Connecting Compressor to Fixed Pipes

[certain-death]

Hi,

I am looking at fitting fixed air pipes in my shed to try and help reduce water in the system. I have done a bit of research into this and believe I have a fair idea what needs to be done. I am looking at using 15mm copper pipe. I see that alot of people use flexible tap pipes to connect the compressor to the fixed lines to reduce the vibration into the fixed pipes.

The one question I have is how can I connect this to my compressor. I thought the obvious answer was to just connect the flexi hose to the output of my pressure switch/regulator using suitable adapters to drop the flexi down to 1/4BSP. However when I started to think more about it, I thought it seemed a bit pointless feeding 15mm pipe through a 1/4" hole.

I then recalled that my compressor has what looks like 1/2" BSP blanking plugs on each end of the tank. So can I blank the output from my pressure switch/regulator and then connect the flexi hose to one of these 1/2"BSP fittings on the end of the tank?

Heres a couple of pictures showing te pressure switch/regulator and the 1/2"BSP fittings on the tank.

Any help would be most appreciated

Thanks

Ian

 

[brightspark]

Hi,

I am looking at fitting fixed air pipes in my shed to try and help reduce water in the system. I have done a bit of research into this and believe I have a fair idea what needs to be done. I am looking at using 15mm copper pipe. I see that alot of people use flexible tap pipes to connect the compressor to the fixed lines to reduce the vibration into the fixed pipes.

The one question I have is how can I connect this to my compressor. I thought the obvious answer was to just connect the flexi hose to the output of my pressure switch/regulator using suitable adapters to drop the flexi down to 1/4BSP. However when I started to think more about it, I thought it seemed a bit pointless feeding 15mm pipe through a 1/4" hole.

I then recalled that my compressor has what looks like 1/2" BSP blanking plugs on each end of the tank. So can I blank the output from my pressure switch/regulator and then connect the flexi hose to one of these 1/2"BSP fittings on the end of the tank?

Heres a couple of pictures showing te pressure switch/regulator and the 1/2"BSP fittings on the tank.

Any help would be most appreciated

Thanks

Ian

keep the exising output on the regulator and fit a pcl quick coupling to it . tap off the main tank for your workshop piping . 22mm copper would be best no loss of cfm and better cooling . allthough half inch would be ok then fit filter regulators down the line and water traps. theres some ideas on here in older posts on setups to give u an idea , someone will find u them and post probably

 

[rtbcomp]

I'm not too sure about flexible tap pipes, they could suffer from oil contamination. I used a non-return valve designed for central heating and the rubber soon perished. Best use proper air line.

 

[normspanners]

You can connect to the 1/2 " plug female ports no problem but I would connect to a tee piece mounted vertically and then have the line for the main going up and then the other leg as large a dia as possible running down as far as it can and then end in a tap, so that any water that comes out of the receiver and into the pipe will condense in the copper and run down into the reservoir with the tap to drain it out.

 

[keithski122]

I've done this using the outlet on the end of the tank going into a flexi tap pipe then into 15mm copper pipe.All fittings I bought from toolstation.It goes halfway along the wall then up and down a bit with ball valves at the lower ends of the drops.At the far end I've fitted the regulator.Most joints are soldered plumber fittings.I'll try to get a photo tomorrow.You can just about see the drops in this pic.
ps. the regulator on my compressor packed up so I had to do it this way.

 

[chevy2]

I have a 25L compressor linked into a 200L slave tank but use the 1/2" lever valve on the end of the large for the outlet,

Only problem is it'll only flow as quick as the most restrictive part which is generally the inlet to the air tool but so long as your regulator is a similar size bore to your hard lines then the air tool fitting will be the only restriction and so the tools should run better,
If runnning more than one tool at a time then the bigger pipes will certainly help.

 

[Robotstar5]

I fitted a quick connector in place of the blanking plug, allows easy disconnection for servicing etc.

