Compressor tank end plug.

[VL1500]

Hi folks!

Got a problem! I need to remove the end plug from my compressor (SIP 06290 Airmate 3hp 150L SRB) tank. It won't b----y budge!!
The compressor is not an old one, it's like new, having been only used as a shop demonstration tank when I bought it.
It's a 1/2" screw thread (I think), and I went out and bought a 22mm. 1/2" drive socket which fits perfectly. All I've succeeded in doing after using the socket with a long bar, is rounding the nut completely. I then thought, Ahh! I'll leave the damn thing in (not that I've got any choice!) and take out the one on top of the tank instead. Yep! same result!! So I've now got 2 bungs with rounded nuts that won't shift.
Help! short of paying out millions of pounds for a new tank, anyone got any ideas?

Open for any suggestions, daft or otherwise!

Thanks,

Tony.

 

[Turbo]

They have probably been put in with green studlock. If so the only way to remove them is to apply some heat to soften the studlock. No need to get them red hot, just hot enough that you start to see some smoke/fumes then use a stilson to remove it.

An alternative way would be to weld a large nut to the bung, the heat should be enough to free it and it will give you somewhere to put a spanner.

 

[addjunkie]

First whyd you want them out?

I agree on a bit of heat. The hear will not only soften the sealant, but expand the threaded hole. If it fails, your into drilling! Or welding nuts on!

 

[rtbcomp]

I had a similar problem, heat from a propane torch softened the locking compound and they came out easily.

 

[Digger6135]

Bi hex sockets are a waste of time, buy hexagonal every time, Bi Hex are usless on anything tight.

Digger6135

 

[VL1500]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I don't need both out, I just need one out to connect my 22mm. Nylon Air line (John Guest) system with an adaptor straight into the end of the tank.
I'll try the heat first, then either have a go with a drill or weld a nut on.
If I can get them out I'll obviously have to replace the top plug with a new one. Is there anything I can do when fitting the new plug to make it non-un-getoutable in the future?

Much appreciate the suggestions!

Tony.

 

[rtbcomp]

Fit one with a tapered thread and wrap some PTFE tape round it. Don't overtighten it.

A picture of where it fits would help.

 

[addjunkie]

Only fit a tapered thread if the origional is tapered, use a quality sealant, swak, loctite 577 etc, most soften with a bit of heat if you want them out again in future.

 

[rtbcomp]

A tapered male will screw into a parallel female as long as you use tape, if you want to use a parallel plug then sealant is best.

The biggest problem is when you screw a male taper into an aluminium part, it's easy to split the ally.

 

[ukracer]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I don't need both out, I just need one out to connect my 22mm. Nylon Air line (John Guest) system with an adaptor straight into the end of the tank.
I'll try the heat first, then either have a go with a drill or weld a nut on.
If I can get them out I'll obviously have to replace the top plug with a new one. Is there anything I can do when fitting the new plug to make it non-un-getoutable in the future?

Much appreciate the suggestions!

Tony.

Bet that system is not cheap. Interestingly it seems to be based on water sizes with BSP adapters.

 

[ukracer]

It's nit cheap even from tool station . Lol



But assuming the thread on compressor is 3/4 bsp one of these will stop you splitting and ease of removal.

 

[normspanners]

To save damaging the paint why not try welding a large nut on to the plug put plenty of amps into it to penetrate the fitting well,then that will give you plenty of purchase because you could go up to 24mm or 27 mm the heat will help free rust /sealer etc and not damage the finish on the tank.

 

[grim_d]

Bi hex sockets are a waste of time, buy hexagonal every time, Bi Hex are usless on anything tight.

Digger6135

Not if your fasteners are bi hex they aint...

 

[normspanners]

Not if your fasteners are bi hex they aint...

Bi- hek's------ I think your rite

 

[dannyp]

recently i've been welding the sockets on ........ but i've got a supply of **** sockets from my early years of misguided tool buying and at least i can feel like i've got a use out them doing that.

 

[rtbcomp]

I had problems re-fitting them. They were sealed with a O-ring, but there was no groove for it to sit in, so when you tightened the plug it just pushed the O-ring out. I made a gasket and that solved that problem.

 

[Cobbler]

I struggled to get the end plug out of my tank, ended up drilling it through, then splitting it with a hacksaw blade. Even then it didn't want to come, had to cut it right across & take it out in two bits. Hacksaw blade broke when doing it, guess where it went, yes right first time, into the tank. Still in there, I couldn't get it out. Trying to unscrew it was deforming the tank end, I think I would have pulled the boss off before it would have come out!

 

[VL1500]

smee agen!

I tried heating it with a blow lamp but it wouldn't budge. Eventually I welded a 1/2" ring bolt (the ring sat nicely on the plug, and I didn't have to hold it to weld it) on it and used a long piece of steel pipe on the shaft of the bolt. Got the bu..er!!
So, I've just been screwing a 1/2" bsp lever valve into the tank where the plug was. I then fitted an elbow to the valve and switched on to see what happens. Air was rushing out from the elbow thread, so I gave it a bit more welly with the spanner.
Guess what? When I tried to turn the valve off to see if the leaks were cured, it wouldn't! It seems that tightening the elbow more has damaged the inside of the valve.
So I've now got to order another valve before I can do any more, and try to figure out why I couldn't stop air leaking from where the valve goes into the tank (in spite of winding it in with a dirty great ring spanner), and also where the elbow screws into the valve!

Any ideas folks?

 

[rtbcomp]

Use some PTFE tape or liquid thread sealer.

 

[Burdekin]

I now use Loctite 545 bought from eBay, it is excellent stuff. Use it on the threads and it won't leak, you can undo it and is suitable for air fed lines too.