Cutting and welding solid axles to adjust diff & prop angles?

[rcx132]

My front axle comes from the factory with the front propshaft in "bridge" configuration, so the front of the diff is pointing towards the ground.

This won't work with the amount of suspension lift I'm doing, so the prop shaft needs to go into Z configuration.

Is there any issue in cutting the axle, rotating the diff/pumpkin in the middle, and rewelding, seeing as axles come from the factory made from multiple welded parts anyway.

I was going to get this done by a coded welder, I don't think my welds are good enough for crucial work. Or should this go to some kind of specialist?

With rear axles I used to just rotate the whole axle and then move the spring saddles. But that won't work at the front as it will mess up the caster geometry.

 

[Melvyn Best]

The air cooled VW guys lower the front suspension by the same method . Biggest problem I’d have thought is getting each side the same?

 

[pressbrake1]

What front axle is it?

 

[CompoSimmonite]

What I've seen done (on-line) is the outer flanges cut off, the old / welded material machined off in lathe and then everything put in a jig before being rewelded. The axle tubes go inside the flanges hence the old needing to be removed. Not sure I'd be happy with just cutting and welding the tube to the pumpkin. What about cutting the tubes half way between the pumpkin and flange then sleeving with suitable sized tube to reinforce the join ?

 

[pressbrake1]

I’ve done it before, but I have a large lathe so I can machine it apart

 

[rcx132]

What front axle is it?

Suzuki Samurai. It's for a buggy project. I wanted light weight.

 

[pressbrake1]

I can’t remember how the swivels are attached

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I’ve done it before, but I have a large lathe so I can machine it apart

Exactly. That is what I was trying to say in that it'd need machining to do a proper job and not just cutting then rewelding.

 

[Luke]

You at least need a jig to keep everything true.

Are you trying to get it road legal or just for offroad?

 

[rcx132]

You at least need a jig to keep everything true.

Are you trying to get it road legal or just for offroad?

I'm trying hard to get it comply with rules to pass IVA and be road legal.

Ok, sounds like a specialist job then. Anyone know anyone? Would the kind of shops that do propshafts be able to do this?

 

[armalites]

Have a watch of these videos about narrowing a Ford axle, the principles won't be much different if you are just rotating the diff. Jigging it up shouldn't be too much of an issue as long as you are working on a completely level bench as you can set a level on each end of the axle to make sure nothing changes.

 

[pressbrake1]

I'm trying hard to get it comply with rules to pass IVA and be road legal.

Ok, sounds like a specialist job then. Anyone know anyone? Would the kind of shops that do propshafts be able to do this?

I have done them and can do it again. I cannot recall the Suzuki swivel ends so need a picture

 

[rcx132]

I have done them and can do it again. I cannot recall the Suzuki swivel ends so need a picture

I'll sort a picture tomorrow You're not too far. I've spent the evening starting to figure out if my sump will clear. Still have a bit of jigging around before my geometry is all figured out. Though the axle geometry shouldn't change as it has to be the same as the engine and transferbox inclination and that's set by the chassis.

Have a watch of these videos about narrowing a Ford axle, the principles won't be much different if you are just rotating the diff. Jigging it up shouldn't be too much of an issue as long as you are working on a completely level bench as you can set a level on each end of the axle to make sure nothing changes.

Neat video, though did it only show him doing the welding? I couldn't find the bit where he did any cutting.

 

[pressbrake1]

Driveline kinematic is very important

 

[rcx132]

I cannot recall the Suzuki swivel ends so need a picture

 

[pressbrake1]

Looks like a nice visible weld to machine out

 

[armalites]

I'll sort a picture tomorrow You're not too far. I've spent the evening starting to figure out if my sump will clear. Still have a bit of jigging around before my geometry is all figured out. Though the axle geometry shouldn't change as it has to be the same as the engine and transferbox inclination and that's set by the chassis.

Neat video, though did it only show him doing the welding? I couldn't find the bit where he did any cutting.

I 've watched them before but I only did a quick search. He does a complete step by step with all the cutting and measurinbg in one of the videos. On those axels what he does is measure/cut them so he can use two short halfshafts.That video is only part 1

 

[rcx132]

Thanks for all the help. @pressbrake1, I look forward to meeting No rush I hope as I still need to figure out a couple of things, like checking what angle the axle was in on the donor car as something in my measurements is not adding up correctly.

 

[Slowcoach]

He does the rest in part two. I’m a bit surprised he didn’t jig the casing better when he welded it back together.

 

[Morrisman]

You have to keep the diff flange alignment with the gearbox output, or you will get a lot of prop shaft vibration. I don’t think simply pointing the diff upwards is the answer.