Band saw or table saw?

[dobbslc]

I'm looking at buying a cheapish saw for cutting solid oak flooring and 40mm thick oak worktops plus other stuff my wife hasn't found for me to do yet!
I have no idea what would be the best tool for the job! What would be more versatile?
It's mostly going to be straight cuts and angles so some kind of guide will be needed.
Can anyone recommend something suitable?
Thanks.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I'm looking at buying a cheapish saw for cutting solid oak flooring and 40mm thick oak worktops plus other stuff my wife hasn't found for me to do yet!
I have no idea what would be the best tool for the job! What would be more versatile?
It's mostly going to be straight cuts and angles so some kind of guide will be needed.
Can anyone recommend something suitable?
Thanks.

Tracksaw mate

May have to do two passes on oak worktops mind.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

https://www.its.co.uk/pd/SP6000J1KIT3-Plunge-Cut-Saw-Ultimate-Package-_MAKSP6000J1KIT3.htm
2 rails. Joining bars. Clamps and a box.

 

[dobbslc]

I've got a track saw but think it'll be a lot of messing around setting it up for every cut on flooring.

 

[RonA]

Forget the bandsaw, unless they’re huge industrial types the blade will wander
RonA

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I've got a track saw but think it'll be a lot of messing around setting it up for every cut on flooring.

How so.
Crosscut on a mitre saw or make a jig for the ts on the bench
Rip cut with a tracksaw

Two pencil marks and lay it down.

Jigsaw for curves

I certainly couldn't be Messing about with bandsaws and tablesaws for flooring


Get a decent blade in your ts

For narrow rips. Snap another board onto the piece and away you go

 

[julianf]

Table saw is not that much use for cross cutting long boards.

Radial arm saw is much easier.

But, either way, for worktops, just use a hand held circular saw to cut a little proud, and then a router along a guide to clean the cut and make it dimensionally perfect.


For boards a simple chop saw (mitre saw) would do.

I don't think a bandsaw or a table saw will make your life easy if you're trying to cross cut long stuff. Indeed I have a decent table saw and would not use it for that job. And I sold my bandaw as I just didn't use it enough to justify the space.

 

[gaz1]

table saw you can still cross cut just a little slower

bandsaw really only comes into its own for diagonal cuts like on rackers

 

[gaz1]

table saws come into there own if you use jigs

 

[Screwdriver]

I've got a track saw but think it'll be a lot of messing around setting it up for every cut on flooring.

Sounds like you're expecting it to be too easy. Next best thing up from a track saw is a (very) large cnc router.

Maybe what you really need is a better track saw?? I have a horizontal and vertical bandsaw, jigsaw, table saw and a variety of circular saws and a router - I would still go for a track saw if I needed to do what I think you're doing. Maybe I could just about squeeze a radial arm saw onto the list but even that wouldn't open up any novel opportunities for wood bothering.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Sounds like you're expecting it to be too easy. Next best thing up from a track saw is a (very) large cnc router.

Maybe what you really need is a better track saw?? I have a horizontal and vertical bandsaw, jigsaw, table saw and a variety of circular saws and a router - I would still go for a track saw if I needed to do what I think you're doing. Maybe I could just about squeeze a radial arm saw onto the list but even that wouldn't open up any novel opportunities for wood bothering.

One of those tools I don't know how I got by without

Replaces a tablesaw on my van too unless I've got a lot of repeat work

 

[Screwdriver]

One of those tools I don't know how I got by without

Replaces a tablesaw on my van too unless I've got a lot of repeat work

The only other thing I can think of is this:

From here: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/the-eagle-has-landed.83277/

But even that was a bit of a nightmare. Nice if you had a lot of full sheets of ply to cut. Not nice enough to keep on hand and a devil of a thing to keep setting up.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

The only other thing I can think of is this:

From here: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/the-eagle-has-landed.83277/

But even that was a bit of a nightmare. Nice if you had a lot of full sheets of ply to cut. Not nice enough to keep on hand and a devil of a thing to keep setting up.

Remember that post.

Be a bit of a fad for a couple of boards mind.

One day il get around to making some parallel fences to fit on my tracks for repeat work.

I've made up jigs for eg ripping 30mm strips by fixing the tracks to an offcut in the past but only because I did t have the ts with me

 

[Screwdriver]

I think if I had a decent spare wall somewhere, I'd make up a similar thing from a spare sheet of 24mm marine ply or OSB and have a permanent XY guide rail I could clip a circular saw onto.

It works really well when vertical and the only down side is the sheer size of the thing and having to move it or set it up for a single job.

 

[Agroshield]

I've made up jigs for eg ripping 30mm strips...

If you can cope with the possible tearout, have a quick look on YT for Strawbyte Workshop. He has a little 3d-printed gadget with an upstand the kerf of the blade so the piece you want does not need to be under the track.

His one goes under the track. After seeing it, I drew up one to be made from Corian, to go on top of the track. I also use my track with a grinder and with that the blade cannot go too close to the splinter strip or it melts it.

 

[Ashley Burton]

The only other thing I can think of is this:

From here: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/the-eagle-has-landed.83277/

But even that was a bit of a nightmare. Nice if you had a lot of full sheets of ply to cut. Not nice enough to keep on hand and a devil of a thing to keep setting up.

Screw that!

Give me a track saw any day

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

If you can cope with the possible tearout, have a quick look on YT for Strawbyte Workshop. He has a little 3d-printed gadget with an upstand the kerf of the blade so the piece you want does not need to be under the track.

His one goes under the track. After seeing it, I drew up one to be made from Corian, to go on top of the track. I also use my track with a grinder and with that the blade cannot go too close to the splinter strip or it melts it.

If I'm working in reverse I just add the kerf thickness onto my marks.

Will have a look now

Have a track base for my router here
Edit.
Yeah they don't look user friendly.

Easier to add the kerf onto the marks.

 

[Screwdriver]

Screw that!

Give me a track saw any day

I gave it away...