Air body saw.

[Cobbler]

Some time ago I bought one of the SIP reciprocating body saws, I’d did what I wanted at the time, but it was pretty useless really. I have just got it out again ...... it’s still pretty crap, the blades jam & it stalls. Are they all poor, is it the blades that are bad & need better blades or what. I know it wasn’t a lot of money & it works to a fashion but are some better than others.

 

[steveo3002]

had them at work that seem to run pretty much ok, is your air supply up to it?

 

[Cobbler]

had them at work that seem to run pretty much ok, is your air supply up to it?

Yes it isn’t an air problem. It could just be a rubbish one, I got it from Toolstation, the first didn’t work at all & had to go back. It’s possible I’m expecting too much, the metal I’m trying to cut is about 2mm thick, I wouldn’t have used it, but it’s the only thing I can get in.

 

[stuvy]

Mines a Mac one as the body is smaller than the snap on one and it’s flawless

 

[Gareth0123]

I've owned a Universal Tools air panel saw since 2003. Had used a works supplied one at various employers for the previous 23 years and decided to get one for myself.

They need regular oiling and the will take normal 12" shatterproof hacksaw blades which work exceptionally well in them. The trick is to centre the blade with the two clamping screws; one either side

 

[500e]

Would have thought 2mm was pushing it we used Cengar for body work always us ed Bi-metal blades & relieved the backs 50%. it was a good tool I think CIP were the only other make at the time
Remember it is not moving the blade far so wear is fast A bit like oscillating multi tools.
Never tried a reciprocating\sabre saw think there is more blade movement
This is a newer version of the one we used it was expensive at the time

 

[Cobbler]

[QUOTE="Gareth0123, post: 1618715, member: 24328"They need regular oiling and the will take normal 12" shatterproof hacksaw blades which work exceptionally well in them. The trick is to centre the blade with the two clamping screws; one either side[/QUOTE]

I don’t think it would have the power to use a hacksaw blade, I’ll try it next time I need it. It’s not something I use often, it’s a once in a blue moon thing, not my “go to”tool. It seems to me that the blades I’ve got have insufficient set on them so they jam up.

 

[RonA]

I echo Cobblers comments on using bimetal hacksaw blades, much better (& cheaper). The guard must be square upto the panel otherwise the saw just flaps around in the breeze.
RonA

 

[badabec]

I have a Desoutter saw. I chop a bimetal hacksaw into 3 inch lengths and use that. I found the cheapo shaped blades useless.

 

[500e]

@Cobbler said
" I don’t think it would have the power to use a hacksaw blade, I’ll try it next time I need it. It’s not something I use often, it’s a once in a blue moon thing, not my “go to”tool. It seems to me that the blades I’ve got have insufficient set on them so they jam up".
As
@Gareth0123
Said oil is good you can see the oil reservoir on the back above air inlet + It used a Lot of air
We ran the Cengars with Hacksaw blades that was all there was at the time we ground back of blades down 50% minimum could follow a tighter curve & as said in post #6 Bi-Metal was the only way to go.
Have cut a car in 2 with ours more than once

 

[Shox Dr]

As 500e says. Bi metal hacksaw blade, cut to a taper. Teeth facing towards the tool

 

[Cobbler]

I will try your various suggestions, thanks

 

[Gareth0123]

I've cut through several corroded 8.8 BZP M16 and M20 nuts and bolts in a coldstore at-22°C with my air saw fitted with a 13tpi hacksaw blade, when they wouldn't issue me with a hot work permit.

 

[Cobbler]

Just tried it with a broken end of a hacksaw blade, it seems to do much better with that than the proper blades. I will cut some bits down as you suggested. Thanks

 

[RWD3M]

And keep the nose of the tool firmly against the workpiece.

I was using Cengar saws the best part of 40 years ago in aircraft battle damage repair training and proper support of the tool is essential to performance. I'm not for one moment suggesting you are using it incorrectly but pretty much every time I see these saws being used in TV programmes you see exactly the same thing, the tool bouncing around as much as the clown using it!

 

[Cobbler]

I think a lot of the problem is the blades I’ve got have little or no set, this means that the blade was jamming in the cut. They were cheap blades, maybe that is the problem, it certainly worked better when I tried a broken bit of hacksaw blade as suggested. I am aware you have to keep it pressed against the work, I use a large reciprocating saw quite often & if you don’t keep it tight it will throw you all over the place. I don’t think the saw is the best, it was dirt cheap & a rebadged Chinese import, it was originally bought to do one job, & it did it.