Compressor Pipework - Considerations

[DunnyD]

I have read all sorts on here and other sites with regards to considerations for compressor pipework. I have bought a Clarke SE37C270ND which has a 1/2 inch ball valve on with a 3/4 BSP female outlet and I want to put some pipework in place so I can run various tools.

My main considerations are that I need a wide bore direct connection to my blasting pot and an outlet for my air tools. I would like to extend to other outlets later but not important right now.

I understand that the best connections for the air tools are EURO as opposed to PCL? I only recently changed my airtools to PCL so I guess I would need to change them back again!!

I further understand that there are then a number of other considerations - widest bore pipework is best (e.g. 22mm??), water trap(s), water drier(s), pressure regulator, flexible pipe from the compressor to minimise connections loosening through vibration.

Is there a guide or better still a diagram anywhere that illustrates whats best? I have seen the other thread on this but this is based on 15mm and just a normal regulator/separator.

I only want to do this once and would like to get it right for my needs.

Thanks

D

 

[Dunny]

Any comments chaps? Was hoping to get some of the bits today. Any reccomendations as to where is best?

Is it wise to stay with a 22mm fit where possible?

D

 

[Burdekin]

Danny, nice compressor. I'm no expert but there are other guys on here that do blasting. How long are your lines, there guides on the net with regard to pipe size, one example: http://www.air-compressor-guide.com...piping/compressed-air-pipe-sizing-calculation

22mm is going to be better but more expensive, if you've got the budget for 22mm then go 22mm. I got my piping and fittings from screwfix. Will you be spraying? If not then just follow this guide: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm if water is still a problem then look at options to add another receiver near the end or a way to cool the air to drop more water out etc but you may not need to.

I got these filters, a standard and oil. http://www.airaccessories.co.uk/pneumatic-equipment/metal-work-standard-frl-new-deal

 

[Dunny]

Thanks Burdekin.

I am struggling with this for some reason!!

Do I make the first connection, (forgetting the blast pot as that will just be direct off a 'T'), to the regulator and out to a EURO connector? Is this enough for the air tools? When it comes to spraying though I need to go through a some sort of drier and another regulator/filter set up?

I want to go and buy the fittings but I am still not clear what I should get!!

As I mentioned in the other thread I have just bought this for the air tools (it has an oiler so no good for spraying):-

D

 

[Burdekin]

Yeah that's fine. So compressor, flexi line to 22mm hard line to standard filter regulator with a euro coupling after the regulator. You don't need a oiler, just put a little bit of machine oil down each tool before you use it.
Do you use the tools a.lot? If not then then something like a hard line to a filter regulator then air line reel would be fine as you have plenty of capacity.

You may not need another drier or regulator, if you have a couple of drop legs along the way it may take out enough of the moisture for you but I don't know as have never used a blasting setup

 

[normspanners]

use 22mm ish copper or steel ,IMO
Make your take off legs from the top of your main line tee 90* up and then turn then down, to take as much dry air from the top as poss, then have main line continue past your last take off, have it dropping, NOT LEVEL all the way, from start to the end, to a drain tap that comes from the bottom of the main line ie 90* down. so that condensate runs down the bottom of the main and is collected at the drain down leg .
Have the take off for blaster as the last take off of the main run, if poss to get as much cooling as poss before the gun .

 

[Bill Edwards]

If you want to use that regulator for spraying then leave the lubricator part dry.

 

[Dunny]

Thanks Chaps....much appreciated. So many knowledgeable people on this forum!!

I have gone for.....

• 3/4 BSP to 18mm hose tail to 1m flexible pipe to a 3/4 BSP 'T'.
• From the T going straight out there is a 3/4 ball valve to an 18mm hose tail that will feed the blast pot.
• The upward T has another 1m flexible hose up to another 3/4 BSP T this continues up to a 22mm copper pipe that will be blanked or valved off for now.
• The other part of the T goes out horizontally in flexible pipe for another meter and joins the regulator
• The regulator goes out to a EURO connector.

I have gone for hydraulic standard fittings as they are very robust (up to 700 Bar!!) but also they are wide bore.

I will post a pic tomorrow or once its assembled.

In terms of water drains then I can drain from the bottom of the tank, which will be the lowest point, or from the main outlet (which is halfway up the tank) or from the separator on the regulator. Beyond all of this is the lube for the air tools so this wont contaminate anything.

Once I am ready for the next leg I can straight up and then out horizontally and then into whatever config I then choose to have,

Hopefully this all seems sensible?

Took me a while to get around this stuff!!

D

 

[Dunny]

Some photos of the flexible pipe set up I said I would post:-

Pipe out of the compressor direct to blast pot with the other leg going straight up to another T.

Pipe that comes up to the T

The T (photographed the wrong way up) showing the compression joint that will go to 22mm copper and the flexible hose going out to the regulator.

Pipe going off to the regulator.

All done in hydraulic standard pipijng and fittings so should be good for many years;

D

 

[brightspark]

what bore pipe to the blast pot >>and how long

 

[Dunny]

what bore pipe to the blast pot >>and how long

The hose tail is a 3/4 BSP to 18mm (so 15mm ish bore) onto a 15mm flexible hose direct to another hose tail on the pot. Hose will be circa 5m but I may have to go a bit longer.

Got 2 bike frames to do , and a bunch of other parts.

D

 

[brightspark]

just make sure the bore of pipe is no less than 15mm to the pot , any less and the difference in loss of - power is noticeable

 

[Dunny]

just make sure the bore of pipe is no less than 15mm to the pot , any less and the difference in loss of - power is noticeable

Will do.....once the pesky compressor is wired in, still waiting for a spark!!

D

 

[normspanners]

Check inside hydraulic fittings they are notorious for reducing the ID of fittings even though they are supposed to be the size stated they can be considerably smaller, especially on 90's reducing adapters etc, for air, you can drill out the adapters and still be way stronger than needed, I have done it on low pressure stuff IE inlet feeds to pumps etc they rely on the pressure to make the oil flow at it's stated flowrate, but with hydraulics to get that flowrate the small fittings heat the oil up. because the oil is just forced through.
but with air it just reduces the flow because you havnt got 3000psi to force it through.
also the hyraulic hose is say 1/2 ID the fitting they use is maybe down to 3/8 but when the ferrule it is crimped that reduces it even further, quite shockingly actually.

 

[Dunny]

Check inside hydraulic fittings they are notorious for reducing the ID of fittings even though they are supposed to be the size stated they can be considerably smaller, especially on 90's reducing adapters etc, for air, you can drill out the adapters and still be way stronger than needed, I have done it on low pressure stuff IE inlet feeds to pumps etc they rely on the pressure to make the oil flow at it's stated flowrate, but with hydraulics to get that flowrate the small fittings heat the oil up. because the oil is just forced through.
but with air it just reduces the flow because you havnt got 3000psi to force it through.
also the hyraulic hose is say 1/2 ID the fitting they use is maybe down to 3/8 but when the ferrule it is crimped that reduces it even further, quite shockingly actually.

As far as I can tell the inside bore is around 15mm of both the fittings and the pipe work. I am hoping with 36 CFM it should be ok for what I need but we will see.

D