Arc Welding fun but not as easy as it looks... help

[BBD]

Hi.

Metal arrived today and so did parweld XTi 160.

Had a few goes, using 2013 2.5 electrode on 3 mm plate. Did those 2 awful beads at 60 amps. Previous attempts were at 70 and 80 amps.

I suspect I'm rotating my hand rather than moving it so my electrode gets steeper.


I only been doing this an hour at most...

A lag was harder to remove than in videos I've watched.

 

[shenion]

Does look like you are lowing your hand so the angle gets less (oblong ripples instead of circular.) Do some practice runs moving your hand without and arc to give you the feel of how it will move.

May bit a bit too much gap (spatter). Try lightly dragging the rod. It will help on smaller rods.

Edit: the smoother the weld, the easier the slag comes off.

 

[God mode restorations]

hi...
arc welding is very gun critical....just try and keep a steady hand and angle as you drag and try and and keep the rod close to the puddle but not in it.....

 

[BrokenBiker]

turn the amps up. try and keep the rod angle consistent and move slowly enough to let the puddle swell to the same width as the rod

 

[norlander]

looks as though the arc is getting too long as you burn the rod maybe.Listening to the sound can help and also how much flare there is from the arc.There should be a nice steady crackle as the rod is fed in as you travel along the joint.
But for now just do as you are doing and do runs on plate-concentrate on the arc and feeding the rod in as you travel-dont worry too much about where you are going-you can sort that out when you have got laying decent beads down-you'll get there.

 

[BBD]

First time I tried, I cut rod in half. Didn't like that found my gloves got in the way, full length seemed okay.

Love the auto dimming helmet. Think it maybe a little dark so will adjust that.

really need to do some practice runs to stop me rotating hands. I'm holding with right hand and steadying it with left.

I'll also up amps, can see puddle to start but as I go along it seemed to get thinner, so I stopped but then it looked like I was about to blow through, but that maybe because I've made the rod more upright as I've moved along.

Will try again tomorrow.

 

[BrokenBiker]

at anything up to 120 amps I use shade 10, over 120 I use shade 11. gives me a nice clear view of the puddle, easy to determine where the parent metal is and where the puddle ends etc

 

[J.B. Welding]

""
"I'll also up amps, can see puddle to start but as I go along it seemed to get thinner, so I stopped but then it looked like I was about to blow through, but that maybe because I've made the rod more upright as I've moved along."

I'de say the ideal travel speed is somewhere between the two, just on the edge of blowing through is the sweet spot for a strong weld, and seeing a copy of the top of the weld mirrored on the underside of the plate lets you know your there. Dry runs with the welder off will help your rod control and angle issues, and lots of practice. Don't be afraid to burn through a few times when your practicing on scrap, getting used to when it occurs is all part of learning to arc weld. Best of luck!

 

[Bill Edwards]

Right now you shouldn't worry about the amps, speed, the direction you are travelling in or blowing holes. Focus on keeping the rod moving at a steady speed, while maintaining the same angle and distance from the work piece. Once you've got that sorted you've done the most important bit and altering things such as power, speed etc can then be done.

 

[Paul G]

I honestly don't know how people think they can learn to weld on a forum.

You get a "turn the amps up", followed by a "don't worry about the amps", followed by "turn the amps down".

I'm the turn it down btw.
That metal is getting way too hot by the end of the weld, although the "arc getting longer" my be valid.

Paul G

 

[J.B. Welding]

I honestly don't know how people think they can learn to weld on a forum.

You get a "turn the amps up", followed by a "don't worry about the amps", followed by "turn the amps down".

I'm the turn it down btw.
That metal is getting way too hot by the end of the weld, although the "arc getting longer" my be valid.

Paul G

I recon most people can get some nice looking runs after a couple of hours tuition. Teaching/trying to help through a forum is a lot harder as you can't hear what the welding sounds like or see the students welding technique. However-whatever encouragement it takes to keep people trying (a few hopefully helpful tips from us) and practicing till they get it right must be all good eh? The above runs are great for a first hours try, after a few more days and welding up a cattle grid or two i'm sure you may be allowed to pass as a diy welder..

 

[norlander]

I honestly don't know how people think they can learn to weld on a forum.
Paul G

Well in a way its a tough call, what is best is to point the learner in the direction of videos of technique so they can at least see and hear a run being put down.
Trying to explain a practical skill in words is not a good idea. An example used when training army instructors is to get one of them in front of the class and explain how to tie a tie (as in collar n tie). After 30 seconds or so of struggling he is given an actual tie to demonstrate with, then, the class are all given ties so he can now talk them through it in stages.

But as JB says, encouragement does not go amiss and sometimes somebody has a useful tip having seen the early efforts.

