Die grinder.

[rambo]

Hi chaps.
Been working on old land rovers for years as a hobby, become quite good at welding, and normally use an angle grinder to smooth back the welds.

Sometimes it's hard getting the angle grinder in to grind the welds down, so been thinking about a 90 degree die grinder, I have a 50 litre compressor.
Any reccomendations?
Also, what type of wheels to use with it.
Cheers.

 

[MetalMonkey]

I've had good luck with CP die grinders, IR ones also have a good reputation- more expensive ones are available but it is a big step up in price for Desoutter and the like.
Even the cheapy ones are going to be fine for hobby use. They all do suck a lot of air, so make sure you have the compressor to run them.

Carbide burr is usually what I use with them, however this will generate 11 million tiny razor sharp needles which will impale themselves into everything - so be prepared for that and eye protection is an absolute must.
Generally it is a tool of last resort for this reason, but when you need it, you need it.

 

[mike 109444]

Look also at a power file.

 

[tom2207]

universal tools are good ,, buy quality burrs and abrasives , cheap ones are no use at all , small air tools use lots and lots of air , but they are handy ,\ remember they run fast and dont be tempted to run them slow or they dont work and get real nasty real quick , and good ppe is a must , a visor works well and wear good leather gloves ..

 

[fizzy]

Look also at a power file.

Definitely. My Black and Decker powerfile gets loads of use. Use good quality blue belts - removes material pretty quickly.

 

[Trevorleach]

I think you will struggle with a small compressor, great tools but very air hungry, the 90 degree bit seriously limits access, and as said the shards are amazingly sharp.
The milwaukee m12 cordless ones are good.

 

[Jack_K]

I'd get a 10mm belt sander ("Power file") and a 50mm roloc sander.

I rarely use a die grinder, the roloc sander is what I use the most.

 

[GRW]

I got a Black & Decker Powerfile after good advice off the good folks on here.
Brilliant useful bit of kit.
I do have a die grinder, but it's a corded straight "pen" type 230v one.
No way IMO will a 50L keep up with an air die grinder - my 100L belt drive one wouldn't, I doubt my 52yo old 150L IR30 comp would either.
My thing with die grinder & carbide burr - is they really need hanging onto - the burr can catch/dig in on any high point and "kick" like a mule - which can do damage you didn't want (to you or the piece).

 

[oldbikedavey]

Very handy for removing ancient gunge when armed with a decarbonising pencil brush, and used in conjunction with a parts washer.
Brilliant, in fact....

 

[Keithmac]

I have a Snap-on air die grinder, a straight M12 Milwaukee and an angled M12 for Roloc disks.

The M12s get used most often but the Snap-on (1/4 or 1/2 HP), still comes out when there is a lit of metal to shift.

The dies / bits are as important as the tool, not cheap for a good set.

 

[SierraV6]

I have a Snap-on air die grinder, a straight M12 Milwaukee and an angled M12 for Roloc disks.

The M12s get used most often but the Snap-on (1/4 or 1/2 HP), still comes out when there is a lit of metal to shift.

The dies / bits are as important as the tool, not cheap for a good set.

I’ve found it better to buy what you need individually. Dormer etc. can be found at a good price this way from the likes of Zoro.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

I would suggest a corded die-grinder over an air one with that size of compressor, you'll forever be waiting for the compressor to catch up.

I use a Hitachi 110V die grinder with burrs for exactly the kind of tasks you're talking about and it's great.

 

[Pond frog]

I have a makita corded die grinder it’s very effective and with a decent burr will remove material really fast, but and it’s a very big but it’s vile to use I only get it out when I’ve tried every other option.
It flings tiny razor shards in every direction and has a tendency to grab if you are using it in narrow gap you could find it ricocheting off all sides.
I once used it wearing a fleece jacket, that was a huge mistake the little shards really imbedded themselves into the fabric and were virtually impossible to remove.

Having said all that when nothing else will do it can be really great tool and I certainly wouldn’t get rid of it

 

[Redsailor]

Good advice from all above, the air grinder will gobble air no end! I have a straight type Hitachi 240v one and had to use it recently to undo some welds on a press frame that even a small angle grinder would not reach. Used a combination of carbide burrs and a small grinding point. You can get small wheels or points in a variety of shapes, the grit points are easier to handle as without a very firm hold the burrs will bounce around all over the place.

 

[Ton-up]

I use a straight and 90deg Kobe ones bought from Cromwell Tools. They have been very good.
I would recommend, for home use, a 240V Bosch GGS 28. there are others with extended noses. Not cheap but worth it!!

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I had a 240v Makita die grinder but I switched to an 18v DeWalt...the Makita was scary to use.

I only ever use the DeWalt when a grinder or my power file can't be used. Die grinders get the job done fine but I find them awful to use...sharp shards flying everywhere so face shield is essential.

 

[fizzy]

One good thing about air tools is they never overheat. Opposite in fact.
I have a nice air die grinder but it doesn't get used very often.
My air drill is about the same power as a good 18v battery drill but is smaller so gets closer to edges. Also never gets warm.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

the grit points are easier to handle as without a very firm hold the burrs will bounce around all over the place.

Putting up with the burrs totally worth it for speed of metal removal though.

I found that a good two handed grip and some care about my direction of travel was enough to avoid it running away when making lighter cuts.

For heavy cuts, I found getting a firm grip that let me lever the extended nose in my left hand, using the length of the tool body with my right hand further back, and keeping my elbows into my torso controlling the movement by moving my whole upper body let me effectively prevent bouncing and just hog material away with a double cut burr.

 

[rambo]

Cheers guys.
I have a powerfile-good bit of kit.

Any reccomendations on roloc discs/kit.
Loads on ebay to choose from.