bench light

[T0rnado69]

well i thought it was time to have a bench light, to help see when welding and fabricating.

i remember getting a desk light as one of the many things from my late fathers stuff,
didn't use it as i have a few ikea 12v lights.

so i dug it out.
i did buy a BC to GU10 adaptor and 50w halagon bulb for it.


i did have it mounted to a piece of wood to make it easy to clamp down.

.
so decided to try something that will allow it to stand up without having to clamp it.

bit of an off cut from my dolly frame i have as i found it too wide.


not so easy to mount the light, due to the base.



so i decided to cap the end that was open, and add a tube into the box to allow the light to mount.




bit of a clean up of the welds and remove the old paint.



drilled the holes and mounted the light.




so now i need to fill it with something to make it heavy.

dry sand i guess would be best ?.
concrete would start it off rusting, lead would be a nightmare trying to pour that amount.

 

[eSCHEn]

Roofing slates. Easy to acquire and shape and you can pack them in. Used them before and they are quite dense.

 

[T0rnado69]

cant use anything like that as ive capped the end of the box already.
can only add stuff via a hole.

 

[tflnemesis]

Lead shot? Old Lead fishing weights springs to mind...

 

[Robotstar5]

Fluid Lead? - link

 

[CornishPete]

how big is the hole? I guess something liquid that sets would be your best bet. I cant see rusting from inside being anything to be too concerned about as it would take such a long time. Reinforced concrete lintels last a long time and they're a bit similar, steel and concrete I mean. Maybe plaster or drywall adhesive as it sets solid even if its really wet and runny. Would pour through a small hole where concrete wouldn't and not leave voids?

 

[T0rnado69]

Lead shot? Old Lead fishing weights springs to mind...

cheers thats an idea.

Fluid Lead? - link

another good idea cheers.

how big is the hole? I guess something liquid that sets would be your best bet. I cant see rusting from inside being anything to be too concerned about as it would take such a long time. Reinforced concrete lintels last a long time and they're a bit similar, steel and concrete I mean. Maybe plaster or drywall adhesive as it sets solid even if its really wet and runny. Would pour through a small hole where concrete wouldn't and not leave voids?

i haven't cut the hole yet, was hoping to hide it under the plastic bit of the light that screws to the box section.

but if that isn't big enough then i guess it will have to be on show, and make something like a sump plug type access.

there is many liquids that would work, but i need something that is heavy enough to counter the weight of the light to stop it falling over.

the box weighs just over 1.3kg.

 

[graffian]

I used to have an anglepoise light on a an old hospital drip stand.
The local hospital were always throwing them away, angleporpoises and drip stands.

 

[T0rnado69]

thats a good idea graffian, but i just don't have the room for a drip stand

 

[rory1]

Could you not put a couple of good magnets on the bottom of it?

 

[T0rnado69]

Could you not put a couple of good magnets on the bottom of it?

another good idea. now if only i had a metal topped bench lol
guess it would work on a piece of plate for now..
as im still searching the bay for some thick plate..

 

[RichardM]

Weight - melt some old lead pipe and pour it through the hole my preference as it's cheap

Alternatively look up lead shot for scuba diving.

 

[T0rnado69]

Weight - melt some old lead pipe and pour it through the hole my preference as it's cheap

that would work, i guess i could pour water into it till its full to see how much fluid i would need.
then melt enough lead to pour in it.
i could pre heat the box section in oven to stop the lead going hard as soon as it touches the cold box section.

then melt the lead using the propane torch.

 

[Kent]

you can buy a product called heavy sand. Benchrest shooters use it to fill their back bag under the butt of the rifle. Search it online (postage will be the big part)

 

[Shox Dr]

Even if you fill that with the heavest material known to man it will still tip up. Unless used almost upright, as soon as the top heavy light is moved futher from the base it will tip

Either a g clamp or you need to extend the base.


Or just drill some holes where you might need it

 

[Screwdriver]

Weight alone isn't going to do it. You're going to need spreaders. Fit a couple of extending arms to the base which can be rotated to find a clear space or weld it to that large sheet it's on. Realistically, having an anglepoise on a gravity base is never going to work unless the base is huge, every time you move it, it's going to tip....

 

[Shox Dr]

Original anglepose lamps had counter weights to prevent tipping. Later versions only had a heavy base, so only stood if the lamp was not moved to far from the COG. Hence why most only come with a clamp base.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@T0rnado69 : What's the diameter of the spigot at the base? I have one of those ^^ clamp bases you could have if you want - but you might want to finish your project, now that you've started

EDIT: This is it, the hole for the spigot is 13mm

 

[T0rnado69]

well i think the best way would be to fill it with something heavy. then connect it to a thick steel plate. like screwdriver suggest, just like that vice you have on a steel plate steve..

i guess that would work...
though strong magnetics would work but not until i have a steel work top.... im still searching for..


SBF, i don't want it clamped to the bench. want to be able to move it about.

 

[123hotchef]

I use old truck brake discs ad bases for mine