Cebora 130 feed issues

[RonA]

I’ve just been welding some 2 mm plate on my project car & have again had issues with my Cebora 130 feed.
Ive had the machine for quite a few years but despite it proving long lived the feed has always caused me problems.
I ditched 0.6 mm wire in favour of 0.8 years ago, I just couldnt get the reliability I was seeking with 0.6. I replaced liner & feed spring but not noticed a significant improvement.
The feed seems to be determined by the way the feed tube is curled away from the machine. If it the feed tube is perfectly straight I seem to get feed issues, if I put a curl in it & all is well with the feed. Its remembering to curl the feed tube the same way each time before welding thats annoying.
Anybody have this machine & experiencing similar issues, hopefully with a way to overcome them. Im getting to the point of considering a new machine but the Cebora keeps plodding on & Im reluctant to get rid of it.
RonA

 

[mike 109444]

What are you using size wise for a liner ?
If to big then there is room for the wire to snake inside the liner giving inconsistent feed (flow of wire) maybe. For what one would cost you could try the good old net curtain wire. I assume you are using the original torch assembly (non euro torch) and therefore it is <2 meters ? If it is a euro one and 4 meters then they can be a pain for that especially with 0.6mm wire (which I know you said you have stopped using).
Another possible cause maybe backlash in the feed assemble that is taken out (torch lead straight) when you give the wire some resistance to push against (torch lead curled). Worth looking at the feed area for any cracks in the plastic parts (several of the smaller feeders seam to get this) also check that the gap on the rollers is even either side of the wire groove (using feeler gauges to check). Check for run-out of the feed (powered) roller, easy if you have a DTI.
None of the above may be the cause of your problem BUT worth a check along with wire spool clutch, quality of wire and how well it's been wound. There is also something called "cast" (think that's the correct term) where the way the wire has been wound or formed can affect the feeding. It amounts to taking a couple of turns of wire off the spool and allowing it to fall on a flat surface and depending how it "lays" determines if there is an issue. You will need the search the site for a correct explanation of this as I am only going by my recollection of the description. Maybe someone reading this will point you to it (think it was Technical Al that wrote up on it ?)

 

[130]

My Snap Mig 130 is a world different for removing the clapper arm and having the 30 years of grit and dust removed from the joint so now it tensions properly
Just saying

 

[RonA]

Hi Mike,
First it is the original torch & approx 2 metres in length. The drive mechanism has had new parts (the original broke I think I was putting too much pressure on it) so Im pretty sure there are no cracks in the replacement parts. I put a small metal strap to stop the pivot on the drive mechanism flexing as effectively in its original design a cantilevered setup & almost guaranteed to break.
I did have a problem with wire spool “drag” as the spring holding it was putting too much pressure on the spool but I have now modified the spring arrgt such that it just holds the drum but with minimal “drag”.
The ‘cast’ of the wire is something Ive not heard of before but will check out, along with run out on the drive roller.
RonA

 

[RonA]

My Snap Mig 130 is a world different for removing the clapper arm and having the 30 years of grit and dust removed from the joint so now it tensions properly
Just saying

Will check it out along with the above.
RonA