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Any reason why it has to be that exact flux? Based on the melting temp Castolin 190 wire is 4047 aluminium which is the usual suspect for brazing aluminium i.e. plenty of aluminium brazing fluxes to choose from
Nothing special about their 190 flux, contains the usual suspect lithium fluoride... http://www.digitalweld.co.nz/uploads/Data_Sheets/EutecTor%20Flux%20190.pdf
ETA, 4047 is often described as AlSi12. Wire and suitable fluxes here... http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/joining-aluminium-c100014.html. For a more local source be worth checking out any local air conditioning specialists as they use it
Nothing special about their 190 flux, contains the usual suspect lithium fluoride... http://www.digitalweld.co.nz/uploads/Data_Sheets/EutecTor%20Flux%20190.pdf
ETA, 4047 is often described as AlSi12. Wire and suitable fluxes here... http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/joining-aluminium-c100014.html. For a more local source be worth checking out any local air conditioning specialists as they use it
No it does not matter to me what the make is it was recommended to me by another welder for this job that has to be done. But I know nothing about alloy welding so I need to get the correct product for the job and I need to be able to order it from the web.
What is the job and do you know what flavour of aluminium the base material is? The stuff mentioned in the origional post is for oxy fuel brazing aluminium i.e. not melting the base metal. While it does kinda work for welding aluminium it's designed to work at lower temps for aluminium-silicon alloys which have a slightly lower melting temp
I take it this is related to this thread then? http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=37705 As was said in that thread post some more pics so we can get a better idea of the entire part. Could be cast aluminium, probably is but as said could be a zinc die casting which can't be fixed with ally consumables.
Is the crack from normal use or has it been crashed/bashed into something?
The friend that's good at brazing... brazing steel/plumbing type stuff is VERY different to brazing or gas welding ally. If he hasn't got any ally consumables/fluxes i'd be questioning whether he's enough experience of ally?
The rods that Kemppifrog mentioned with a melting temp of 1070F will be 4047. If it's cast ally they will work, i'm guessing that's why you're looking flux now? If so the AlSi12 flux i linked to earlier will work
If you're desperate to get this back together and struggling to find someone with ally welding experience then could look into a 'self fluxing' aluminium solder... it's the sort of stuff sold by snake oil salesmen as a "fix all wonder rod". It's low temperature, strong and hard but brittle. It's usually a bunch cheaper from a proper welding supplier like for example http://www.rapidwelding.com/dynamic/DisplayItem.aspx?c=RO5532XX. Also goes by names like 'durafix' and 'lumniweld', it's mostly zinc and works on both aluminium and zinc based metals
Despite it's low melting temp you'll almost certainly need oxy fuel (i.e. oxy acetylene or oxy propane etc) to get the part hot enough for it to work... the snake oil types that sell it often give the impression that a normal plumbers torch will work but small components aside they don't produce enough heat to get a large chunk of ally up to temp
If someone makes a mess of an attempt repairing it using the zinc based self fluxing aluminium solders it'd make a proper TIG welding repair more difficult/spendy. As was said in the other thread could take it apart and send the broken bit to one of us here to stick back together
Is the crack from normal use or has it been crashed/bashed into something?
The friend that's good at brazing... brazing steel/plumbing type stuff is VERY different to brazing or gas welding ally. If he hasn't got any ally consumables/fluxes i'd be questioning whether he's enough experience of ally?
The rods that Kemppifrog mentioned with a melting temp of 1070F will be 4047. If it's cast ally they will work, i'm guessing that's why you're looking flux now? If so the AlSi12 flux i linked to earlier will work
If you're desperate to get this back together and struggling to find someone with ally welding experience then could look into a 'self fluxing' aluminium solder... it's the sort of stuff sold by snake oil salesmen as a "fix all wonder rod". It's low temperature, strong and hard but brittle. It's usually a bunch cheaper from a proper welding supplier like for example http://www.rapidwelding.com/dynamic/DisplayItem.aspx?c=RO5532XX. Also goes by names like 'durafix' and 'lumniweld', it's mostly zinc and works on both aluminium and zinc based metals
Despite it's low melting temp you'll almost certainly need oxy fuel (i.e. oxy acetylene or oxy propane etc) to get the part hot enough for it to work... the snake oil types that sell it often give the impression that a normal plumbers torch will work but small components aside they don't produce enough heat to get a large chunk of ally up to temp
If someone makes a mess of an attempt repairing it using the zinc based self fluxing aluminium solders it'd make a proper TIG welding repair more difficult/spendy. As was said in the other thread could take it apart and send the broken bit to one of us here to stick back together
Q1 No no accident accept a user pushed the handles left and then right to get it to work in the type of heavy soil in this area, whereas he should have just kept in a straight line and one a bit at a time. I would say also that the casing does seam a bit thin where it is broken.
Q2 Yes looking for the flux that Kemppifrog mention after he kindly supplied the rods.
I have managed to break down all components so that the casing is empty, I have also left the casing on my large wood stove to heat up slowly in the hopes that some of the oils would go but so far not much oil has come out.
I will put up some more pics though.
The problem with sending to UK is the cost as a new casing is £200 but the postage from here to the UK and back is quite expensive, but it's a thought.
I will get some pics to you tomorrow ok.
Q2 Yes looking for the flux that Kemppifrog mention after he kindly supplied the rods.
I have managed to break down all components so that the casing is empty, I have also left the casing on my large wood stove to heat up slowly in the hopes that some of the oils would go but so far not much oil has come out.
I will put up some more pics though.
The problem with sending to UK is the cost as a new casing is £200 but the postage from here to the UK and back is quite expensive, but it's a thought.
I will get some pics to you tomorrow ok.
I was thinking about the member that volunteered in the other thread but i've just realised it was Bob (aametalmaster) and he's in the States which puts postage up lots. If you get really stuck i could fix it BUT currently i've got a months + work to wade through which doesn't fit with your ASAP needs.
