Hi everyone I have a Clark SE16 with a 150 ltr tank and when I turn it on it gushes air from the power switch area it will eventually cut out as it should but is running again in no time because it is losing air pressure, Do I need to replace the complete box and is repair a job I could handle myself many thanks Chris
- Thread starter chrisf1
- Start date
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
- Messages
- 5,807
- Location
- Glapwell, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK
Make sure your one way valve in to the main tank is sealing properly first, l end up buy a new pressure switch assembly and it turned out to be the main one way valve not sealing correctly.
Alan Reynolds
Member
- Messages
- 1,277
It may not be the switch, it may be air escaping from the unloader valve in the switch. This could be caused by the non return valve not sealing.
If you follow the pipe from the compressor head, it will go to a union that goes into the air receiver (Tank). This contains the non return valve and can be opened by undoing the end. Inside is a spring and valve seat. It could be dirty or perished.
Off of this non return valve is a thinner pipe that goes off to the switch unit and on the end of this is you will find the unloader valve.
How the compressor works is: the compressor unit pumps up the air receiver to a preset pressure, at which point the switch operates from the pressure in the receiver and shuts off the power.
As it does this, the switch operates a pin on the unloader valve and releases the standing pressure in the compressor head so that when it restarts, it's not trying to overcome full pressure because the non return valve is keeping the pressure in the pipe.
Sometimes the diaphragm in the switch does fail but it's more often the non return valve or the unloader valve.
I think that's right
If you follow the pipe from the compressor head, it will go to a union that goes into the air receiver (Tank). This contains the non return valve and can be opened by undoing the end. Inside is a spring and valve seat. It could be dirty or perished.
Off of this non return valve is a thinner pipe that goes off to the switch unit and on the end of this is you will find the unloader valve.
How the compressor works is: the compressor unit pumps up the air receiver to a preset pressure, at which point the switch operates from the pressure in the receiver and shuts off the power.
As it does this, the switch operates a pin on the unloader valve and releases the standing pressure in the compressor head so that when it restarts, it's not trying to overcome full pressure because the non return valve is keeping the pressure in the pipe.
Sometimes the diaphragm in the switch does fail but it's more often the non return valve or the unloader valve.
I think that's right
Alan Reynolds
Member
- Messages
- 1,277
Apologies zzr1200, you posted while I was typing! Great mind eh?
WorkshopChris
Member
- Messages
- 5,049
- Location
- South East Essex
Also look for any splits in the 6mm (or close to ) pipe that runs from between the switch and the non return valve.
M.F.
Member
- Messages
- 55
- Location
- Lancashire
If air is coming out from the unloader mechanism on the pressure switch whilst the compressor is running and charging, then surely it must be the unloader mechanism/pressure switch as the pipe from the one way valve to the unloader would be pressurised regardless of the condition of the one way valve.
If the leak continues after the compressor has reached pressure and unloaded, then the one way valve is at fault.
If the leak continues after the compressor has reached pressure and unloaded, then the one way valve is at fault.
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
^^ +1 When the compressor is running the unloader valve is held closed by air pressure, so if it's leaking under these conditions it is faulty. Once the compressor stops it opens and emits a brief hiss. If air continues to flow it's the non-return valve, as said above.
It could also be a punctured diaphragm in the pressure switch, it which case it will leak all the time.
It could also be a punctured diaphragm in the pressure switch, it which case it will leak all the time.
also meant to say if its anything like the clarke i have its the spring in the nrv thats worn out, i just opend the valves and duffed a spring in that looked like it may have been simalar out of an assortment box, job done been fine ever since, quite a weack taperd compression sprhing it literaly just presents the disk that forms the seal to the port air pressure dose the sealing force
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
- Messages
- 4,098
- Location
- Crete, Greece
just to add, new press switch's are quite cheap off eBay......because of where I live and the heavy use of my compressors I keep both 1 way valves and switches in stock...and rightly or wrongly I always go up on amperage for the switch...the better/better switch is usually only a few squids more.....and another tip is to change the drain tap for a ball valve from a plumbing shop.....the originals often get full off rust n scale and never drain prop....oh, and if u go down the 1 way valve route, either to clean or replace, blow down the inlet pipe to the valve .....it's surprising how much crap get's up there.......
Frank
Frank
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
Whilst you're at it put a length of air hose from the drain hole to the ball valve, then you don't have get down on your hands & knees to drain the tank.
Would you be able to tell me the size and details of the fittings I need to order to do this you are right it is a long way down and awkward with not a lot of room I have been draining into a frying pan as that is all I can get under it, thanks Frank everyone else I have ordered the non return vale and many thanks for your help
