blasting setup (2)

[Matchless]

similar to the recent post, setting up my blasting room, I used to have a homemade cabinet with a suction setup before, mainly glass bead, but would like to be able to blast a motorcycle frame or car bootlid / bonnet within reason so I have made a 6' long 2' deep trough, will make the front when I get the tig going, alloy frame, maybe two viewing windows and four glove holes, I have the 10 gallon pot pictured, auction find, and the portable suction / extraction setup, thinking of using that to extract dust from the cabinet but still have it available for blasting in the workshop, I think using the pressure pot in the workshop will be just too messy?? I also have the Clark? benchtop cabinet that I will use for glass bead, and an extra tank on the floor,

I understand there is a post regarding mods to the pressure pot, I will look that up, never used one yet.

Should I put the final water trap before or after the floor mounted tank?

I suppose if the dust extraction in not enough I can alter it later, will be a big cabinet so may need more, also I had thought that I may add a small say 750mm square table in the corner under the window to use for plasma cutting (Lidl special) as most of what I do will be either on the car or smaller parts for motorcycles then I thought why not plasma cut inside the blast cabinet, well lit, extraction, what have I missed? thoughts on the above please.....

any thoughts?

 

[brightspark]

the water separator wants to be on the pressure pot I wouldn't be doing bonnets and boots with it the heat and letting the stress out of the metal will ruin them ifyou haven't already done it cut the blas tjet -gun of the end of hose and fit a carbide jet on it and turn on and off from a ball valve next to water separator

 

[Matchless]

the water separator wants to be on the pressure pot I wouldn't be doing bonnets and boots with it the heat and letting the stress out of the metal will ruin them ifyou haven't already done it cut the blas tjet -gun of the end of hose and fit a carbide jet on it and turn on and off from a ball valve next to water separator

I have in mind the edges where the top skin is turned over on the Mk2 Jaguar and MGA bonnets and boot lids, not the main surfaces, the MGA may need some alloy let in as well, that can wait a while and even then may not be possible,

 

[brightspark]

I have in mind the edges where the top skin is turned over on the Mk2 Jaguar and MGA bonnets and boot lids, not the main surfaces, the MGA may need some alloy let in as well, that can wait a while and even then may not be possible,

just be carefull and do a test piece on bonnets I did just round the edges of a couple of bonnets and they let go ruining them I used to do blasting and stopped doing flat surface panels after ruining one of my own and a customers mga bonnet I did tell him but he still wanted it doing

 

[Matchless]

I will try the spare panels first, have a couple of everything, rusty, better, best,

 

[brightspark]

its not realy noticeable till after you have sprayed them and polished then light on them