Clear coat application 1k or 2 whats best

[allkarma]

Hi everyone,i first of would like to say thanks to all the help on my
"Can you wet sand 2k base coat " you was loads of help.
I have applied my base coat a 1k black metalic pearl which came out better than expected,now time for clear coat.
I was wondering which is the best clear coat to use to achive a high difention gloss fisnish,ie which is best to wet sand out any imperfections and machine buff 1k (paint+thinner) or 2 pac (paint+activator+thinner) .
Also what brands do you guys recommend ,there is too many out there.
I have found U-POL, B.S HS , OMI -CRON, HB body clear and pro spray are available on the net.
Thanks everyone

 

[danelectro]

Hi There,

Well, firstly SAFETY, 2k is lethal stuff so you MUST have an air fed mask, and good extraction from your garage or wherever you're spraying, and also remember your neighbours, you don't want to give them a dose of 2K either!
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-safety.htm

Secondly, 2k will give you the best finish, it's hard, durable, and will last and you can polish it if you make a mistake. 1k is not as lethal as 2k, but you will lose the hardness, and durability, but it's easily polishable, so you can achieve a good finish.

Lastly, you really need to do your basecoat and clearcoat as one process, it's no good leaving the basecoat for a couple of days then putting the clearcoat on, as it won't have the adhesion to the base. I don't know what paint you're using, but the technical data sheet will tell you.

As for your last question, well it's a tricky one, I personally have only used the likes of ICI (nexa) autocolour products and Max Meyer stuff, the ones you've listed I haven't got a clue!!!!

hope this helps

 

[Chipper]

I liked U-Pol, didn't like Mipa 2k clear (plasticky), got another but can't remember what make - Lechler I think. Strictly a shed-based life form, not a pro, so take that for what it's worth...
O yes, got a Max Meyer one, that seems good.
I guess HS = High Solids.

 

[tux]

danelectro seems to have summed that up quite nicely.

Check the data sheet for the paint you are using and find out what the clear coat "window" is. If you have missed it, you will need to flat the paint ans shoot more basecoat before you clear.

Most clearcoat windows seem to be a few hours, but there are some that are as long as a week, though this is uncommon.

 

[Chipper]

Isn't it the basecoat that has the window? Some guys have said they allow as much as 24hrs max, but I like to give it one hour and then 2k it.

Never used 1k clear, maybe the hotter mix means the basecoat window doesn't matter so much (much more reducer than 2k). 1k is quite easy to wake up. Just a guess though.

 

[tux]

I guess you could call it a basecoat window, its just the terminology that I personally have learned. Basically the window you have to apply clearcoat onto the base.

 

[danelectro]

Why thank you tux, very kind !!!!!

The window is the time between basecoat and clearcoat, should you be outside of this window (as per manufacturers data sheet) then you run the risk of the clearcoat not adhering to the basecoat, thus the clearcoat COULD fail and peel off of the basecoat. it's best to shoot the clearcoat before such time as the basecoat fully dries.

I've found (products I've used) the clearcoat is applied between 10 and 30 mins, and I've never had a problem.

I personally wouldn't trust a 24 hr period before clearcoat, think it's asking for trouble.

Here is the TDS for Max Meyer basecoat that I use:
https://buyat.ppg.com/Refinish_SSA/...=3&IntDialCode=44&PdfId=701&ProductCode=Serie 180 - 181

 

[steveo3002]

yep you need to be clearcoating as soon as the base has flashed off...such as 20-30mins

 

[the snooper]

aswell as the laquer not adhering to the base if left too long there is also a contamination risk and we all know or should, that you can not touch the base coat before you laquer it