Emco V10 and Warco WM15

[ben8vgte]

Got the new toy back today, not without some faults but should be serviceable for what I need to do with it. But is a 100% better than the old lathe I had a few years back (very worn out Empire Mk2), certainly more usable than my Dad's Drummond round bed I have been using recently.

So put up a quick table out of a old fire rated door with some box section along the top of the saw horse's..

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

With some help it went in the van in one piece, but I stripped it down when home to inspect the inside's.

One of the gears in here has some damaged teeth, spares might be hard to get. But I might have go at some if I get a dividing head, I can use the mill for gear cutting then. But the teeth still mesh ok so at least it can be used.


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Needs a good clean in the screw cutting gearbox, it's a imperial setup. But I believe you can get a different quadrant and drive gear to allow it to be metric.


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

The geared head is thankfully in very good condition, the fibre drives gears are good as are the selectors. They are normally damaged by heavy handed use, you need to make sure it comes to a full stop before changing gear.


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

The bad bits..
Some damage to the bed, has been chopped to allow a bigger swing. Not the end of the world as the carriage does not need to go this far anyhow.

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Some other damage to the bed, it should be out of the way for what I need and I think the carriage will float over it ok. Thinking about building it back up with nickel rods and scraping it back down, but I don't want to make it worse.. Though my old old lathe I used to have had been repaired out the factory like that due to a void in the casting, will give this much thought before trying this if I do.


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

CD for scale..


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

The tail stock has been modded for a quick release, looks to be a good job


Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

The plan is to just get it serviced and setup and have a play with it for a while, before stripping it down for a bit of a quick resto when I have more time. I understand there is a universal quadrant to allow metric screw cutting on a imperial box, I might have to look into this and see if something can be made..

 

[ben8vgte]

This bring's me to the mill I picked up off here from a member, again should do the job for me very well as my first mill.

So with that I had some Kee Klamps kicking around and made a qick frame up the added a old piece of counter top on as a stand.


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

With some help on the safety rope and much swearing it went together ok.


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Drilled and helicoiled the down feed bit to M10 as the knob was missing and the thread looked a little worn. I just stuck in a bolt for now, but when the lathes up and running first job is a new knob.

Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then could not get it to start without a push, so ordered a new british made start cap. Still no joy, so adjusted the switch instead Doh! Oh well at least it has a good cap on now.


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

The belt rubs in the slowest speed? Might need a different belt perhaps and bit of adjusting?


Warco WM15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

I will need to do few bits to it really, I need to make a tramming gauge and get it setup as best I can really. Then have a play with it and see what needs doing, though I may pull the quill out and see if it can be opened out to M12 soonish for better choice of tooling. Though I do need to get a collet holder quite soon to start using it really, I did have a little 'mill' with it the other night. Just used my old MT3 Jacobs, has miles of runout though and no draw bar so fell out

Then when I have more free time strip it down and repaint, also after some practice of other bits first I'd like to carry on the hand scraping Pete started with it.

 

[ben8vgte]

I got on with the maximat a little bit done, just stripping most of it down to clean and inspect.

This roll pin was well stuck..

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

I had to tig a bolt to it to get a good purchase and the slide hammer it off.

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then the top slide mounting ring/angle gauge was a little bent from over tightening so I pressed it back into shape.

Emco V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

I also had a little go at hand scraping on some old parallels I had that had been rattling around in a tool box for too long, it's quite good fun but takes a long time!

So looking at the top slide mount it looked a little rough and check with the DTI showed a 2thou slope to one side.

Emco V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

The blue showed the problems

Emco V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then it was a case of scrape, blue, scrape dit ect ect..

Emco V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Emco V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Should be little bit better, I think with this it might be easy to get carried away. But this should do, just the top side to square up to the bottom now. It does dti out better now anyhow.

