Advice Please.

[HSGB]

Hello all,

I just wondered if anyone can advise me about sorting out some rust areas on a moondust silver ford focus.
The areas are all the usual, arches, under wing mirrors, tailgate where glass was not put in correctly, and along the sills.

Thing is, I have some acid etch primer and was going to by some moondust silver base coat and some clear coat. I have now been reading about
2K and how hideous it is, so don't want to really use that now (don't want to risk a ordinary mask, and don't have the facilities for an air mask).
Anyway, I was also going to buy the SRi Pro gun with a 1.2 fluid tip and trans tech cap, this would suit my compressor as the specs state:

Air consumption - 3.5 cfm @ 30 psi.

Anyone have any comments on this gun? I don't want it for whole resprays, just panels, small areas etc.

Basically what I wanted to know was, what would be the best type of paint to use as a base coat and also as a clear coat?
I have been told that for best quality always use a 2K High Solid clear as the others are crap and 1K air dry clears are rubbish dont use.
What do you lot think?

Thank you.

 

[Keith1200]

2k paint will poison you!!! Don't use unless you have air breathing facilities! however there is no reason why you can't brush it one! In fact don't bother with 2k without proper facilities. 1k is for plant machinery or council vans.

Cellulose is your best bet, however here's the problem;

your car will likely have two coats; 1) base (2k/cell or water) 2) top coat (laquar)

 

[HSGB]

Cellulose is your best bet, however here's the problem;

your car will likely have two coats; 1) base (2k/cell or water) 2) top coat (laquar)

I don't understand, why is that a problem...What do you mean? The paint is prior to water based, so I presume ford where using 2K seven years ago.

 

[Keith1200]

If you believe it's 2k? go for it. Probably better trying a Ford site for the information you need

 

[danelectro]

If you believe it's 2k? go for it. Probably better trying a Ford site for the information you need

Keith, what are you saying he should do???? Not sure I understand how a ford site is going to help here????

In answer to the question, I'm thinking the SRi will be fine for what you're doing. I believe you can still get 1 Pack Clearcoat which is a safe alternative.
I know ICI (now Nexa) used to do it, but I haven't used it for years! so not sure if it's still available
It's easy to work with, won't kill you, and is a breeze to polish afterwards.

As for the basecoat, this is usually just a cellulose BASED paint, so no hardener is used, just thinners, so again it won't kill you!!



Hope this helps!

 

[Keith1200]

merely a passing comment, what I would do! speak to other ford owner's of the same model or time period model(s) . I would guess someone from a Ford club would probably know.

 

[HSGB]

Probably better trying a Ford site for the information you need

No Ford site is going to tell me any answers to any of my questions. I thought there were decent sprayers here who would know straight away the best methods to sort these rust areas out, preferably without having to use 2K, although it is a far superior paint from what I understand.

I just want something more permanent than those pathetic spray cans that I have been using to keep it at bay, until I organized something better. Now I want to organize a more permanent method, I thought someone would know the best route to take. I am not worried about a perfect professional job, as long as it is respectable and keeps the rust at bay. Not hard to achieve considering Fords garbage spray jobs I should have thought.

My Ford van which is newer has water based on it. It is really thin and delicate, all you have to do is fart next too it and it will chip!

 

[danelectro]

merely a passing comment, what I would do! speak to other ford owner's of the same model or time period model(s) . I would guess someone from a Ford club would probably know.

With respect, what questions would they answer???? Sorry I don't understand where you're coming from.

HGSB - See my previous post

 

[HSGB]

danelectro, thank you that is more of the type of answer I was looking for.

Do you know if the 1K clearcoat yellows greatly, and whether it is hardy and durable?

Thanks.

 

[danelectro]

Alternatively, (unless you're going to use the gun a lot) have you thought about the rattle can direction? I know it's not the perfect answer, but with time and a care you can get some good results if you just want to tidy your car up???

 

[danelectro]

danelectro, thank you that is more of the type of answer I was looking for.

Do you know if the 1K clearcoat yellows greatly, and whether it is hardy and durable?

Thanks.

My pleasure

In answer to your question, I've never personally experienced yellowing. as for durablilty, well it's not the best, so you can't expect it to be as good as 2k. I guess it depends on how long you're intending to keep the car, if you just want to tidy it up for sale, 1k is the best route, but if you want to get a few more years out of it, I'd probably say do the prep work your self, then take it to a friendly bodyshop to blow the paint on.

