- Thread starter astro_al
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chunkolini
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Have a look at whats available commercially.
I use a BOB trailer and have domne so for donkeys years, very versatile and simple to copy I mean take inspiration from. Probably the best design out there.
I bought this before I learned to weld, a simple device, vertical pivot in front of platform, horizontal pivots around little sticky out bits on the rear quick release.
Has carried fairly serious loads. Dont reccomend cookers though.
mind you 60kg is a lot of weight, maybe a twin wheel design might be better, or a dedicated haulage bike, eg long wheel base and twin rear wheels, or maybe a sidecar style set up.
Chunko'.
I use a BOB trailer and have domne so for donkeys years, very versatile and simple to copy I mean take inspiration from. Probably the best design out there.
I bought this before I learned to weld, a simple device, vertical pivot in front of platform, horizontal pivots around little sticky out bits on the rear quick release.
Has carried fairly serious loads. Dont reccomend cookers though.
mind you 60kg is a lot of weight, maybe a twin wheel design might be better, or a dedicated haulage bike, eg long wheel base and twin rear wheels, or maybe a sidecar style set up.
Chunko'.
Alfaman
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Astro,
I built a trailer for a mate last year, he uses it to ferry his two toddlers to/from nursery, hence I obviously over-engineered it! Sorry, but I didn't take any pics
The frame of the trailer was SS 1" tube.
I used a vauxhall Meriva track-rod end (15 quid brand new) as the hitch to a bolt-on bracket on the rear triangle. Worked very well, more than up to the job and very weatherproof. Still going strong, and it towed my 95kg as a road test for a couple of miles!
I built a trailer for a mate last year, he uses it to ferry his two toddlers to/from nursery, hence I obviously over-engineered it! Sorry, but I didn't take any pics
The frame of the trailer was SS 1" tube. I used a vauxhall Meriva track-rod end (15 quid brand new) as the hitch to a bolt-on bracket on the rear triangle. Worked very well, more than up to the job and very weatherproof. Still going strong, and it towed my 95kg as a road test for a couple of miles!
rtcosic
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Remember spoked bicycle type wheels do not take kindly to side loads. Dear old Dad made several such crude ones back in the 50's. Wooden 'box' with old wheels & forks bolted to the sides and some random trackrod end type fitting to the saddle tube. Wheels regularly needed replacing due to side loads.
mart
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Great little interest Astro. I wanted to do this myself (always something else to do-you know how it is). But, here is some great info-let us know how you get on, including some pics. Good luck.
http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~armb/cycling/trailer.html
http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~armb/cycling/trailer.html
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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Try your local free cycle or a disability centre that repairs wheel chairs and sak for a pair of wheel chair wheels with solid tyres and plastic wheel rims ..
I have such a set and they came off chair was able to carry a 20 stone person .
The sealed for life bearings are brilliant and on precision bolts
For £25 each you used to be able to buy a 500 mm heavy duty plastic wheel with a 75 mm ( approx ) wide with solid tyres on ebay but I've not seen then for a while.
rosshandling.co.uk sell the plastic wheel chair wheels with solid tyres ...
I have such a set and they came off chair was able to carry a 20 stone person .
The sealed for life bearings are brilliant and on precision bolts
For £25 each you used to be able to buy a 500 mm heavy duty plastic wheel with a 75 mm ( approx ) wide with solid tyres on ebay but I've not seen then for a while.
rosshandling.co.uk sell the plastic wheel chair wheels with solid tyres ...
Chucko, could you please elaborate a bit on how that trailer attaches to the bike? I'd like to build a trailer for my chopper bike, but I don't know how to connect the trailer to the bike. I want the connector on the bike to be fairly inconspicious when the trailer isn't being used.
Thanks!
chunkolini
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Hi Joker
The Bob trailer? here is alink to SJS who sell them with some detail shots.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-...-Wheels--with-QR-and-Yak-Sak--Black-11848.htm
A very simple design, there is a small cotton reel shaped piece on each side of the rear wheel quick release, and there are simple cut dropouts like on a front fork on each side of the front section of the trailer that drop on the cotton reels and secure via split pins. If making your own it would be easier to have the fittings welded onto the rear triangle just in front of the drop outs and the same attachment method.
Our trailer has covered thousands of miles.
Chunko'.
