Auto darkening head sheilds?

[spaf4]

Hi, I've never used a Auto Darkening head screen and would like some views on them.

My concern is the size of the viewing window. I'm used to the regular full size, and from memory when I tried one with a smaller window I seem to remember not being too keen on it. To my mind the full sized ones give you more of a view of what your welding without having to adjust your head position as often as you might when using a smaller viewing window. This, I've found, is helpful when welding in tight positions, or when welding while lying on you back.

Your thoughts would be appreciated before I splash out the cash. This is one screen I have in mind as I now have to wear glasses under my present head shield.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-DARK...A%2BFICS%2BUFI&otn=21&pmod=170874842816&ps=54

 

[zzr1200]

I would never go back to a fixed shade mask, the viewing area can be smaller on an auto darkening mask. if your worried, phone Steve (Weldequip) and find out which masks he sells can be fitted with a cheater lens.

 

[arthur]

Guess it depends on money! I have a speedglass 9100 XX cost a bomb but I love it and the last one I had lasted for years. It has side view windows for a full view and a VERY large screen.. It's a little funny at very low amps on Tig with fluorescent lighting but I rarely use 10amps and lower so no prob.

 

[chevy2]

Last time i used a regular welding helmet must be 20 years ago,

Wouldn't go back to one of those,
Buy a decent one and you should get years of use from it,
Fit the cheater lens and you wont be constantly putting your specs on and off for welding.

Had an esab eyetech for years which i now use for mig and plasma and recently bought a Miller Elite for tig which has a bigger viewing area, both good quality masks.

 

[spaf4]

Thanks for the replies fellas. "Speedglass 9100 XX"!!!! Holy mother of god. If only.

I'll give Steve at Weldequip a call on Monday. Got my Parweld from him the other day. Ordered it 10:00 Wednesday morning, received it 13:00 Thursday. Now that's what I call a great service.

 

[Bauxite]

I don't get why most people like Auto darkening shields. I hate them mainly because you get flashes all the time using them. The reaction time for darkening is never fast enough for obvious reasons. The size of viewing window isn't a problem IMO.

 

[arthur]

Tbh I do also like a standard glass, smooth on the eyes...

And yeah told you the 9100XX ain't cheap!

 

[aametalmaster]

I don't get why most people like Auto darkening shields. I hate them mainly because you get flashes all the time using them. The reaction time for darkening is never fast enough for obvious reasons.

Which helmet are you using? I have a Miller and never have seen a flash because of the reaction time. Now there was a time 10 years ago when i tried 6 of them (name brand not Miller) at my local welding store and i could see white light on each of them but i hope things got better over the years...Bob

 

[arthur]

I think the argument is no amount of electronics will ever be quicker than light? Also is it still the case that some places in the US don't use them for that reason?

 

[pedrobedro]

If the screen is close to your eyes the viewing area is no problem. I thought I would never bother with an auto mask till I got a free one with a welder then I had to get a replacement after it started acting up as it had spoiled me forever. No more flipping up and nodding down between tacks and finding you are miles from where you intended to be. Never had a flash with something in front of my eyes, even plain glass stops enough UV to prevent the burning.

 

[chunkolini]

I work as a sculptor and just spent a fortune buying myself an Optrel 680, lush but pricy.
I run sculpture making courses and have bought three of these for my customers, well I bought one tested it and bought two more. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160779121770?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 twenty five quid and hell they are now £22!! ha!
They work fine, you can adjust the darkness and sensitivity. Great for the price.
Looked at the one linked to, wouldn't bother with that. The 'magnifier' is probably irrelevant.
I also need specs for close up work. Wondered about lenses in the welding bucket but realise I also need tohem to see what I have just done when I take the helmet off. Inclined to carry on wearing specs.
I'd never reccomend welding without an auto mask, ok they make life easier but aint that evolution.

 

[spaf4]

I can see how the auto models would be great for bench work, and constant tacking, but laid on your side under a piece of farm machinery trying to look up where head movement is restricted, the smaller window could limit your view.

All that said, though, for £22 for the auto off ebay, I'm going to be ordering one. Can always carry a regular one with me in case it's needed for awkward positions while on site.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[weldequip]

See the internal picture of the LCD cartridge? There's no standards marked on it, should look something like this...

