crushed glass grit size for 10 gallon pressurised pot

[optima21]

Hi guys,

I've ordered one of these

from here

http://www.martynsbargains.com/matt...ile-grit-blasting-pot-red-sand-blast-pot.html

as these are out of stock

http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/tools-eq...-sandblaster-auto-parts-cleaning-sandblasting

I've also read on here that I need to get a 3mm carbide nozzle from here

http://www.blastitclean.co.uk/page9.html

so now I need to order some crushed glass. Im already using 60 grit aluminium oxide in my small blasting cabinet, which I think equates to 0.25mm size grit. so am I best off buying 0.2 to 0.5mm grit, or 0.5 to 1.0mm grit for cleaning up rusty car parts?

and if anyone else is interested in my other purchases for this, see below :-

Ive already got a pop up beach hut to use a a temporary blast cabinet

https://www.olproshop.com/products/the-beach-hut-blue

shown here in my temporary garage

and Ive also bought a half face mask (would have bought a full face one, but my glasses get in the way of the seal

http://shop.protectivewearuk.com/p/51086/aviva-40-half-mask

to use P3 dust filters

http://shop.protectivewearuk.com/p/800/scott-pf10-din40-ffp3-particulate-filter

but also got some abek2p3 filters for spraying paint

http://shop.protectivewearuk.com/p/800/scott-pf10-din40-ffp3-particulate-filter

anyway enough of my buying history

 

[rtbcomp]

I used "Fine" as described by Stacey Processing - can't remember the grit size. I buy 2.5mm nozzles - if you want to use coarser grit just use a worn nozzle.

If you're blasting inside a confined space a dust mask will be no good - you need a proper blasting helmet fed from an outside source, something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2016-AIR-...ng-/302042300809?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

 

[Mee]

you need a proper blasting helmet fed from an outside source, something like this

Seconded.

 

[brightspark]

if your running the pot of the direct drive compressor u wont do it any favours running it for more than 15 mins flat out blasting it will overheat. it will barely run a 3mm nozzle. no chance of using an air fed helmet as it will take nearly a 14cfm pump to use it . best u can do is use the face mask and a pair of goggles over your specs

 

[Shox Dr]

Mod a snorkel with a bit of hose, and poke it out the tent

Best not make it too long eh

 

[rtbcomp]

I have a helmet similar to the one in the link. I feed it from a blower rather than the compressor via a length of vacuum cleaner hose.

 

[captain-destructo]

If you're blasting inside a confined space a dust mask will be no good - you need a proper blasting helmet fed from an outside source, something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2016-AIR-...ng-/302042300809?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

now on my watching page for when funds become available

 

[optima21]

thanks for the responses

I have a helmet similar to the one in the link. I feed it from a blower rather than the compressor via a length of vacuum cleaner hose.

might have to look into doing this

if your running the pot of the direct drive compressor u wont do it any favours running it for more than 15 mins flat out blasting it will overheat. it will barely run a 3mm nozzle. no chance of using an air fed helmet as it will take nearly a 14cfm pump to use it . best u can do is use the face mask and a pair of goggles over your specs

I've done it before with disposable masks and goggles, that is definately not to be recomended.

the half mask I got today does have a perfect seal around my face, so I'll see how I get on with that first.

I also got the blaster today and the top of the canister is different, the domed top has been inverted so there isnt any need for a funnel to fill it up with, just need to find a suitable sieve to sit on top of it to filter out the debris when reusing media

 

[brightspark]

u need 2 sieves one to remove the coarse debris and another to remove the fine dust off the broke down abrasive

 

[rtbcomp]

I got away without the fine sieve, but obviously got more dust when blasting. I made a motorised sieve.

That filling method is miles better than the screw cap, it's very similar to the pop-up valve found in professional pots.

 

[henry Kadzielski]

u need 2 sieves one to remove the coarse debris and another to remove the fine dust off the broke down abrasive

I second that. The blasting grit, dependent on type can be used several times if you like, however the buildup of contaminents will affect your visibility and the finished products. Out on site i don't reuse the spent media, generally garnet, however in the small blast cabinet I use plastic abrasive to clean up the airless paint pumps prior to rebuilding. The amount of dust / fines buildup slows down the blasting process and visibility is so poor even with dust extraction. I screen my plastic abrasive every 3 to 4 pumps and you can end up with 40% or 50% by weight of fines in the abrasive. Once the fines are removed visibility is greatly improved and the stripping of the paint from the pumps is also greatly improved.

 

[rtbcomp]

The biggest problem I found with the fine dust is that it sticks to the visor due to static, wiping it off scratches the visor more then new grit does by hitting it.

 

[Shox Dr]

Local blasters/powder coats use Garnet, says it still cuts down to dust so doesn't sieve. He blasts in a sea container, extraction pulls the dust out.

 

[rtbcomp]

You really need to sieve once to get the large flakes of paint, chunks of rust, nuts & bolts &c out of the media.

 

[Shox Dr]

You really need to sieve once to get the large flakes of paint, chunks of rust, nuts & bolts &c out of the media.

Agreed.

Bit different for them, you have all on holding on to the nozzle

 

[brightspark]

if u want consistency using expendable abrasive it can reasonably only be used twice .once new and once sieved otherwise u spend more time trying to regulate the inconsistent grit flow and blockages hurtling dust around and getting nowhere fast

 

[henry Kadzielski]

One last note.
Most people that do blasting know, but others might not is that your material, surface or job is badly contaminated and impregnated with dust, debris and general s#$t. This results in lower than expected adhesion of the paint and can also be a source for corrosion to start.
I blasted a boat inside the 'tiller' room (steering area). What a mess it turned out to be. The idea was to save the customer cost of abrasive and disposal costs. Never again. Couldn't stop the surface rusting, blasted it to shiny, next day rusty again. So finally blasted and painted it the same day, 6 months later paint is falling off and surface is rusty underneath. The entire job had to be done again the next year. So who saved money, wasn't me. Lesson learnt the hard way
Needless to say not all situations will lead to this happening, however bear in mind it could to a lesser extent

 

[brightspark]

just picking articles up u have just blasted leaves rust marks on in 5 minutes as recommended paint instantly

 

[henry Kadzielski]

just picking articles up u have just blasted leaves rust marks on in 5 minutes as recommended paint instantly

Good morning brightspark.
There is a product here and I expect also available in the UK called 'HoldTight 102'. It is used to hold the blast for a few days by removing the chlorides. It removes the salts that start the rusting process. It is diluted in water, is water soluble and leaves no residue. It is used in wet blasting to stop flash rusting. Anyway I have some, but not needed it yet, most of what I have done lately in blasted indoors and painted straight afterwoods. Much less stuffing around