Acetal/Nylon or something else to punch on to?

[Beanwood]

I punch holes in stuff !

More specifically, I use an arbor press with two 4mm hollow leather punches on a bracket to cut holes in plastic coated nylon.
It works really well, but I need a base to cut onto, and I want something that won't blunt the cutters - so steel etc is out.
I have tried using wood - but it gets chewed up quickly.
I tried a cheap chopping board - but the press just pushes holes straight into the board.
I was wondering if there's something a bit tougher that might suit the purpose?

Ideally the cutting base needs to be about 100mm long, 30-40mm wide and 5-10mm deep.

Does anyone have experience of the best material for this please? I was thinking nylon or acetal - but don't honestly know why.
Would brass be a better thing - or would that dull the sharp edges?

 

[MattF]

I have tried using wood - but it gets chewed up quickly.

Hardwood or softwood?

 

[Wildefalcon]

Copper? Bamboo? Even lead?

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

I have used an upturned biscuit tin lid that had been filled with molten lead in the past.

 

[Agroshield]

I have tried using wood - but it gets chewed up quickly.

Endgrain or cross grain? Endgrain should be more robust, but not in 5mm depth. Easy to renew a worn surface with a disk/belt sander.

If it is the same material each time, set a depth stop on the press and then you will not penetrate the base. If the punch traps a rizla between itself and the base, it should be OK.

With something too soft, it will compress with the punch force, and then spring back when the punch breaks through, driving itself onto the punch.

Maybe try soft aluminium or copper. If they are only 4mm punches, a flattened out piece of 15mm water pipe could do, and it is easily annealed.

 

[Beanwood]

I’ve tried endgrain hardwood, and the force of the punch is just biting into it by too much.

I like the idea of copper though - and I have a piece of flattened water pipe in readiness for trying to extract a broken bolt using weld - but I can try it for this first!

Thanks all

 

[8ob]

I have used an upturned biscuit tin lid that had been filled with molten lead in the past.

That makes sense, if you own a blowtorch the work surface has an infinite life. Consider that idea stolen.

Bob

 

[Beanwood]

Update- copper works quite well- and shows the difference in lengths of the two cutters with one piercing the sheet whilst the other not quite cutting through the material.
Next thing is to try annealing the copper whilst seeing if I can find any lead lying around. And of course levelling up the punches.

 

[keithski122]

Hockey puck.

 

[Beanwood]

Hockey puck.

What are they made from?

 

[keithski122]

What are they made from?

I'm not sure but they have a rubbery coating,( a quick check and they are rubber). At work we have lead slabs for hand punching in leather and vinyl but for smaller holes(up to 20mm) I prefer my hockey puck as its less likely to damage my punches(only cheap ones). Its not something I came up with on my own but found recommended online (not always right).

 

[m_c]

I've never used it, but I'm aware polyurethane is used in some press applications.

 

[Erie Fred]

Steel rule die is the same method, I'm sure there is a backer board made just for it.

 

[Beanwood]

Steel rule die is the same method, I'm sure there is a backer board made just for it.

Sorry @Erie Fred any idea what the backer is made from?

 

[slim_boy_fat]

...whilst seeing if I can find any lead lying around.

How far to the nearest church?

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

I've never used it, but I'm aware polyurethane is used in some press applications.

Polyurethane is good for impact stamping and die cutting of sheet metal. For a knife-shaped punch, a UHMWPE substrate will, IMHO, be the most resistant.

 

[Beanwood]

Polyurethane is good for impact stamping and die cutting of sheet metal. For a knife-shaped punch, a UHMWPE substrate will, IMHO, be the most resistant.

Thanks @Sergei Slovenija - I presumed my cheap chopping boards were also made from this, but I'm thinking maybe they're not...

 

[Screwdriver]

If the setup is rigid enough, use a 4mm die under the punch or a couple of holes in a steel plate for multiple punches.

 

[Beanwood]

If the setup is rigid enough, use a 4mm die under the punch or a couple of holes in a steel plate for multiple punches.

I’m wondering about that- I may experiment some more using the copper base that I managed to put a hole through. It’s an arbor press, so not exactly precision engineering- I’ll need to devise a better method of holding the bottom board in place

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

Thanks @Sergei Slovenija - I presumed my cheap chopping boards were also made from this, but I'm thinking maybe they're not...

Cheap cutting boards are made from HDPE, which is why they are cheap.