So- we all seem to have forgotten one of the best bits of this forum:

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/learning-arc.htm

 

[BBD]

100 amps I had to move too quick.
Tried at 90 amps. Still going quick but manageable.

Couple of questions.

What is causing the holes on top of the weld?

How is it best to stop bead. I watched videos saying go back over weld but it just flattens it out every time.

latest pics.

 

[BBD]

Think I had a bit of a breakthrough.

Notice I say think. Would like some feedback.

Arc I think was too long..

I think the bead may now be too high?

 

[zzr1200]

I honestly don't know how people think they can learn to weld on a forum.

You get a "turn the amps up", followed by a "don't worry about the amps", followed by "turn the amps down".

I'm the turn it down btw.
That metal is getting way too hot by the end of the weld, although the "arc getting longer" my be valid.

Paul G

General rule of thumb is 40 amps per 1 mm diameter of arc rod ie:

2.4mm rod up to 100 amp.

3.2mm rod up to 140 amp.

4.0mm rod up to 180 amp

Arc length shouldn't be longer than the diameter of the rod, better to have a shorter arc length, the longer the arc the higher the weld pool temperature, and less shielding gas coverage, shorter the arc lower weld pool temperature denser arc shield, all to do with the electrons travelling across the arc length ......simples....well it was in welding theory at college...

Hence if the weld pool appears to be to hot/wide or your burning through shorten the arc, don't lengthen it.

 

[zzr1200]

Think I had a bit of a breakthrough.

Notice I say think. Would like some feedback.

Arc I think was too long..

I think the bead may now be too high?
View attachment 44652

Try travelling a bit faster, its all down to the welding parameters, type of rod, amperage, travel speed, weld position, thickness/type of material being welded, one welder's setting won't suit every welder...

Practice, practice, practice and more practice.....

 

[BBD]

Those beads are on 3mm plate. When I go to 100 amps I pretty much keep blowing through. I tried on 5mm plate and 100 amps seemed pretty good. Not sure I got good penetration as the back was only slightly marked where as the runs on 3mm I get a nice mark on the back.

The slag is now easily coming off, quite often dropping off after I tap it once.

could do with going in a straighter line...

also I have problems at end of bead, always looks flat like above pic.

Thing I want to work on though is not blowing a hole when bead ends on an edge.

Going to try joining some pieces tomorrow..

I would say that if I had a lesson then the couple of hours I spent making mistakes (long arc) would have taken 10 mins.. but hey..

 

[zzr1200]

Those beads are on 3mm plate. When I go to 100 amps I pretty much keep blowing through. I tried on 5mm plate and 100 amps seemed pretty good. Not sure I got good penetration as the back was only slightly marked where as the runs on 3mm I get a nice mark on the back.

As the material get thicker you up the rod size and amperage

The slag is now easily coming off, quite often dropping off after I tap it once.

The closer you getting to a "Peeler" the better the weld conditions/settings underneath the slag...

could do with going in a straighter line...

A straight weld on a piece of flat plate is hard, a joint (butt, fillet or lap) gives you an edge to follow.

also I have problems at end of bead, always looks flat like above pic.

We were taught to shorten the arc almost to the point of extinguishing the arc, then break the arc over the weld/slag you've just layed, you can then see the liquid metal solidifying (the bright white spot) under the slag, just before it disappears you re-establish an arc just to fill the crater at the end of the weld.... sounds simple....practice practice practice...

Thing I want to work on though is not blowing a hole when bead ends on an edge.

Shorten arc, Practice...Practice ....Practice

Going to try joining some pieces tomorrow..

Those beads are on 3mm plate. When I go to 100 amps I pretty much keep blowing through. I tried on 5mm plate and 100 amps seemed pretty good. Not sure I got good penetration as the back was only slightly marked where as the runs on 3mm I get a nice mark on the back.

As the material get thicker you up the rod size and amperage

The slag is now easily coming off, quite often dropping off after I tap it once.

The closer you getting to a "Peeler" the better the weld conditions/settings underneath the slag...

could do with going in a straighter line...

A straight weld on a piece of flat plate is hard, a joint (butt, fillet or lap) gives you an edge to follow.

also I have problems at end of bead, always looks flat like above pic.

We were taught to shorten the arc almost to the point of extinguishing the arc, then break the arc over the weld/slag you've just layed, you can then see the liquid metal solidifying (the bright white spot) under the slag, just before it disappears you re-establish an arc just to fill the crater at the end of the weld.... sounds simple....practice practice practice...

Thing I want to work on though is not blowing a hole when bead ends on an edge.

Move forward and Practice.....

I would say that if I had a lesson then the couple of hours I spent making mistakes (long arc) would have taken 10 mins.. but hey..

Practice....Practice....Practice...

hth