compressor cold start issues

[bawjaws]

got a wee problem with the compressor, its been like this since i first got it a few years back but is starting to bug me now, basically it toils to start up initially and especially when its cold, infact when i heat the cylinder up a bit with the gas axe (low heat) itll fire up no sweat, but to save the inconvenience of getting the burning gear out every time i need the compressor, ive done a 'temporary' repair to it, replacing the cold start spring valve thing for a butterfly valve, so i can keep it open untill the motor is up to speed then shut it manually, which infact is still a pain in the a***, so im needing to get it sorted, compressor mechanicals all seem fine, stops and starts at right pressures, no funny noises etc so can only presume that its electrical?, to which i know very little about so has anyone got any ideas? the word capacitor is rattling about in my head but not too sure if i even know what one is to be honest

oh, and its a clarke industrial 50l single phase belt driven jobby!, thanks in advance!......

 

[tigler]

There was a BIG thread on this issue recently. Turned out to be a faulty motor. Cap is a possibilty but when they fail it usually results in a motor that won't even run.

 

[rtbcomp]

Have you fitted the butterfly valve to the thin pipe that goes from the non return valve to the pressure switch?

 

[bawjaws]

There was a BIG thread on this issue recently. Turned out to be a faulty motor. Cap is a possibilty but when they fail it usually results in a motor that won't even run.

hmm, not good then, new compressor perhaps.....

Have you fitted the butterfly valve to the thin pipe that goes from the non return valve to the pressure switch?

no, just replaced the cold start valve with one, just on the exhaust side of the cylinder, basically so the air empties out into the garage instead of going to the tank until the valve is closed

 

[rtbcomp]

Right, so yours is fitted with a little brass spring loaded valve on the pump outlet. Not all compressors have these, their function is performed by a delayed action unloading valve in the switch.

Is the valve you took out working OK?

 

[bawjaws]

yup the valve was working fine that wasnt the problem for sure, as even with the valve completely open it struggles to get up to running speed on some cold days and ends up tripping the switch, only when the compressor is warm it works well, so its like it just needs that bit better of an initial burst to get it going. mabey im not explaining it well enough tho, just say lol

 

[the snooper]

is your power supply up to the inrush current needed

 

[bawjaws]

just had a look at the capacitor and printed on it is 450VAC , could this be the problem or am i missing some kind of mad electrical equations here? , its been a 230v one since ive had it!

 

[bawjaws]

is your power supply up to the inrush current needed

hmmm should be, think its the 2.5mm grey wire, which should be enough shurely?

 

[shenion]

As log as the cap voltage is higher, there is no problem. The voltage on the cap is the maximum it can handle.

Replacing the caps is a good idea, they get weak over time.

 

[tigler]

Thats normal voltage for a motor cap, it's to handle the inverse surges from the motor windings.
Does it have any bulges in the side or ends ?

 

[bawjaws]

not that i can remember from looking at it, think ill just order one off ebay the now, its only a tenner, if it doesnt work then its new compressor time me thinks

 

[bawjaws]

just to close off the thread, got the capacitor through on thursday and fitted it along with the original spring type valve thing, and the compressor works as it should now , thanks for the input guys, saved me a small fortune! now to look for new hoses............

 

[tigler]

Well done, we aim to please ! I dread to think how many compressors have been junked for the sake of a motor cap or non return valve !

 

[mred406]

What cap did you end up buying, is there just 1 on your compressor or 2?