brushed nickel pipe supplier

[Fazerruss]

Good evening chaps I'm looking for a supplier for the above in 25mm OD. Its to make some curtain rails for our conservatory. I would like it to be in minimum 2.5M lengths so to reduce the number of brackets needed. Effectively I need to span 5M and two 3.2M windows. Ideally I would use stainless steel but the cost would be excessive.
The only place I can find any brushed nickel in the desired length is B&Q at eye watering prices for what is a cheap non structural material. I just want something that looks like the rest of the fittings in the house which are either nickel or stainless. Thoughts please?
Thanks
Russ

 

[Fazerruss]

This is the finish I'm after......

 

[hotrodder]

Ideally I would use stainless steel but the cost would be excessive.

Price it at a proper stainless stockholder, you'll probably get a pleasant suprise... couldn't find the brushed nickel longer than 1.83m on B&Qs site, homebase 2.44m for £16 while a full length of 1" 16swg 304 bright polished is £19.34 + VAT on the parkersteel site. Stainless & non ferrous specialists will typically carry a wider range than them, Aalco for example will also offer 1" 18swg in polished as well as descaled and 'proper' metric sizes

 

[Paul.]

I make a few curtain rails in stainless, decent ready made brackets will cost you more than the tube, I pay less than £3 per metre (plus vat) for 1" x 16swg stainless, they come in 6 metre lengths, there's not much difference in price between bright polished and dull polished, the dull polished tube has the grain going round the tube rather than along the length, this is ok for some customers but I prefer to see the grain lengthwise, its easy to achieve though, just buy bright tube and grain it with scotchbrite, it takes just a few minutes,
Also if buying proprietary curtain rail brackets and finials you will find that a lot of them are designed for 28mm od tube, which is not available in stainless I get round this by cutting a short length of tube, slit it to open it up and slip it over the rail to suit the bracket location and hold it with a small tack in the opened up slit with the tig, position the joint at the back, you'll never see it.