Alternatives to esab tig torch switchp

[Noods]

Hi I've an esab torch the same as this one..

While it works great, probably due to wrist breaks over the years ( racing bikes ) I really struggle to continuously keep the torch gas trigger pressed in while keeping the torch correctly angled for my weld run.. It soon becomes too painful and I have to stop.. I just wondered if there is another way of keeping the gas flow running without the need to keep holding it down.. Don't wish to go to a pedal setup if I can really help it..

Many thanks

NOODS

 

[eSCHEn]

Easy peasy noods

Switch to 4T mode on the TIG unit.

Edit: top left switch on my machine, currently it's in 2T mode (press and hold):

 

[Noods]

Easy peasy noods

Switch to 4T mode on the TIG unit.

Edit: top left switch on my machine, currently it's in 2T mode (press and hold):
View attachment 69694

Hi mTe..

All I have is this on my panel?

 

[eSCHEn]

Top right switch pal by looks of it but gimme two mins to check.

 

[eSCHEn]

Yep that's it.

2T mode (what you're using) is press to actuate and release to stop.
4T is press and release to actuate, the gas and power runs on its own, then press and release to stop.

I use 2T for tacking and 4T for runs.

 

[Noods]

IIRC

4T - press to slope up, release on most will jump up to full amperage, press again to start slope down, release causes it to cut off

(messy explanation)

Ahh thanks guys.. The instruction book is crap! ... Well done you two x

 

[AndersK]

Or make your own "pedal" with just a switch.
I pretty much find 4T useless unless running longer beads but thats me.

 

[Richard.]

I never use 4 stroke switching, as I always make a mess at the end of the run reaching for the button.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

I would be tempted to make a simple on/off pedal , like Richard says you always end up getting a wobble on at the end of the run when you go for the button again

 

[eSCHEn]

I think I might switch to 2T as I get awful wobbles as well on 4T for the same reason. I thought it was just me being crap and practice would help but if people with actual skill get it then I am doomed

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Buy a pedal eschen! The only people that say you don't need one are the ones that haven't used one

 

[AndersK]

That is so true. I was very reluctant to get one for very long since I found them difficult when not bench welding. When they can be used the're definately worth every penny.

I dont think you can use a pedal to control current on the Buddy. Looks like its only 2 pins, max 3 and I'm pretty sure that model isnt CAN controlled.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Even on/off on the pedal makes life a lot easier

 

[Richard.]

You don't need a pedal for DC welding.
No advantages. My pedal is only used on AC. Eschen has a DC ewm I'd say it's an expensive unnecessary thing for him. IMO

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Depends the thickness you are welding on dc , ive always used a pedal for everything

 

[eSCHEn]

When I bought this EWM it was running a pedal, I don't know what kind but it was VERY well made. Solid cast metal and looked like you could kick it from home to work and it'd be unperturbed, very like an industrial foot control. It was weird as hell to use and frankly I'm amazed I got a semi-decent bead down between that and the HF (also never used before). The seller was upgrading to AC so kept it.

I'm no welder but I've tried to do the most awkward and difficult things I could as I figure if I can get good at them then the 'normal' stuff is gravy. I've never felt that a pedal would be helpful (thank god, I'm poor!) until I did my first bit of stainless the other day.

The puddle on the 304L was very different to form compared to mild, took longer and then was very runny. I can see how a pedal would be great in that circumstance but I found that going like stink worked as well

For me a pedal is a luxury like Richard says. I think my skills are far behind needing one though, so I am quite content to blunder on with my fists of ham

That being said, if anyone wants to flog me a cheap pedal I'm all ears

 

[Richard.]

Depends on what you want the pedal for. For me the pedal is a variable current control to make adjustments with when dealing with aluminium and it's melting points, high conductivity. Ferritic metals don't have these charectoristics any where near to the same degree so a pre set current is suitable from start to finish. If you use the pedal to simply make the switch point in a more comfortable position then yes I see your point. No good for working away from the bench though which I quite often have to do.

 

[eSCHEn]

You've seen my 'setup' Richard - nowhere for a pedal even if I could have one!

That stainless was weird compared to the mild though. I do like a challenge and am itching to get back to finishing that off as soon as I'm feeling a bit better.

 

[Richard.]

When I bought this EWM it was running a pedal, I don't know what kind but it was VERY well made. Solid cast metal and looked like you could kick it from home to work and it'd be unperturbed, very like an industrial foot control. It was weird as hell to use and frankly I'm amazed I got a semi-decent bead down between that and the HF (also never used before). The seller was upgrading to AC so kept it.

I'm no welder but I've tried to do the most awkward and difficult things I could as I figure if I can get good at them then the 'normal' stuff is gravy. I've never felt that a pedal would be helpful (thank god, I'm poor!) until I did my first bit of stainless the other day.

The puddle on the 304L was very different to form compared to mild, took longer and then was very runny. I can see how a pedal would be great in that circumstance but I found that going like stink worked as well

For me a pedal is a luxury like Richard says. I think my skills are far behind needing one though, so I am quite content to blunder on with my fists of ham

That being said, if anyone wants to flog me a cheap pedal I'm all ears

Sorry mate but a foot pedal won't help with puddle control on SS. In fact one sneeze and a stamp could ruin everything. SS is different to mild but use pre set current and the switch. If it's flowing to quickly you've got it too hot. You don't need variation in current on ss.

 

[eSCHEn]

No sorry required mate. If it won't help then I feel even less bothered about being too poor to afford one