Compressed air line

[Maker]

Finally doing something about this;


That black hose is my current air line and while it's worked for about three years it's always needed doing properly. The plan is to use 22mm copper tubing and soldered fittings (Might be able to get my hands on a bender too) to get air from the compressor in the shed through to the garage where I'll use the same black flexy hose. A few questions first though;


The regulator/filter thing (not sure why it's at a funny angle) is that best left on the compressor or moved to the garage on the other end of the new piping? Would I also be better connecting to one of the big bungs on the end of the tank? Or even the one underneath so water cant build up in the tank?

I want a short bit of flexy between the compressor and the pipe, I've seen tap connectors like this rated for 15 bar, that would be fine wouldn't it?

There will of course be a couple of tees with a valve to drain any water. I' only gonna have the one QR fitting in the garage for now but in the future I may extend it. Am I overlooking anything?

 

[rtbcomp]

Move the reg as near to the point of delivery as possible, this keeps the pipework at high pressure so the air will flow through better and it will be at a higher temp than after the reg so cooling will be better.

Take the air directly from the tank if you can, preferably not at the bottom, you don't want water in the air line, you want it to collect in the tank and drain it from time to time.

I'd use proper flexible air line from the tank to the pipework.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm

 

[mr migwire]

ive always had a flexi between the comp and the plumbing just to negate any vibration. i usually use a small length of bog standard air line for the flexi.

 

[Maker]

I'd use proper flexible air line from the tank to the pipework.

That's what I wanted to do but the one I've got has crimped fittings and came like that, can you buy a short length of hose and put fittings on the end yourself without special crimping tools? I'm guessing a hose barb and jubilee clip?

Edit: Just found this thread, I've got the same pliers Wallace posted somewhere, never knew what they were for. I'll have a look for a suitable hose (Or maybe just cut a couple feet off the one I've already got. )

 

[rtbcomp]

I'd use barbed fittings.

 

[frank horton]

As for the shut off valve I’d be using lever ball valves, less than a fiver...S/fix etc
Ur example is'nt really good enough....
Put a couple of quick release fittings on the end of the comp flex’s hose..(ease of moving, outside punctures etc)
Short flying hoses are just few quid from the bay of fleas....
Personally I’d be using galv pipe and fittings for the main pipe work....not expensive anymore....
My compressors are left live 24/7 BUT on every outlet there is a ball lever valve so no airline is under press except in use...
Just say'in

 

[Maker]

I had been wanting to use steel pipe but couldn't find it cheap anywhere. I'd have to get it threaded too, copper's far easier for me to work with (And I've already got a bucket of fittings).

So, I'll get a 1/2" PCL fitting to screw into the tank on the compressor, a whip to plug into the compressor and a valve to isolate the pipe from the compressor tank.

 

[the snooper]

Dont forget to add water drains

 

[Luke]

The standard regulator and tap are purposely restricted to limit flow. Have a look down the bore and you'll see.

It's much better to use the bung in the end, with a flexi pipe, but you then need to be aware that you'll have to manage the duty cycle your self, or the thermal cutout on the motor might do it for you...

I've used 1/2" ball valves and plumbing flexi hose for the link between the tank and the fixed piping.

 

[printcom]

I have just used this stuff, much cheaper then copper and was really simple to put up.
https://pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d29.html

 

[Maker]

Don't think I've ever completed a project so fast!

One slight problem though, the regulator screws on to the pipe but is too close to the wall to actually turn, I had to disassemble it, screw the body on, then reassemble it, now it has an intermittent leak . I think there's just enough room to cut it off and get a straight, compression coupler in there. I'll keep an eye out for a cheap Norgren or similar and replace it in the summer I think. There's also a cheap plastic valve slowly leaking on the compressor, I'll just blank it off when the tank is empty.

Thanks for all the advice.