The Bob trailer? here is alink to SJS who sell them with some detail shots.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-...-Wheels--with-QR-and-Yak-Sak--Black-11848.htm
A very simple design, there is a small cotton reel shaped piece on each side of the rear wheel quick release, and there are simple cut dropouts like on a front fork on each side of the front section of the trailer that drop on the cotton reels and secure via split pins. If making your own it would be easier to have the fittings welded onto the rear triangle just in front of the drop outs and the same attachment method.
Our trailer has covered thousands of miles.
Chunko'.
chunkolini
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On the BOB trailer they are small steel items, about 25m in diameter, with a 3mm groove for the trailer fitting to rest in. Theoretically the steel cotton reels pivot around bolts mounted into the quick release. In practice they eventually seize up and the dropout pivots around the reel thingy. So by my reckoning to make them, have a nut or threaded fitting welded onto the frame just in front of the rear dropout, put a bolt into that with a small sleeve for the trailer to pivot around, job done.
It is easy to look at another device and work out an alternative, the clever bit is getting the first idea.
Edit, in fact use the orignal mudguard mounts, M5 bolt into them with whatever fitting you can devise. That might almost be getting clever
Chunko'.
It is easy to look at another device and work out an alternative, the clever bit is getting the first idea.
Edit, in fact use the orignal mudguard mounts, M5 bolt into them with whatever fitting you can devise. That might almost be getting clever
Chunko'.
Thanks guys! Much appreciated. Sorry for the thread hi-jack!
The problem I'm having is that I want to keep the rear of the bike clean, and there's not very much space to begin with, where to mount anything. However, I think you're both right about that this way is really a good way to connect the trailer.
Here's what the area looks like.
Thanks again! Hope astro_al is making progress.
The problem I'm having is that I want to keep the rear of the bike clean, and there's not very much space to begin with, where to mount anything. However, I think you're both right about that this way is really a good way to connect the trailer.
Here's what the area looks like.
Thanks again! Hope astro_al is making progress.
chunkolini
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Mr Joker,
How is the trailer going to pivot up and down over bumps etc?
Or have I missed something? this stuff is kind of fun though.
Chunko'.
How is the trailer going to pivot up and down over bumps etc?
Or have I missed something? this stuff is kind of fun though.
Chunko'.
TBD - To be designed.
It, first of all, depends on where the trailer will be attached. Once I've figured that one out, we'll see how. If I were to attach it to the frame close to the rear hub, then I think the best thing is to have it pivot up-down at (or very near) the fastener. Then use an old headstock for sideways movement. If, on the other hand, it's attached to (or close to) the seat post, I think that it could, again, pivot up-down at the fastener. Both solutions have their own negatives and positives. Sadly I have put the trailer project on hold for now. Awaiting longer, darker nights. Ideas are always welcome, though.
Mike Brass
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If you want a few easy tips, I’ve built loads of trailers over the years, I’ve got a few drawing lying around here I could post up.
The simplest linkage to use is a roller caster, remove the wheel and place the caster on its side, the bearing will then allow vertical movement. Using 20mm round bar drill a hole slightly larger than the bolt that holds the wheel in place weld that to the tube that will attach to the trailer and bolt it to the caster this gives you horizontal pivoting.
Wheel wise use 20” wheels keeps the centre of gravity low without having to over complicate the frame. For big load trailers its best to support the wheel axle from both sides, so think about boxing around the wheels.
And last a simple way of attaching it to the axle is by using axle adaptors for kids stabilizers, its a hex shaped nut 15mm wide by about 30mm long one side has a 10mm thread in it the other 3/8”, these are the two standard threaded axle sizes. They also have two corresponding bolts you use the main nut to secure your wheel then you have the bolt on the other size to attach your linkage to.
Anything else feel free to give me a shout
The simplest linkage to use is a roller caster, remove the wheel and place the caster on its side, the bearing will then allow vertical movement. Using 20mm round bar drill a hole slightly larger than the bolt that holds the wheel in place weld that to the tube that will attach to the trailer and bolt it to the caster this gives you horizontal pivoting.
Wheel wise use 20” wheels keeps the centre of gravity low without having to over complicate the frame. For big load trailers its best to support the wheel axle from both sides, so think about boxing around the wheels.
And last a simple way of attaching it to the axle is by using axle adaptors for kids stabilizers, its a hex shaped nut 15mm wide by about 30mm long one side has a 10mm thread in it the other 3/8”, these are the two standard threaded axle sizes. They also have two corresponding bolts you use the main nut to secure your wheel then you have the bolt on the other size to attach your linkage to.
Anything else feel free to give me a shout
