Damaged internal hex

[grim_d]

Wanted to changed the blade of my new panel saw this morning but unfortunately the Arbor nut was ungodly tight, the 8mm internal hex slipped and chewed before I could release the nut.

Eventually had to resort to an impact gun which got it off.

So whilst I can rattle it off and hold the blade to tighten it up I would like to implement a better long term solution.

My initial thoughts are to epoxy in a piece of 8mm hex key turning it into an external hex but I thought I'd come to the hive mind to see if there might be a better solution?

 

[Brad93]

Wanted to changed the blade of my new panel saw this morning but unfortunately the Arbor nut was ungodly tight, the 8mm internal hex slipped and chewed before I could release the nut.

Eventually had to resort to an impact gun which got it off.

So whilst I can rattle it off and hold the blade to tighten it up I would like to implement a better long term solution.

My initial thoughts are to epoxy in a piece of 8mm hex key turning it into an external hex but I thought I'd come to the hive mind to see if there might be a better solution?

View attachment 474973

Weld a hex to it

 

[Fazerruss]

As Brad said weld it but if you can't do that then drill a hole down the centre and tap it then screw in a cap head bolt.
To lock the cap head in position thread lock may work or cross drill a small hole and fir a small dowel pin

 

[Pete.]

Smack a Torx bit into the mullered hex and use a Torx from now on.

 

[Kram]

8mm internal hex is on the shaft? Is it removable?

The fact it has chewed up implies a soft metal or a 8.8 or lesser grade, if you do a repair using an existing hex I suggest taking a 12.9 cap head or 14.9 grub screw hex as they will not chew, even after annealing/welding in my experience - those grades usually are a better chome alloy steel like en24.