Aluminium ramps

[MG David]

I have been looking for a project idea that would enable me to try aluminium mig welding and I came across these ramps:

www.levo-artis.com/index.html

Has anyone used ramps like them or seen them close up?

From what I can see looking at stockholders websites 5 bar tread plate comes in either 3mm, 4.5mm or 6mm. I was wondering if anyone new which thickness they use?

You would need a rather large bending brake, 3M plus, to make their full size ones but I was wondering about making an extension for my conventional ramps as they are too steep to get modern cars onto. The bottom of the bumper catches before the tyre reaches the ramp.

 

[Country Joe]

I can't get the link to work!
Is it just me?

 

[MG David]

I have now fixed it, sorry Joe.

 

[Country Joe]

Yeah, working now!
They look pretty handy - there's never enough room under a car!
I wouldn't have thought they use 6mm, as it's really heavy.
I'd want them to be really strong though - I knew someone who got squelched under a car!

 

[Hitch]

I would have thought it was 4.5mm, with those folds and some stiffners on the underside it will be strong.

 

[Cappy]

I saw something very similar to those ramps which I rather fancied



Seen on here

http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/

They also show extensions to assist with vehicles with the low ground clearance.

 

[classic2cv]

I saw something very similar to those ramps which I rather fancied

View attachment 844

Seen on here

http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/

They also show extensions to assist with vehicles with the low ground clearance.

has anyone made some of these ramps

if so do they have any photos of the build ?

 

[cobminor]

I see no welding at all on the Aluminium ramp system.

 

[cobminor]

The clamping on of supports on the steel restoration ramps is a bit iffy.

 

[marknotgeorge]

Funnily enough, I was vaguely thinking about those Restoration ramps over the weekend. Even looked into aquiring some image measuring software so I could measure them from the pictures. I agree the clamping mechanism does look dodgy. I'd be tempted to use axle stands.

Anyone any good at estimating measurements and steel sizes?

 

[Wozzaaah]

MnG, I've got two trolley jacks of different sizes but both use the same size wheels, 75mm dia for the fixed ones and 50mm for the castors. Comparing the wheel size to the angle, I'm guessing it's 50x50x5 angle for the main frame and probably 25x25x5 for the treads. The main ramp section (before the front rectangular part) is 2450mm long x 430mm wide. The detachable front rectangular section is approx 1200mm long and the height when level is approx 700mm.
Hope this helps.
Woz

 

[Shug]

By the look of this one, I reckon this chap doesnae trust the stands that come with it on his pride and joy!

 

[panrixx]

Here are a couple of pics that may give you a few more ideas

Personally I feel safer putting myself under something a bit more substantial, so I bought a scissor lift (at a discount) as in the last photo.

More money but what cost do you put on your life

 

[classic2cv]

Here are a couple of pics that may give you a few more ideas

Personally I feel safer putting myself under something a bit more substantial, so I bought a scissor lift (at a discount) as in the last photo.

More money but what cost do you put on your life

I like that scissor lift thingy

just the job for sorting my little 2cv's

maybe, I’ll get one of those for xmas, i'll start writing now

<scribbles note in big crayon> (dear Santa mum says that if I’m a good boy................)

 

[cobminor]

OK, the support angles, or cross pieces are doing no more than a normal set of ramps so they could be a similar size, They are 16" long so a bit more for extra width.probably 4mm x 25mm. Most of the main frame looks like 6mmx50x50 angle to me. The lengths are available from the website. You could go to a car showroom and measure a set, they are popular round here.

 

[MrFluffy]

Have to be the one to say this, but isnt this one of those times that a used bradbury 2/4 post off ebay would work out cheaper than the materials and time to make your own? Dont they usually finish somewhere round 250-300 quid for a 2 post?

I just wish I had the celing height in the garage to have one, at the moment, it'd crush the car on the roof trusses, so Im stuck with digging a pit

 

[timinder]

I've thought about the ebay option, but unless you have your own large trailer, you have to factor in the cost of transporting the stuff to wherever you need it. I haven't looked into it that seriously, as I never seem to have the £2-300 spare to get the lift in the first place!

 

[marknotgeorge]

Thanks Woz! I'll have a fiddle with SolidWorks when I have the time...

 

[Wozzaaah]

Have to be the one to say this, but isnt this one of those times that a used bradbury 2/4 post off ebay would work out cheaper than the materials and time to make your own? Dont they usually finish somewhere round 250-300 quid for a 2 post?

I just wish I had the celing height in the garage to have one, at the moment, it'd crush the car on the roof trusses, so Im stuck with digging a pit

You've said it yourself Mr F, ceiling height is the limiting factor for most of us. I expect the majority of used ones are 3 phase as well. Also, once a 2 poster is in that's it, you lose space and have to work around it. At least with those ramps you can dismantle them and store them easier and possibly rent them out to people as well

MnG, let us know how you get on with solidworks, I still haven't had a proper go with it yet, I have a very limited attention span, if it looks difficult, it is difficult so I give up .

 

[marknotgeorge]

Well, I've got a design for the horizontal part of the ramp. The only problems I had were:

• To make a welded design, you basically draw a stick version (called a 'sketch') and turn the lines on the sketch into structural members. There's profiles of most sizes of tube, angles, I-sections, etc, but no sheet steel. For the end plate, I had to create a separate part and insert it into the main design.
• I'm a bit worried about the joints at the bottom. The angles for the top rails sit on top of the end frames ok, but I haven't yet worked out how to overlap the bottom members over the end frames.

I'll post some pictures when I get the chance.