 

[Luke]

I've used a flexi tap connecting pipe for about 7 years now, between the end of the tank and 15mm copper. Has been ok so far.

 

[certain-death]

Hi,

Thanks for all the replies. The regulator thats on my compressor is pretty goosed (the knob is broken and has been replaced with a bolt) so not too worried about using it.

My plan is to remove that regulator and then blank off the port it used on the pressure switch. I would then run direct off the tank to 15mm pipe through a ball valve to allow isolation and a flexi pipe. This would then go to a tee with a drop trap for water collection. I would then run around the shed and have three outlets with quick connectors. (One at my bench, one at blast cabinet and one for a hose reel). I would have drops where needed to allow water collection and put a filter in aswell. I also planned to have regulators at each area to allow pressure regulation locally. Plan to use 15mm and 1/2BSP through the whole system so that the tools are the only restrictive part in flow.

Am I best to use a filter regulator at each station or will one filter before the outlets be enough to trap any water along with the drops?

Again thanks for the replies so far it is most appreciated

Ian

 

[chevy2]

A filter/regulator at each station will allow for differents pressures at each outlet,

If the budget and extra time involved allows then fit a large water trap filter near the compressor outlet will ensure drier air at each outlet.

 

[normspanners]

I have written this a few times on MW but your 'drops' should come from the top of the main and then turn down, the main which for the extra cost would be better in 22mm to slow the air flow and should be on a steady downward slope (>>>with the air flow) along its length and there should be a drop at the end of the main pipe that comes from the bottom (IE 90 deg) and goes down to a drain tap, doing it that way you dont really need water traps at each outlet because the whole system becomes a water trap. Any water that ends up in the pipe runs along the bottom of the main and ends up at the last drop that actually is a drain.

 

[MattF]

Norm's method is definitely best. Have U's exiting from the top of the main run. The water can't run up hill, so can't make it into the drop pipes. With that method and the fact that your main run will be sloping downwards, all moisture,(barring what little may condense out later), can only go to the end of the main pipe, whch is where you'll have your drain. Having drains on each drop leg too won't hurt though.

 

[keithski122]

Taken a while to do it but heres the pics of my set up.I used a quick disconnect fitting on the outlet of the tank.

 

[mylesdw]

Have any of you guys built a water based dryer?

I'm thinking of a vertical iron pipe about 2.5m tall. Near the bottom air comes in from the compressor; at the top air goes out and at the very bottom a drain.
Around this a larger bore pipe to form a water jacket. Cold water goes in at the bottom and is drained off at the top. You would only need to flow water through it when you wanted dry air for spraying or blasting.

Any thoughts?

 

[brightspark]

Have any of you guys built a water based dryer?

I'm thinking of a vertical iron pipe about 2.5m tall. Near the bottom air comes in from the compressor; at the top air goes out and at the very bottom a drain.
Around this a larger bore pipe to form a water jacket. Cold water goes in at the bottom and is drained off at the top. You would only need to flow water through it when you wanted dry air for spraying or blasting.

Any thoughts?

i just use an inline tank near the pot for cooling. if needed just run a hosepipe over it its portable as well for going ouside and blowing tires up

Have any of you guys built a water based dryer?

I'm thinking of a vertical iron pipe about 2.5m tall. Near the bottom air comes in from the compressor; at the top air goes out and at the very bottom a drain.
Around this a larger bore pipe to form a water jacket. Cold water goes in at the bottom and is drained off at the top. You would only need to flow water through it when you wanted dry air for spraying or blasting.

Any thoughts?

i just use a secondary cooling tank which works well .u could run cold water over it with a hose pipe for extra cooling if wanted ,

 

[delta9]

Taken a while to do it but heres the pics of my set up.I used a quick disconnect fitting on the outlet of the tank.

Cool setup, thanks for posting!
Sorry to dig up an old thread but how are you finding this setup? Any problems and anything you would change?

New to spraying (diy) planning on copying your design in the next few days, would prefer to setup this way as space is limited.

Thanks for any help