Emco V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

 

[ben8vgte]

This afternoon feeling the need to do something, I pulled the quill out the mill. For 2 things that needed doing, first was to clean all the dry grease out as it was very stiff to use. Was more like tar than grease


Warco WM-15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then the other job was to open out the quill to take a M12 draw bar, it's made for a 3/8"BSW but a M10 fits. So I made up a extra long 11.8mm drill and a extra long 1/2" reamer, the end of the reamer was ground more like a drill bit to aid going in. Both were tigged onto some MS 10mm bar and with a very slow speed and plenty of rolco it went well but slowly. The air drill is a high torque 150rpm max one..


Warco WM-15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

 

[Pete.]

Nice job on the quill. Is there plenty of meat left on it at the bottom of the spline grooves?

 

[ben8vgte]

Should be just enough I hope as long as I don't do anything silly, I will leave the belt a little slack in case I jam it up I think. I did also lap the grooved parts together as they were stiff to slide, but the grooves are a lot deeper than they need to be unfortunately. Must admit it's very soft steel indeed.

 

[hareng]

Just got rid of the Clark branded one 3hrs ago, never used for last 9 years. Just kept it as a backup, you never know plus it was one accurate machine and ultra quiet.
1hp Machine Mart motor transformed it, they wanted £260 13 years ago for an inferior original.

Wouldn't bother cleaning the bearings, theyre Chinese replace them with decent ones whilst out. Its one of the weak spots on all Chinese stuff.
Will be an off the shelf catalogued bearings.

Went with three drawbars M12, 3/8" BSW and M10 didn't have to open up spindle 14 years ago.
Gave him the spare MT3 collets and clamping.

Check the leadscrews and more so the nuts, guarantee theyre worn if not stripped.

 

[Pete.]

Screws and nuts are in really nice nick. I'd be tempted to do an acetal nut conversion and keep the leadscrews in near perfect condition forever. I'm surprised the yingtong's haven't started using acetal for all their leadscrew nuts, it does a really nice job. doesn't wear, no backlash and has got to be easier to make than than from brass/bronze.

 

[ben8vgte]

Just got rid of the Clark branded one 3hrs ago, never used for last 9 years. Just kept it as a backup, you never know plus it was one accurate machine and ultra quiet.
1hp Machine Mart motor transformed it, they wanted £260 13 years ago for an inferior original.

Wouldn't bother cleaning the bearings, theyre Chinese replace them with decent ones whilst out. Its one of the weak spots on all Chinese stuff.
Will be an off the shelf catalogued bearings.

Went with three drawbars M12, 3/8" BSW and M10 didn't have to open up spindle 14 years ago.
Gave him the spare MT3 collets and clamping.

Check the leadscrews and more so the nuts, guarantee theyre worn if not stripped.

Yeah it's not really done anywork, nuts are very good. Just not very well made. I've noted down the bearing sizes but just cleaned them out as I don't want to spend any money on it till it's had some use, if it's all good then it's a quick job to pull it down and change them and give the whole thing a coat of paint ect. Already has a 1hp motor that seems ok so that can stay for now

Screws and nuts are in really nice nick. I'd be tempted to do an acetal nut conversion and keep the leadscrews in near perfect condition forever. I'm surprised the yingtong's haven't started using acetal for all their leadscrew nuts, it does a really nice job. doesn't wear, no backlash and has got to be easier to make than than from brass/bronze.

Now there's an idea, would be a good reason to do screw cutting practice with the lathe as well I have Acetal bushes in my cars rear beam, need to order some more to make another set for the other car anyhow.

 

[Pete.]

Do it the easy way

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way

 

[ben8vgte]

Do it the easy way

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way

Perfect thanks

Bookmarked that page !

 

[ben8vgte]

With the lathe up and running meant I could finish up the last job for the mill. I also have some MT3 collets for the mill now too so I can start using it happy days I'd still rather have a collet chuck for the mill but until I decide what I'm doing for a collect chuck on the lathe I'm holding off, I'd just rather buy one set of ER collets..

