cote 600, would be the roughest we would have used, we all ways wet flatted but I understand a lot of shops work dry nowadays, remember if you wet flat primer it can absorb water, are you using block to flat, hand flatting requires more feel\skill.
You are on the correct path it is all about knowing your material
langy
langys rodshop
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Are you using a block to flat, if not you should be
Yes using a block, although only about 6 inches long as I flatted any filled areas with a 2 foot flat block before primer so am only flatting primer and checking for small imperfections which surprisingly I don't have many, was going to flat with p500 dry after I know its all flat, it is only a mini so not many areas flat enough for a bigger block to be honest. Think I will order some red stopper and see how it sands I only have a few small uneven bits mainly pin holes and small scratches in the filler.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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I flat acrylic stopper with 400 dry on a little rubber bump stop I found on the street, dead handy for small areas.
ronan
Member
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What about on areas with double curvatures ? Would using a block not be too risky in those areas ?
I was told to block flat in an x pattern and on curved areas just follow the profile, not always easy but awkward areas can be done with a foam pad on the block enabling the paper to follow the shape. I am using Murca abranet paper and find it very good. Hopefully when I have finished this one I can tackle another mini I have but hoping to be more practiced by the time I get to that one.
langy
langys rodshop
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