The biggest issue with rusty bits, is not generally the paint, it's normally poor prep, and damp conditions. but we all know, killing rust is a never ending job!!!

 

[HSGB]

What do you think of this stuff Danelectro:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/U-POL-1K-Clea...-/260475061834?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint

 

[danelectro]

What do you think of this stuff Danelectro:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/U-POL-1K-Clea...-/260475061834?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint

Hi mate,

Well I haven't used it myself, but from reading the spec it looks like much the same as the ICI stuff, also U-pol do some good products, so I think you'd be ok there. It also says it's UV stable, so in theory this should be ok regarding yellowing

Your main area to focus on, is the killing of the rust, I have used Ku-rust before now (a bit like jenolite), and so far so good, it's like a clear solution that converts the rust into a sort of chemical blacked steel. Someone else may give you some ideas on other products, I can only go on my experience!!

All you have to remember is when rectifying rusted areas, once you have killed it, you need to get it covered asap. also, be aware that most normal cellulose primers are porous, so when you wet flat the primer, be aware that this moisture COULD penetrate through to the base metal.

As for your bascoat, if you want it to be an invisible repair you may have to paint the panels either side of the repair, it's pretty much impossible to match a metallic panel to panel.
Example: Let's take the rust under the mirror, it's close to the front wing, and the basecoat will (without doubt) reach the gap between the door and wing. So my advice (remember, only if you want an invisible repair) would be to scotchbrite the wing also, apply the basecoat onto the repair to cover it, then fade out the basecoat through the wing, then when the colour is uniform, lacquer both the door and the wing.

Hope that makes sense!!

 

[richard s]

i used to do smart repairs using water based base coat and the 1k laquer and the 1k stuff used to flat and polish to a nice finish and dries really fast

 

[HSGB]

Right, here I am 5 months later and stil haven't organized anything yet!

Bought the Silverline spraygun, the gun is crap but my compressor runs it easy. That was worth it for a test of my compressor capabilities.

Need to clarify a few things. My focus paint is? It is on a 2001 plate. So would it be 2K or waterbased? The laquer will be 2K. I do not have the capabilities to use 2K and don't want top risk death at the moment so, was wondering if I can use Cellulose to blow in my arches?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-x-1-litre-Ford-Moondust-SILVER-Cellulose-Car-Paint-/280361335915?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4146d67c6b

I have some Upol Acid Etch Prmer for the bare metal, then the cellulose basecoat. Because it is metallic, would you use Upol IK Clearcoat?

What does anyone think?

Thanks.

 

[jaykay]

you will need a hi build primer after the etch.

 

[paintpot]

once you have derusted your panels,http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...oductId_188705_langId_-1_categoryId_165594put this on
do as it says on the can .Then put your etch on .Let dry ,and the put on your two pack primer,Get your self a 3m mask .Yes its isocyanate but you are not going to die.You have more chance of getting run over by a bus.The upol lacquer looks good ,we use the to pack version on sale cars.Yes your ford is water based.Its not going to make any difference what you put on.and as for sri gun its no good for full panel repaints ,only for spot repairs .So that would of been a waist of money.The sprayers at the over end of our body shop use them as they do smart repair.If you need input ask these people
http://www.morelli.co.uk/

 

[HSGB]

as for sri gun its no good for full panel repaints ,only for spot repairs

Yes I know, but small items/single panels are probably what I will be doing, so I did consider it. I am on the verge of buying the Devilbiss FLG-5 gun now. Don't know if you have anything to say on that gun?

and the put on your two pack primer,Get your self a 3m mask .Yes its isocyanate but you are not going to die.You have more chance of getting run over by a bus.

Don't know whether I can do that now as I have been totally terrorized by the stuff I have read on the internet concerning 2K inhalation. Don't know whether it is hype or true but, it has got my cheeks quivering reading about it.

 

[paintpot]

have not used the devilbiss flg-5 looked it up on spray gun direct looks a good gun .price 79pounds.as for your concerns about 2k inhalations.Yes its not good for you to breathe
it in .Its for sprayers like me who spray 8 hours a day for 30 years now.I Use proper air fed mask,Had a lung test every year .Every thing working perfect.You are spraying now and then.Like i said get your self a good cartridge mask.i no over sprayers will disagree with me ,but they have all done it.