Michaelreddo
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- Thread starter Michaelreddo
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angellonewolf
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even if its the right way to do it if it failed it was not done right
slim_boy_fat
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Can't see that being a problem. After all, your fuel tank isn't copper, although increasingly it could be plastic.
normspanners
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There is no problem with the mot as regards this repair BUT why such a short piece ?? seems strange,
although steel is very hard to swage with some tools and tends to push the pipe through the clamps, it still should be a leakless repair and tested as such under extreme pressure.
although steel is very hard to swage with some tools and tends to push the pipe through the clamps, it still should be a leakless repair and tested as such under extreme pressure.
CompoSimmonite
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My car failed MOT on a brake pipe. When I came to replace the pipe I found it would be a major job, and seeing a rebuild was planned over winter anyway, decided to just replace the rusty section as the rest of the pipe was perfect. As above I found the original steel very difficult to form a proper flare and ended up cutting the first attempt off before being sucessful the second time. This was using a proper, rather than univeral, brake flaring tool. I suspect garage has the same problem as me, on first attempt, and didn't form the correct flare and that is what failed ?
johnik
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it,s very hard to get a proper end on steel pipes unless you use a proper vice mounted tool, obviously you cant use a vice mounted one in such a space and therefore get a good end.
whenever i have had to replace a metal brake pipe,i have always replaced the whole run,can be a pain on some cars but better than having what happened there happen.
take it back and demand a refund at the very least.
whenever i have had to replace a metal brake pipe,i have always replaced the whole run,can be a pain on some cars but better than having what happened there happen.
take it back and demand a refund at the very least.
normspanners
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I have modified my ancient sykes vice one to a portable one by welding nuts onto it in various angles to take a 10mm thread grinder handle, and use it with my makita impact wrench
TIP boyos------to help flare steel pipe you need to use a fine file to slightly curve the od end of the cut, to help it initiate/ start the flare, in the op 1 dia, it makes a massive difference to the end wanting to 'dive in'
slim_boy_fat
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daedalusminos
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They probably failed to prep the steel end properly - they should have removed all traces of coating.
I'm not keen on copper - too soft and too easy to overtighten and distort the flare. Far prefer Kunifer (copper nickel).
I'm not keen on copper - too soft and too easy to overtighten and distort the flare. Far prefer Kunifer (copper nickel).
The problem with those kind of repairs is you are relying on the two ends of the pipe being nicely flared and mating up, better way to do pipe joins if to use a female/female or male/male and then have the corresponding fittings on the pipe. That way each pipe has it's own independant seating surface.
That only applies if you are using one of the mickey mouse flaring tools. Sykes Flaremaster2 is a hand held hydraulic unit that will flare steel on the vehicle no problem at all. There are others out there too
Copper/nickel is better for sure but there is no law in this country that says you can't use copper. From the colour I would guess that's copper
Cobbler
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I think you will find most of the garages use copper, I understand it's illegal in the states, this was mentioned in a previous post.
doubleboost
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Common repair
I always use a union that takes 2 male nuts with opp 1 flares
Copper is used all the time no problem as long as it is well clipped
When I served my time it was all steel (bundy) pipe a real pain to bend and flare
Next time I have to join a steel pipe I will do a video showing how I do it
I always use a union that takes 2 male nuts with opp 1 flares
Copper is used all the time no problem as long as it is well clipped
When I served my time it was all steel (bundy) pipe a real pain to bend and flare
Next time I have to join a steel pipe I will do a video showing how I do it
brightspark
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I'm sick of hearing copper cant be used and all the horror stories about it 
clipped properly and there's no problem .its used on steam boilers and engines @150psi pressure no problem
clipped properly and there's no problem .its used on steam boilers and engines @150psi pressure no problem
Ton-up
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I'm sick of hearing copper cant be used and all the horror stories about it
Clipped properly its ok, but brake lines can go over 2000psi.
brightspark
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have u ever seen steam let go at 150 psi
you wouldn't get public liability insurance if it did on models or a full size engine 