Also picked this up the other night from a very nice guy who used to be a toolmaker at Lesney products (Matchbox toys), he gave the me the adjustable angle plate (Eclipse) as well I had a few other bits as well off him and he chucked in a load of milling cutters, all Clarkson and in good condition.


Abwood vice by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

I stripped it down that down and dropped it in some rust remover over night ready for today.

But first thing today I got on with the mill, I had to make up some spacer's for the gib adjuster screws as they are a very poor fit indeed!


Warco Wm15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

I was quite happy with how accurate the lathe cuts, the dial's on the cross and top slide do what they say!


Warco Wm15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

With the spacers on.


Warco Wm15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then I squared up the holes with a file and made the heads a nice tight fit.


Warco Wm15 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Next was the vice, so pulled that out of the dip the scrubbed then clean and dried in the oven. I then masked up the mating surfaces and grit blasted all the old paint and filler spooge off but forgot to take a pic of that.


Abwood vice by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then a couple of coats of Jotun 87 epoxy mastic, first coat went on and as it was tacky I stippled on a second one to give a rippled surface as it's over a roughish casting..


Abwood vice by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Just need to clean up the bare metal fully with a red scotch and wd40 before oiling and putting back together.

 

[ben8vgte]

Done


Abwood vice by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

 

[ben8vgte]

Not much going on since I damaged my shoulder at work a while back, has hindered doing any GTE welding

But today managed to get a pair of my stack of new grinding wheels setup and on the bench grinder, they were running a little off so a new center was made up and pressed in. Then I set the wheel up with a DTI on the lathe faceplate and just turned it over by hand as I wound a reamer in carefully, they now run true


Grinding wheel by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr
Then picked this up cheap, though was a little bigger than I thought ! But should be fine horizontal on the mill, just a bit too tall upright but a rotary table will be fine for that. Might need a bigger mill in future anyhow...

It had no chuck but has a faceplate which was well stuck, but I'm looking into a way to mount up my Emco chucks. I think it's a MT4 center bore so that might be the way to go..


Victoria universal dividing head by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr


Victoria universal dividing head by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Then to get the face plate off I had to strip it down and use a 4ft steel bar and the oxy propane, using that much leverage I was worried about damaging the gears inside. I can also clean and relube it now after some paint and polishing up.



Victoria universal dividing head by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr



Victoria universal dividing head by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

 

[ben8vgte]

Time for an update as I've been using the V10 and collecting parts for a better motor drive and the table I made had been sitting around for a while till some free time came up.

So the old 1/2hp motor just screwed down to the table as it came to me, the pulley drive speeds were a way off and the slowest I could get was 78rpm from the gearbox. The lead screw drive was off since I got it as well due to the shear pins being replaced with roll pins then sheared off and having a drill bit snapped off in each one.

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

So with all that in mind over the last year as parts came up cheap I collected them, I was going to make some drive pulleys but a pair of Myford ones came up that take a poly V belt cheaper than I could get the stock to make some and a bigger 1hp motor was the final piece. As the space on the headstock area was quite tight I went for a toothed HTD5 belt as I did not want it to slip like the one it came with, I believe they used that as standard anyhow and the poly V part can be allowed to slip to protect the machine if I muck up. Also picked up a NVR switch and the rev counter might go on this or indeed the mill.

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Had to bore out the pulleys and add a keyway into them, I decided to use silver steel for the counter shaft as it makes life easier.

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

Still a few little bits to do but like most of my projects I get to the point where I can use it and will come back to it later on, the tray (recycled shelf) under the lathe still needs painting as does the new motor mount. That and I need to pick up some ply for the bottom shelf, but that will probably take another year or so

At least it goes down to 30rpm now in the slowest setting and with the shear pins finally removed by stripping it down and tigging a piece of wire to them I can start screw cutting.

Emco Maximat V10 by ben a.k.a me, on Flickr

 

[penfold]

Emcos are nice, well made machines.