Best way to REstart a 7018

[Sarto]

Hi to all.
As per title, what is, in your opinion, the best way to REstart a 7018? And why?

So far I have read:
1 - peck brutally, until it start
2 - with pliers, break the cone of slag that remain after extinguishing the arc and expose the metal
3 - with rough sand paper, eliminate the cone of slag that remain after extinguishing the arc
4 - as above, using a rough file
5 - not found yet

I usually follow the (3). With the file I feel I would be at risk of eye injury ...
And you?

Danke.
SARTo

 

[TechnicAl]

Its always been a problem which is why they are usually "tipped" when made......they are "dipped" in a graphite compound

Lincoln used to make a product called HYROD 7028 which would restart quite easily. We supplied a number of fabricators for tacking before SAW or FCW.

The thicker the coating the better

 

[DecK]

I just give them a few light tips with the side of the chipping hammer. Seems easier than tipping them off of something as I always end up with too much flux falling off. Don't keep much sandpaper around and I can never find a file even though I know I have about a dozen of them somewhere.

 

[wheresmejumper]

Just pinch the end off with your gloved thumb and fore finger.for the 10% of the time it won't budge,touch the rod to the workpiece where you intend to strike,and twist the rod to free it,arcing up at the same time.it does not work with crocodile type holders

 

[Shox Dr]

Pigs to restart.
My lad (App Plater) was told to take another one out the packet

 

[premmington]

Hi-lo's (7018) rods not easy to restart...

Peck like a woodpecker or take another one out of the box!

All of the other options from above posts mean burnt gloves or breaking away too much flux for a good weld.


Tacking with 7018's is no joke!

Tacking with 2.5mm 6013 rods then burning it all in with 3.2mm 7018 rods is a better plan by far.

 

[lionleg]

Throw it away and use a new one. Certainly not worth getting sandpaper or filing it !

 

[HughF]

Tack with 6010/11 then go over the top with the 7018...

 

[BrokenBiker]

Flick the rod when you are finished welding? Does that work for 7018?

 

[PTvor]

Stick the part used rods in a clean tin and have a filing session with a rough file to get rid of the slag plugging the end. Depends how tight you are, how many rods are left in the packet and how long the stubs are. Of course, if you are not paying for the rods, throw the part used rod away and use a new one.

Tapping or scraping on concrete tends to flake off the flux and leaves bare wire so you get a rough start.

 

[Sarto]

For tacks, usually I use 6013.
But if my beads are 3 cm long, I cannot trow away the stub.
I'm pretty tight, money speaking (off topic, where in your country live the tightest people?).

So I'll continue with the filing (or sandpaper) sessions.
Thanks to all.

SARTo

 

[TechnicAl]

I'm pretty tight, money speaking (off topic, where in your country live the tightest people?).



SARTo

Dont start

 

[daleyd]

Dont start

Ooh - raw nerve there!!

 

[super noob]

At the end of the run I give it a real hard flick to stop the rod, throws the slag off somewhere into the distance.....then just before I reuse I tap it on the ground...thats ground NOT EARTH!

Starts instantly then, hot start at +50% helps too

 

[Bill Edwards]

I jab them hard until they run...
Most of the time the flux is fine, sometimes a big lump drops off and then it's time to just chuck the rod away. Though sometimes when it's a long piece I long arc it on an unimportant earthed part, but it's probably not worth it.

 

[Sarto]

What is the long arc for?

 

[PTvor]

.
I'm pretty tight, money speaking (off topic, where in your country live the tightest people?).

Cardiganshire. A Cardy can buy from a Scotsman and sell to a Jew and still make a profit. But I knew people with relatives from there and they said they weren't exactly mean but knew what they were giving you.

Generally, the areas with that reputation in a country have fairly poor, hard farmland and the local economy doesn't have many well paid jobs, low house prices and are hard to get to from the rest of the country.

 

[PTvor]

What is the long arc for?

To burn back the rod so that the unfluxed/badly fluxed bit is burned away on something unimportant, then when you are on a properly fluxed bit, you transfer the arc to the work.

 

[davidjohnperry]

7018 rods are a night mare I usally either file the edge off or brake it by pinching the end also helps to have arc force turned up a bit

 

[F.J.]

I use a chisel as a Chipping hammer so if im doing multiple small passes i leave my lid down and just tap the end of the rod with the chisel gently. Breaks just enough off to get a good restart