cut through cab into box.

[qwakers]

whilst still being able to tilt....

can you think of a better way to do it that i can (answer: probably lol)

so my very basic bit of drawing...

when the cab tilts the red section will fold up and away, and the overlap should allow movement whilst still allowing me to put a (nice and pliable) seal in.

ive seen it done like this, it works, but there is probably a better way.

any of the good and great on here got any ideas?

thanks guys (and girls )

 

[jimbo84]

It's not too far away from what you've suggested but what about one of those springy rubber type efforts like they have between train carriages, if it was attached to the cab when the cab tilted the forward movement would move it away from the body, the spring/rubber seal of it would allow for movement between cab and body when driving.

Or just do what most body builders do and don't even think about how you're ever going to get to the engine again in the future

 

[Ruffian]

We did it just with a frame and a jumbo normal seal.

No need for the 2 interlocking frames. As the cab only goes up down really

 

[qwakers]

Or just do what most body builders do and don't even think about how you're ever going to get to the engine again in the future

well yeah, i could, but as its me that has to maintain it....

 

[jimbo84]

well yeah, i could, but as its me that has to maintain it....

View attachment 236752

 

[LiftedDisco]

Build the box fairly tight to the back of the cab with a removable panel in the cab-over section to allow for the tilt of the cab.

Then find the neoprene seal that is used for the bottom of a roller shutter - this is typically both quite wide and quite squishy so will deform to provide a robust seal between cab and (I take it...) the horse box element...

 

[qwakers]

this is a conversion so the box is already there. the gap cannot be made shorter, mostly because i want to be able to get to the gearbox if i need to

and no not horsebox. race lorry. same principle but a car goes in the back.

 

[hotponyshoes]

On horse boxes we put in 2 frames made from angle iron (or alloy)
Basically a couple of square/rectangles fixed to the cab and box and one fits into the other. One on the cab is the bigger one so the carpet/trim follows through from the living area so you don't notice the finishing trim at all.

A gutter is then fixed to the back of the cab (as this is the irregular face and can easily be permanently sealed, this has neoprean seal where it sits up against the flat face on the box, edge holding the seal is risen up 45deg and there is a further water deflector bonded to the box above the seal.
The cab gutter runs down the sides as well then has a water diffuser both sides (useful if you are sleeping anywhere near it)

If you are not making a fancy leather trimmed hatch or anything then you could just rubber mat it and not be so involved with the waterproofing.

 

[8ob]

I have never understood why they dont build these floats on a tipper chassis, access to everything with the flick of a button

Bob

 

[qwakers]

lol. weight.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Sometimes the layout allows for a fixed cab and cutting holes in the floor to put removable panels over to get enough access to do anything apart from major works.
If you need to get access to replace the piston liners or anything you may as well drop the engine out the bottom and fit a new one...

 

[LiftedDisco]

How about riv-nuts in the race car box, then make up a frame with rubber seal (per roller shutter suggestion above) so that the frame can be ‘extended’ to sit flush with the back of the cab at which point the frame is bolted into the riv-nuts to keep tight to the cab.

Then, in the event you need to get to the gearbox etc you could undo the frame, slide it backwards into the race car box and bob’s yer blooming uncle...

 

[qwakers]

you've got to remember that the cab is spring mounted and the box isnt, so a solid removable box isnt a option. otherwise #lifteddisco 's suggestion is a very good and easy way.....

 

[qwakers]

We did it just with a frame and a jumbo normal seal.

No need for the 2 interlocking frames. As the cab only goes up down really

remember the cab moves away from the box in a arc, so the bottom of the cab section would get closer to the box before moving away.

 

[Ruffian]

remember the cab moves away from the box in a arc, so the bottom of the cab section would get closer to the box before moving away.

We converted a renault Midlum box lorry into a race car transporter. And only had to extend the box forward with a basic tunnel as used I think 50mm box and then put the edge seal on the cab edge. Fitted fine and quiet as the jumbo seal had plenty of edge to seal on.

 

[8ob]

Bellows would be a proper job.

 

[qwakers]

possibly, but i would like it to be a hard surface on the inside. i suppose i could use bellows as the primary seal and clip in panels for the inside surface, nice and quick to remove for servicing...

 

[hillman]

Tried this a few years ago on a race truck. It was bloomin freezing as your cab heater is trying to heat the whole box. Stuck it out for a couple of events then boarded it back up. Have you got any heating in the rear?
Cheers Al.

 

[qwakers]

yup. 5kw's of diesel night heater, so no worries there. plus the cabs heater is a1 and i could always fit a door...

 

[hotponyshoes]

Thick curtains are easy to fit.
Keep the heat in/out nicely.

Get a racing car embroidered onto them and it will add a grand to the value of it. Well, works with horses anyway.