There should also be relevant standards stamped on the inside of the helmet shell. No markings, no compliance - they have to be independently tested. The only reference I can see to any kind of standards "conformity" is the CE mark on a sticker, and it's dead easy to make & print stickers from a computer!
I could be wrong, but I wouldn't put too much faith in my eye protection for 22 quid with no concrete signs of standards compliance/assurances.

 

[arthur]

Too right, people say about the price of my 9100 but I wonder how much you would give to get your sight back! Mines worth every penny to me! Take weldequips advice and buy a good one, you won't be much of a welder in X years time if you can't see naff all!

 

[spaf4]

you won't be much of a welder in X years time if you can't see naff all!

I wasn't much of a welder X number of years ago when I could see.

Actually, I was as good as anyone, and better than most But the saying "once you have it, you never lose it" is a lie, as I've found out recently whilst practicing my return to the ranks of the great unwashed.

 

[Tigman]

I use Optrel , never had a minutes trouble with them !

 

[rodisi]

spaf4, I hope I'm not hijacking your thread
but I have a few questions on the auto-darkening helmets, which hopefully may help in your selection.
In my practicing, I seem to miss the spot 3 out of 4 times. I'm sure it's because I can't see properly and hence the questions. The helmet was given to me so I have no idea how old it is or how it works. It is a Javac Power-weld S81

1) the front of the glass appears dirty. Is there a way of cleaning it?
2) there's a Sensitivity switch Low/High setting. I take it High means less light will trigger it?
3) the Delay Time switch has short and long. I take it that's the interval between sensing the change in light and going dark?
4) On the outside it has a knob with numbers 8 to 10. Any ideas what that is for?
5) while researching about helmets, I read something about batteries. Is that on all auto-darkening helmets?
6) are any bits on these helmets replaceable?

 

[shenion]

1 -yes, I use window cleaner. There is a plastic outside cover that needs to be replaced over time.

2 - yes

3 - the delay is time going from dark back to light.

4 - That is the shade setting, usually 10-13 though

5 - most have batteries

6 - inside and outside plastic covers. High end ones you can get most anything.

 

[rich r]

1) the front of the glass appears dirty. Is there a way of cleaning it?
> Same way as you'd clean a fixed shade helmet. If it's too bad, just replace the glass.
2) there's a Sensitivity switch Low/High setting. I take it High means less light will trigger it?
> Correct. Generally, look at your workpiece, turn up the control until it goes dark, then back if off a little, so it doesn't take much extra light to trigger.
3) the Delay Time switch has short and long. I take it that's the interval between sensing the change in light and going dark?
> Opposite - it's the time delay before going light. Gives the weld pool time to cool before the filter goes light. It's not as bright as an arc, but it can still be very bright. Set it at what's comfortable for your type of welding.
4) On the outside it has a knob with numbers 8 to 10. Any ideas what that is for?
> Shade setting. ie how dark it goes. For MMA or TIG it generally wants to be 10 or 11, for MIG where the arc is teeny-tiny in comparison, around 9 is about right.
5) while researching about helmets, I read something about batteries. Is that on all auto-darkening helmets?
> No. Some are powered entirely by batteries. Some use a solar panel (welding makes a lot of UV) to charge a rechargeable battery.
6) are any bits on these helmets replaceable?
> Usually the outer glass, inner glass, head bands and so on.

 

[chevy2]

spaf4, I hope I'm not hijacking your thread
but I have a few questions on the auto-darkening helmets, which hopefully may help in your selection.
In my practicing, I seem to miss the spot 3 out of 4 times. I'm sure it's because I can't see properly and hence the questions. The helmet was given to me so I have no idea how old it is or how it works. It is a Javac Power-weld S81

1) the front of the glass appears dirty. Is there a way of cleaning it?
2) there's a Sensitivity switch Low/High setting. I take it High means less light will trigger it?
3) the Delay Time switch has short and long. I take it that's the interval between sensing the change in light and going dark?
4) On the outside it has a knob with numbers 8 to 10. Any ideas what that is for?
5) while researching about helmets, I read something about batteries. Is that on all auto-darkening helmets?
6) are any bits on these helmets replaceable?

The inner and outer screens are replaceable,
High/low sensitivity, high will make the shading cut in if for example you look at the sun or bright lights,
Short mask delay time for low amp and high for thicker welding to allow time for the weldpool to cool and darken so its easier on the eyes,
The with numbers 8-10 is how dark the mask goes when welding, higher number is darker,
Some masks require batteries while others have solar cells.